Actually as of right now it sounds really good rattles don't seem to exist vibrations yeah theres those lolBro you gonna have vibration sorry to tell you NOTHING can stop it!!! lol
Thanks. That is a Class D based off the specs where I bought it however I'm sceptical that i could be an A/B it has 6 40amp fuses so the 3600watts RMS is pretty legit actually.just curious... but is that ma amp a d class, or a/b? and what are the ACTUAL specs on it (they always say "this many watts" ... but until i see certain watts at certain impendance, i dont tend to believe it) ... setup looks good so far tho
I'm actually trying to sell the Dual 2s on this forum. My buddy is going to put the post up because he has a much older account. I'd link it but I don't think he's set it up yet. Thanks for asking and yeah LESSON LEARNED.so what did you do with the dual 2s? and uhh, watch those impedances.
I Hope it doesn't //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif I have them wired Parallel to each channel at 2ohms. which per the specs that amp performs at 700watts per channel at 2ohms. The subs are rated for 600 watts but I've seen ppl run type Rs at 1000 watts IDK I think they'll hold up, specially cuz its so loud right now I cruze with the gain at about 25%Your going to kill those R's pretty quick with that amp unless you are not trying to use all the power(with out upgraded electrical that is my guess).
Buy a Deka or two and toss them in the back. Cheap and well worth the money.I'm looking into options for a high output alternator, my engine the 2.2L ecotech is very limited for high output options that will fit in the stock spot. My next purchase will be a Yellow Top.
Someone correct me please on this. But from what I heard the amps output rms will be no more than what the onboard fuse multiplied by 10.Thanks. That is a Class D based off the specs where I bought it however I'm sceptical that i could be an A/B it has 6 40amp fuses so the 3600watts RMS is pretty legit actually.