First build at a higher budget

[JL Audio 5,000+ posts]

that amp is a current hog, just a heads up.

 

[mast240 10+ year member]

Thanks. That is a Class D based off the specs where I bought it however I'm sceptical that i could be an A/B it has 6 40amp fuses so the 3600watts RMS is pretty legit actually.

Someone correct me please on this. But from what I heard the amps output rms will be no more than what the onboard fuse multiplied by 10.

So in this case at 6*40amp fuses is 240. 240*10=2400w rms. Please someone tell me I'm right/wrong. It sounds crazy but that's what I got told when I asked a local shop to clamp my kx2500

its not an exact match up like that.... but thats a general rule to guestimate around how many watts an amp will put out.... but it depends on the amp, the class, the impedance, etc.....

 

[i2ain2thunder 10+ year member]

Thanks. That is a Class D based off the specs where I bought it however I'm sceptical that i could be an A/B it has 6 40amp fuses so the 3600watts RMS is pretty legit actually.

Someone correct me please on this. But from what I heard the amps output rms will be no more than what the onboard fuse multiplied by 10.

So in this case at 6*40amp fuses is 240. 240*10=2400w rms. Please someone tell me I'm right/wrong. It sounds crazy but that's what I got told when I asked a local shop to clamp my kx2500

Well I guess I didn't specify, what I meant by its legit was that I thought MA Audio rated it legitly. Ratings on amps very based on how the company chooses to test them within certain parameters. Some places jack the amps to the point where they are smoking while burping 1 note for a fraction of a second. What you wind up with there is someone advertising 4000 watts when the amp really prob only does like 400 watts rms. The best way to tell how an amp will perform is to look at the fuse rating. MA Audio put in 6x40amp fuses there for if they tested it at 15.0 volts thats exactly correct. If you notice my voltage on the amp in the above picture I believe it is at like 15.0 thats the reason I say it is legit. Do I think it will output 3600watts rms? Hell no they never do what they are rated from a lab test while playing music, however the fact that they didn't overrate the amp makes me think it will perform close to that hence I usually chose an amp to be rms rated around 100watts more then the subs are rated for, simply because they never perform what they are rated for.

 

[wickedwitt 10+ year member]

Bro you gonna have vibration sorry to tell you NOTHING can stop it!!! lol

Lead plate+welder:naughty:

 

[wickedwitt 10+ year member]

Someone correct me please on this. But from what I heard the amps output rms will be no more than what the onboard fuse multiplied by 10.
So in this case at 6*40amp fuses is 240. 240*10=2400w rms. Please someone tell me I'm right/wrong. It sounds crazy but that's what I got told when I asked a local shop to clamp my kx2500

Well I guess I didn't specify, what I meant by its legit was that I thought MA Audio rated it legitly. Ratings on amps very based on how the company chooses to test them within certain parameters. Some places jack the amps to the point where they are smoking while burping 1 note for a fraction of a second. What you wind up with there is someone advertising 4000 watts when the amp really prob only does like 400 watts rms. The best way to tell how an amp will perform is to look at the fuse rating. MA Audio put in 6x40amp fuses there for if they tested it at 15.0 volts thats exactly correct. If you notice my voltage on the amp in the above picture I believe it is at like 15.0 thats the reason I say it is legit. Do I think it will output 3600watts rms? Hell no they never do what they are rated from a lab test while playing music, however the fact that they didn't overrate the amp makes me think it will perform close to that hence I usually chose an amp to be rms rated around 100watts more then the subs are rated for, simply because they never perform what they are rated for.

That fuse rating is a pretty legit way to compare amps. You will get a bit further as you should always be above 10v, but with heat and power loss due to heat, the fuse amp rating x 10 is a good way to figure.

 

[i2ain2thunder 10+ year member]

Oh yeah not to mean fusex10 isn't a good way to guestimate. Yeah thats about how you should look at it, depends on electrical and everything too. Right now I'm lacking heavily in the electrical department but that will get upgraded here eventually, I definitely have headlight dimming at stops. My first day even riding it to work I hope I'm not discharging so much that my car doesn't start when i get out there lol.

 

[i2ain2thunder 10+ year member]

I still can't believe I fit that box in that trunk its almost 7cuft. Does anyone have a good solution to rear view mirror vibrations, thats like the only one I have and it only rattles when I crank the system with like some SPL disc. But it is a loud vibration and I'd like to kill it, I want the mirror to stay adjustable though. Maybe I'll take it apart and look at it and see if theres anything I can dampen/tighten.

 

[i2ain2thunder 10+ year member]

I just recieved my 4 new low pass 800hz 4ohm filters from parts-express (such a good website). I recieved word that my 7" dayton reference mid-bass speakers have been shipped and should be here by the weekend. So I'm thinking of getting the fiberglass work done so I can simply cut out mounts and hook these puppies up. I've been told I shold be able to wire them in parallel with my passive crossovers for my components up front and in rear, this will make wiring very easy, any opinions on this? Also I'm looking for advice of where to mount the 4 7" mids, I have components in the stock placements in the doors and reardeck. I've got a goos spot in the back sides for 2 of them. I want the other 2 to go up front if I can, but theres not much room maybe someone else has done something with fiberglass thats a good idea? I'll post pics.

 

[i2ain2thunder 10+ year member]

This is the spot in the back seats on the side-wall where I'm gonna put one of the 7" and another in the opposite side.

These are the front floors was thinking just a small fiberglass enclosure somewhere on the floor, but theres not much room especially b/cuz it's a manual and I got a clutch in there.

This is the door panel. There is a driver in the stock speaker placement I'm thinking maybe room If I cut into the plastic at the rear portion of the door panel maybe...

 

[bigbangtheory 5,000+ posts]

Manual or not, you can make kicks for the mid bass. I had a 99 z24 and had Q-form kicks which housed a 6 1/2" mid and 1" tweet. Also did a custom kick after that as I didnt care for the Q-forms and fit fine. Just have to measure twice, cut once. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Now fitting the 7" in stock speaker location may be tricky. Could always fiberglass the bottom half of door if you know what you are doing, but that is some time.

Looks like it is coming along. Good job!

 

[i2ain2thunder 10+ year member]

Alright I got next weekend off, so I'm gonna plan on doing some fiberglass work then. I've decided to cut MDF supports and fiberglass over them for the rear spots I chose, and I'm 90% gonna take out the cloth portion of the side doors and make some kickpanels outa those and stickem there....IDK for some reason I like the idea of having the midbass right beside my torso, should give me some good punches. I'll post pics when I can.

 

[i2ain2thunder 10+ year member]

didn't get any work done this weekend had 2 weddings 2 birthdays and a graduation to attend. I'm pretty decided now on making kick panels for the 7" Dayton mids. Just picked up a eclipse cd7100 HU being shipped should be here by next weekend maybe install it and start on the kicks and gonna buy a HO by the end of July.

 

[i2ain2thunder 10+ year member]

I'm getting excited for my build again. Gonna have time this weekend and weather is going to be nice, gonna try to get the fiberglass work finally done for the midbass drivers and my new HU installed. I just ordered my new HO alt from EA and a Optima Yellowtop. all goes well my system should be complete within a couple weeks.