I am about to purchase 2 XFL 10”s I know this subs require a good bit of watts to really push them and was wondering what electrical upgrades I would need to push them. I current have a tundra 2008 crew max with a stock alr 130amps and a duralast gold battery under the hood.Any help would be greatly appreciated!
And the reason the price is so high on the alt is because of the tundra it’s unreasonably hard to get to and you have to remove many other components to get it out which seems to make it a pretty lengthy process
I checked the install videos for the 2007/2008 and it doesn't look that bad.
It looks like a case of if some weekend warrior tried doing it at home yeah it would be not only tough but ultra time consuming but a proper mechanic with proper tools and a car lift it's not that hard (remove wheel, remove plastic shielding, remove 4 bolts to bring the sway bar down, remove 3 bolts to loosen power steering pump and then all you have to do is push it to the side to give you direct acccess to the alternator).
I would contact other shops and explain what you need because it does not look very time consuming or difficult (especially for a professional shop). It's more time consuming then say my car (my car you can install and alt in like 20 minutes) but there's zero reason why it should take a good mechanic more than 1.5 hours total to do a remove of the old alt and install of the new one.
Good point. Not only that if your still running the OEM alt then there's a strong chance your going to have to replace it anyways (especially if you plan on keeping the car at least a few more years) so might as well do it proper
I mean I'd go h.o. when you can. Sounds like op might want a shop to do it.
I've got a 1700 in my daily ATM and a mechman 400 on the way.
I'm doing 135.3 db at 35 hz and 133.4db with vehicle off. I'll post what numbers I get with the new alt. Not sure when I'll get it but the biggest benefit will be bypassing that sensor that tells my alt when to turn on
I checked the install videos for the 2007/2008 and it doesn't look that bad.
It looks like a case of if some weekend warrior tried doing it at home yeah it would be not only tough but ultra time consuming but a proper mechanic with proper tools and a car lift it's not that hard (remove wheel, remove plastic shielding, remove 4 bolts to bring the sway bar down, remove 3 bolts to loosen power steering pump and then all you have to do is push it to the side to give you direct acccess to the alternator).
I would contact other shops and explain what you need because it does not look very time consuming or difficult (especially for a professional shop). It's more time consuming then say my car (my car you can install and alt in like 20 minutes) but there's zero reason why it should take a good mechanic more than 1.5 hours total to do a remove of the old alt and install of the new one.
Good point. Not only that if your still running the OEM alt then there's a strong chance your going to have to replace it anyways (especially if you plan on keeping the car at least a few more years) so might as well do it proper
audio apex has charged my card 3 times for the cab22 and evert time it said incorrect billing address and acted like it never went through now I have no order and 600 charged from my card
audio apex has charged my card 3 times for the cab22 and evert time it said incorrect billing address and acted like it never went through now I have no order and 600 charged from my card
audio apex has charged my card 3 times for the cab22 and evert time it said incorrect billing address and acted like it never went through now I have no order and 600 charged from my card
Contact Audio Apex they will fix it they are really good about that stuff. Mistakes happen online. Also why deal with amazon that charges a bunch of money to sell stuff there when they have the audience they have?
Card as in credit card? Can i ask who you bank with? I've purchased warranty plans through squaretrade, but I've never had to cash in on one so can't speak to their service.
What the f*ck is wrong with you dude? First you get all types of mad when I refuse to tell you my a/s/l and now you are asking people for their bank info? Someone ban this scammer.
You can not be serious. No you buy from the company or an authorized dealer with your actual card. PayPal is just another middle man and your advice is dumber than shit
You can not be serious. No you buy from the company or an authorized dealer with your actual card. PayPal is just another middle man and your advice is dumber than shit
Fuggin what. When you check out on their site you can use credit card or PayPal. Their credit card option is glitchy for some reason but PayPal worked fine.
Gtfo ya salty hag.
Fuggin what. When you check out on their site you can use credit card or PayPal. Their credit card option is glitchy for some reason but PayPal worked fine.
Gtfo ya salty hag.
I have some questions about clipping. So I had my subs and everything installed by a local car audio place and they did an amazing job setting everything up but one thing I’m confused about is my SW level is set to negative 20 and I have also seen my clip light go off a few times when it gets pretty loud but i feel it should def be able to play louder before clipping.I started turning down the SW level and once it go to near zero the subs started hitting very very hard at very low volume levels but it was way to much and maybe sounded bad for the subs when I did this but I’m not forsure. What should I set my SW level as most people have it set to zero?They also put warranty stickers over my gain and etc because I’m supposed to go in 2 weeks for a retune once they are broke in