enclosures for mids

[gsr22 10+ year member]

hey i was looking at some scanspeak revelators and other comparable diy mids and they all seekm to need a sealed enclose of a bout .25ft or so whats the best way to make enclosure for the mids to go in the door besides fiberglass

Click to read more...

 

[kross 10+ year member]

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-7cng028KkDK/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?search=baffle&i=237XT65

 

[xtremekustomz 10+ year member]

First of all...what size scan speak driver are you talking about? From the .25 cu ft it looks like you are looking for a dedicated midrange? I would cross them over at 2k because they don't work well off axis beyond that point. Also...make sure that enclosure is completely sealed becasue they aren't made to deal with moisture. Personally I would put them in the kicks to get the best sound. Make sure your enclosure is really strong and solid. I'd use a good bit of deadener, non hardening modeling clay, and some polyfill on the inside.

 

[AcidicDreams 10+ year member]

infinite baffle.... seal the inside door panel from the rest of the cab and the whole door becomes the box.....

 

[AcidicDreams 10+ year member]

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-7cng028KkDK/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?search=baffle&i=237XT65

those aren't enclosures...

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

infinite baffle.... seal the inside door panel from the rest of the cab and the whole door becomes the box.....

ive always wondered that. how does my door become the box, if there is basically no way to seal around the window "gasket"? its basically a big leak right there.

just a serious ? ive been wondering about.

 

[gsr22 10+ year member]

infinite baffle.... seal the inside door panel from the rest of the cab and the whole door becomes the box.....

well i have my doors completly deadend with 2 layers of ss/raammat filled the holes with plexi have egg crate foam behind the speakes and ensolite on top of everything?

i, not sure if those diy drivers are made for infinite baffle i believe there suppose top go in a tower so the only way of making an enlocusure has to be fiber glass right

also i was looking at the 7" rev

 

[genxx 10+ year member]

Go to DIY and ask the same question. I have ran the Seas IB. Never had the Scans but you can get the answer quick on DIYMA. On the glass the window gasket works the same was as you not having a swimming pool in your door when it rains. Same idea as when using an entire trunk in IB. I am sure some air is going to make it in or out some how but its such a small amount that it doesn't affect the driver. Just my .2 cents on the process.

 

[xtremekustomz 10+ year member]

Scan Speak drivers are made for realistic musical production and if you aren't going to install them right then you are just wasting money. Like I said, those components are NOT made for vehicle use so they are not treated for moisture and if they get wet....well...there goes $400 They need to be in a sealed enclosure or an AP enclosure. When you hear people talk about how good these sound it has ALOT to do with the installation and tuning. Just because it is one of the best midranges doesn't mean that you can just throw it in somewhere. And yes, very strong fiberglass enclosures. I'm going to go ahead and tell you....making an enclosure for a midrange/midbass can cause you alot of headache. If you don't get that thing where it doesn't doesn't resonate it is just going to sound like pure ***. You may want to look for something in a car audio line that you can put in the doors and just use the door for the enclosure. I'm not telling you not to do it...but it isn't going to be easy to make it sound right by any means. If you want something that has a good thump, has the ability to play loud and handle lots of power I would say go with a Dynaudio.

 

[genxx 10+ year member]

Plenty off people have ran the Scan Revs in vehicles. I have not but plenty of people have that can tell you how make them work best.

There are alot of drivers not made for vehicle use that people are using. It is easier for most people to just buy drivers desinged for car audio.

I agree it is going be installed based just like anything else you buy.

If your spending the money the Dyn's are nice. There is alot of other options out there unless you are dead set on a DIY driver.

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

Go to DIY and ask the same question. I have ran the Seas IB. Never had the Scans but you can get the answer quick on DIYMA. On the glass the window gasket works the same was as you not having a swimming pool in your door when it rains. Same idea as when using an entire trunk in IB. I am sure some air is going to make it in or out some how but its such a small amount that it doesn't affect the driver. Just my .2 cents on the process.

what about when i roll my window all the way down? my window goes down far enough that it completely clears the gasket leaving like a 1/4" wide gap almost all the way back to where the door handle is.

just asking cause i always thought about building an enclosure for my mids but ive read both good and bad things about it.

sorry to thread jack

 

[genxx 10+ year member]

Not sure never tried rolling it down and pooring water in to see how much it might leak. Good question though and I do not have the answer. Its wierd we all call it IB but is it truly IB? IB is only sealing the front from the back and no way a trunk is going to be completely sealed is there without drastic measures? From the trunk to the cabin I can see in IB. I had a Transam that we IB 2 12's in the rear well area. Like I said IMO you are not going to be able to completely seal up a door in IB.(I will add of a daily driver) You could I guess if you caulked the window or used expanding foam and sealed it off but then you couldn't roll it down. I am sure it could be done but not at an exceptable trade off.

I personally do not want to have to build door pods so I watch what I buy so I can get away with mounting them in the doors.(well deadened and sealed the best I can)

Only way I know to test would be to seal it and pressure test it with air. See if the gauge holds at a constant pressure.

I am going to have to build enclosures this time for my mid-range. So I feel you on the whole having to build an enclosure and hope its done perfect. I figure I will mess it up atleast twice and it will sound like a**. I will get it figured out in the end.

Sorry for the thread jacking.

 

[genxx 10+ year member]

Here is answer about the Scans from the DIY Crowd cut and pasted about what you asked.

I am using them IB as dedicated midbass and work fantastic. The low end is GREAT! To protect them from dripping water I put some of those XTC foam baffles cut in half and the back cut off. Ensolite should work too.

My car came with untreated paper cone speakers, so if they can make it for many years, so will the scans. By the time they wear out I'll be ready for something new and improved anyway is how I look at it.

Also, Alpine and Gensis use a slightly modified version of the Scans in ther high end drivers, so why not cut the marketing fat and use the DIY drivers?

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

Expect a monstor low end and lack of detail in the upper midrange. They will not snap, but can sound like butter...smooth and sort of "warm." They will take all the power you and your sister can find to throw at them and then some!

By the description of your vehicle gsr22, they will play in nearly the identical environment that I have them in my car right now. I'M SURE all the other people that have replied to this thread have DIRECT experience with them in this application! RIIIIIIIGHT! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

My initial comments after installing them:

"For a driver not optimized for IB and not broken in yet, all I have to say is S O L I D, solid! I guess I'd never know they were 8 ohms to tell you the truth. Maybe the additional cone area has made up for it?? Either that or my impression of 8 ohm drivers needing more power has changed.

 

I can see how other's describe the tone as "dark." That was my first impression, actually. But "dark" in a good way because my Lord do they play clear, low and are buttery smooth. It's so nice to have a driver that can be HP at 50 hz or lower now. I missed that with the Profi Kicks. But, I do have to say that the Profi Kicks, from what my ears are telling me so far really do own the 80-250Hz range.

 

More listening and tuning is in order. But I can say with confidense that Dream Theater's "Pull Me Under" has never sounded better."

Picture of the actual drivers installed:



Follow up comments after a few weeks:

"Yes they are lacking the snap and authority in that region due to install. My doors are well dampened and sealed the best as I can get them, but it still doesn't act as an enclosure. I'm going to do some further experimenting and maybe even make some pod extentions for the lower door panel so that I can put them on a really thick baffle.

 

I have them HP at 50hz with a 24db slope and then LP at 3.15hz with a 12 db /oct slope. I got some great advice from another member that runs them IB too. He felt that giving them some extra room above the typicall 200hz LP point will help them fill out more. I tried it and felt it was great advice."

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

Scan Speak drivers are made for realistic musical production and if you aren't going to install them right then you are just wasting money. Like I said, those components are NOT made for vehicle use so they are not treated for moisture and if they get wet....well...there goes $400 They need to be in a sealed enclosure or an AP enclosure. When you hear people talk about how good these sound it has ALOT to do with the installation and tuning. Just because it is one of the best midranges doesn't mean that you can just throw it in somewhere. And yes, very strong fiberglass enclosures. I'm going to go ahead and tell you....making an enclosure for a midrange/midbass can cause you alot of headache. If you don't get that thing where it doesn't doesn't resonate it is just going to sound like pure ***. You may want to look for something in a car audio line that you can put in the doors and just use the door for the enclosure. I'm not telling you not to do it...but it isn't going to be easy to make it sound right by any means. If you want something that has a good thump, has the ability to play loud and handle lots of power I would say go with a Dynaudio.

You're correct on a few things, but so far off on others that I don't even know where to begin to straighten it all out. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif Read what Genxx said.