Extra mounting holes in the subwoofer basket

[jdawg 5,000+ posts]

http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?srchExt=CAT&srchCat=831&CFID=7116731&CFTOKEN=92531300

called tbolts or tnuts, its actually the PROPER way to mount a woofer with a cast basket, even though most people use drywall screws

 

[wvufootball 10+ year member]

I would make a support for the magnet before I drilled more holes. Just be sure to account for the volume of the support.

 

[rmzsuzuki89 10+ year member]

I would make a support for the magnet before I drilled more holes. Just be sure to account for the volume of the support.

Not meaning to jack the thread, but what would be the best way to do this? Just make a 2x4 frame and rest the motor in it?

 

[x2o 10+ year member]

Hm, I'm looking at the T-nuts and can't figure out how they work... Where does the nut with the teeth go? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 

[azbass 5,000+ posts]

Hm, I'm looking at the T-nuts and can't figure out how they work... Where does the nut with the teeth go? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

it goes on the inside of the box. bites into the wood from the back.

 

[kmanian 5,000+ posts]

i epoxy my T-nuts to the box...if one ever slips out....it's over.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/verymad.gif.3f39c5c2fd57527b671fad3efdfac756.gif

100%

 

[kmanian 5,000+ posts]

ill probably pass on the T nuts, dont want a gaping hole if something happens to it. i may just drill 2 extra holes in between the bottom 3 stock mounting holes to provide extra support. like someone said above, thats where the most stress will be with the weight trying to push out on the screws
what are some heavier duty screws out there? ill pre-drill the holes

commonly available at HD or Lowes are deck screws, they are much stronger than drywall screws

 

[x2o 10+ year member]

it goes on the inside of the box. bites into the wood from the back.

Ah gotcha! Thanks for the answer azbass //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif.

 

[iowaaurora 10+ year member]

you can also add a ring on the inside so screws go through 1.5" as opposed to .75

and any nice sub on nice installed should use t-nuts

 

[BASS_WARRIOR 10+ year member]

Like stated above I would come up with some sort of brace or support for the motor of the sub. That makes the most sense to me.

 

[jmcinvale 10+ year member]

What would be interesting is for someone to make a ring that is 1/2" thich with threaded holes that match the woofer's mounting holes. That way the sub would be completely secure distributing the weight more evenly across the mounting surface

 

[boomin spl 10+ year member]

i always use coarse threaded stainless steel sheet metal screws. But i also would use common sense and have more than on board to mount too. function first noob, then make it pretty. Who cares how nice it looks when the basket cracks and it laying on the floor becuase you could afford to loose .2 cubes.

 

[Kil4Thril 10+ year member]

What would be interesting is for someone to make a ring that is 1/2" thich with threaded holes that match the woofer's mounting holes. That way the sub would be completely secure distributing the weight more evenly across the mounting surface

I had a coworker do that for me on a box for a couple of 15" RF Power series back in 93 or 94. He made the rings out of 1/8" aluminum and anodized them for me. Used either #10 or 1/4" bolts- I can't remember. Between the woofer mounting holes were some smaller holes to put some little drywall screws from the inside of the enclosure to keep the ring from coming loose while mounting/unmounting the driver. It was sweet.