final run through of what im doing

09civic
5,000+ posts

CarAudio.com Veteran
so im about to do the big 3 when my friend gets here. so just a quick run through.

right now, they have positive to fuse box, positive to alt, neg to engine, and neg to frame.

so basically do i just leave the fuse box as in and just add the zero gauge on top of everything they already have?

 
Agreed, any wire you add to the battery positive should be immediately fused, including the alt wire.

Leave the factory wires, they will share current and reduce voltage drop, which is the whole reason behind the big 3

 
I think it's funny that the stock wire from the alt to battery pos isn't fused.
OEM does a better job than routing and protecting wires than 99% of the population. And in many cars, the alt-batt wire is fused at the main engine bay fuse box. mine has a 100A fuse from factory (and like 4-6 awg wire). my big 3 alt-batt wire has a 4awg with a 100A fuse. i have parallel paths. but the alt-batt wire is routed separately from the factory wiring in order to reduce length, and is more prone to damage - hence the fuse.

And since 85% of the big 3 installs i see done on forums are devoid of any form of wire protection (tech flex or loom), i always recommend a fuse.

My Big 3 with Honda ELD bypass and H.O. alt installation:

http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/1804618/page/1#Post1804618

 
OEM does a better job than routing and protecting wires than 99% of the population. And in many cars, the alt-batt wire is fused at the main engine bay fuse box. mine has a 100A fuse from factory (and like 4-6 awg wire). my big 3 alt-batt wire has a 4awg with a 100A fuse. i have parallel paths. but the alt-batt wire is routed separately from the factory wiring in order to reduce length, and is more prone to damage - hence the fuse.
And since 85% of the big 3 installs i see done on forums are devoid of any form of wire protection (tech flex or loom), i always recommend a fuse.

My Big 3 with Honda ELD bypass and H.O. alt installation:

http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/1804618/page/1#Post1804618
Ford, lulz, I don't even think my wire was 4 gauge, I think it was 6-8. I have heat resistant wrap around mine. It's rated at 1500 degrees of protection //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

I guess my point is people just need to do ish right //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 
Here's a pic of what I did:

DSCN0550.jpg


 
My new battery - Die Hard Platinum P-4 Group 34/78DT

accordbattery005.jpg


accordbattery004.jpg


accord_alt0510_altfar.jpg


The 135 Min. Reserve Capacity and Warranty were the selling points. My RedTop was 7 years old and no longer resting at >12V.

Power Ratings:

Amp Hours at 20 Hour Rate: 68

Cold Cranking Amps (CCA at 0 deg.F): 880

Reserve Capacity (RC): 135 min.

It is made by Odyssey and is AGM

 
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