First build at a higher budget

i2ain2thunder
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Veteran
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st paul, mn
Just finialized purchase of an 04 Cavalier Coupe LS. Already have the amps MA audio HK602sx (3600watt rms 2 channel) and an M489I (800watt rms 4 channel). Subs: new pair of good ole alpine type R 12s 2ohm dvc. Components: prob coulda done better here but looking for easy fit. Clarion SRP4620 4x6 components. and Eclipse SC6900 6x9 components. The subs are going into my WO32 which i'm praying will fit easily into the trunk of that coupe. If all goes well on the title transfer and insurance enrollment I hope to start installation this weekend. Hoping for a super clear tight system, if I hear distortion or vibration when all is said and done I'm gonna be in a bad ******* mood next week. Wish me luck, or comment on how much you love/hate my setup so far.

Head Unit: Panasonic CQ-C8305

Front speakers: Clarion SRP4620M

Rear Speakers: Eclipse SC6900

Subwoofer x2: Apline Type R 1223D

Sub Amp: MA Audio HK602SX

Speaker Amp: MA Audio M489I

Sub Enclosure: Wicked One 12" model

Future upgrades: I'm thinking sometime in the future of getting a second battery and upgraded alternator. Once that is done I might feel comfortable doing some double 1/0 runs and powering 6 type Rs off the HK602SX. At that point the trunk will become the enclosure.

Budget so far

Head unit 120$

Front speakers 70$

Rear speakers 80$

Sub Woofers 240$

Enclosure mats 40$

Power RCA and Big 3 wires 135$

Amp HK602SX 380$

Amp M489I 100$

Fatmat dynamat 130$

wiring harness/install gear 150$

Total budget so far=1445$

 
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i2ain2thunder


i2ain2thunder


 
Ok so clearly I could use a hand uploading some pics. I have some on photobucket but having issues inserting them. if anyone wants to give me a walk through I could post some pics of the system so far.

 
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Nevermind I seem to have fixed the problems //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Good luck with the vibrations. You better put some time into the sound dampening. I have one for the daily commute. Two high powered 12's I run is alot for this tin cup.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif...

 
Well I'll just cross my fingers I'm gonna cake the trunk in Fatmat and do what I can, I've always had rattles in previous systems though and they tick me off, sounds ghetto with them. We'll see, I'll be posting lots more pics through this weekend and if I get it all installed maybe even a Vid. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
Well, some advice I can give is this. You may consider removing the third brake light assembly from the rear deck or insulating it from the window glass. Insulate the ***** outta the trunk lid, because the sheet metal itself, especially around the top corners will create audible vibration. Don't bother buying new components for the rear speakers. Just use them to fill in dead areas. Go +5 or so to the fronts. Your subs will mud up most of the low end coming out of the rears. Find the air vent behind the carpet in passenger side trunk area and do something with that to insulate the rubber flaps. That thing will sing like a freakin whoopy cushion when it gets vibrating. Lastly, I never had a problem with the power draw with two 400rms 12" subs @ 1000watts, but my single 10" 600rms sub @ 1000 watts will start dimming the lights, because I have to feed it more power to get more bass. Just to give you an idea of what the stock electric (with big 3) can handle.

Peace,

Andy

 
Thanks for the Advice. Insulating the rear deck and trunk lid are my 2 top priorities for insulation. Haha I found that same air vent in my previous car, yeah those things sing loud I just took it out of my last ride but inulating will be a better option this time around. The rear 6x9s will be sealed in their own boxes so that should keep them from trying to compete with the Subs. As for the electrical...well I do plan to replace the stock soon. First order of business I'm gonna pick up a yellow top, then I'll be looking to upgrade the alternator. I'm open to suggestion there, I want one that will fit easily, but I think i'm gonna want 300amps if they even make one that hefty for a cavy motor. The only one the local auto store carried was a 150amp which I thought was pretty weak.

 
It's been a while but I'm back. That first weekend went bad and I had some setbacks including a cut in the surround of one of the 6x9woofers. I also wanted the full 0gauge to reach my sub amp, however the fused distro block only had ogauge input and 2 4gauge outputs, so I had to buy a Reducer. I also made a newb mistake, I got the wrong impedance subs!!!! My friend brought forth the point that I need dual 4 ohms not dual 2s. So the project got set back untill I could get in new stuff. So the fatefull day finally came yesterday. I had some new better rated fuses for the distro block and the main fuse on the power line. I got a gold plated Reducer from 0gauge to 4gauge. I repaired the cut in the surround of the 6x9 woofer. I got 2 brand new 4ohm DVC Alpine Type R 600watt RMS 12 inch subs. I threw all the stuff together put the subs in the box, mounted and finished wiring the amps last night, ******* hurray BASS! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

Pics to follow.

 
just curious... but is that ma amp a d class, or a/b? and what are the ACTUAL specs on it (they always say "this many watts" ... but until i see certain watts at certain impendance, i dont tend to believe it) ... setup looks good so far tho

 
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i2ain2thunder

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