Dodge Dakota Build Log

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

If you ran the console from the dash to the back wall it could be done.
As for the rear seats, just used some U-channel and welded up some brackets at the right angle and used the stock mounting locations in the rear of the Dakota and then attached the U-channel to the seats mounting points.

A FG Box running down the middle of the truck all the way to the back... I think that would be a first, maybe?

Im sure i could do something cool with that but Id rather spend my $ on other areas.

i gotta hand it to ya, your dak looks tight as hell...

if it rides as fast as it looks, your sir are very lucky.

v6 3.7 makes me sad.... it can go fast just takes a while to get there =/

 

[00RedRT 10+ year member]

A FG Box running down the middle of the truck all the way to the back... I think that would be a first, maybe?Im sure i could do something cool with that but Id rather spend my $ on other areas.

i gotta hand it to ya, your dak looks tight as hell...

if it rides as fast as it looks, your sir are very lucky.

v6 3.7 makes me sad.... it can go fast just takes a while to get there =/

Thank you, I really appreciate that. It's been a fun vehicle to mod, and I've been modding it for 6 years now and still love to drive it. You can see a lot more pics of it at http://www.madrt.com/darren.html

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

got this out so far

Still not sure how to deal with the port.

I want to incorporate some kerfing and changeable ports, but the two just don't go together easily.

Changeable ports would also be rather large and would take a bit of work to mount them properly.

So i might end up going with one large kerfed port on the passenger side facing up

The box atm is a 12ft^3 box but after displacement and such it will drop a few. Was also planning on cutting out a section to hide the batteries but i don't want to impede airflow in the box to much.

In the end, I want to be looking at a 6.5 ft^3 net box

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

teaser vids of old box

http://img532.imageshack.us/my.php?image=picture007ff5.flv

and the other link got lost.... lookin for it =S

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

http://img532.imageshack.us/my.php?image=picture008ju0.flv

there it is, kinda short but dig it

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

A little more refined



window braces removed for the time being

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

And here it is with a kerf..

Thinking about possibly doing a divider down the middle of the kerf but that would be some work to get that divider cut to the curve of the port but very doable.



opinions appreciated.

Still need to find away to fill the box up more... there's to much **** air space but i want to try to keep the out dimensions the same without throwing in object to obstruct airflow

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

Ok so I pulled out all my audio equipment except for cables and headunit.. all speakers and amps are being stored off to the side atm so i have more space to work with and so i have motivation to finish. haha

In the meantime Id like to pick up some sound deadener before i put a few hundred pounds of equipment in the truck.

RaaMmat seems to be the deadener of choice for the price even though its still expensive as hell for me.

How much do you guys think i will need?

Thinking bout gettin 2 rolls but thats 238$ shipped!

I see alot of people also using that ensolite stuff but at $10.00+ per yard it seems hella expensive. Is it worth it or do you guys think i can do without it?

Deffinately gonna concentrate on deadening the roof and rear pannel after seeing all the flex my sub is capable of creating...

since my speakers are in doors that dont incorporate the inside of the door pannel I dont think it would need as much as normal but All doors will def need 1 layer to protect from road noise.

I might also weld in some extra steel braces in various areas to stop flex if possible. This isnt a sure thing but an idea definately.

Also gonna look into getting some door lock actuators so I can actually get some good use out of my keyless entry/alarm //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

the price of metal and gas is a ***** atm but if i can mange to drive down to the metal yard, i want to look for some tubing to make a frame out of so i can lay my box on it and bolt it securely to the truck from the bottom and the rear.

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

wrong thread dammit~~~ ignore this post

 

[00RedRT 10+ year member]

Yes, 2 rolls of RAAMmat wil be sufficient. And then you'll need about 5 yards of Ensolite to do it all. The mat is a great sound deadener, IOW it's purpose is to keep the metal from resonating. It's not to sound proof the cab of your truck. That's what the Ensolite is for. You apply that over the the RAAMmat and it will aid to keep road noises out.

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

Yes, 2 rolls of RAAMmat wil be sufficient. And then you'll need about 5 yards of Ensolite to do it all. The mat is a great sound deadener, IOW it's purpose is to keep the metal from resonating. It's not to sound proof the cab of your truck. That's what the Ensolite is for. You apply that over the the RAAMmat and it will aid to keep road noises out.

****... well im not to worried about sound proofing, just want to get rid of the vibrations/ flex and rattles. If there is a difference

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

btw im sure many people are wondering what program I use to model my boxes.

Its called cinema 4d. I used to model cars when i was like 16 but then i got bored of it. Well good thing i remember how to use it because it is very handy now.

here is a current progress pic.

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

**** designs just keep popping into my head.

besides the one i just posted... Thinking of this, sorry no pic

Sub centered facing forward

2 flared ports on both sides facing upward

outside dimensions

total depth of box would be ~ 17"

and stay about 50" wide

and height about 22"

and instead of cavitities for batteries they would be on the outside.

only problem is locating the amps =S

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

Ok so i modified design #1 to fit the required air volume by filling extra space with a larger battery cavity + an empty cavity above that.

The result is this.

6.5 ft^3 after displacement

tuned to 35hz +-1

 

[twisztdauthorit 10+ year member]

Ive settled on the design above and im gonna build it before i change my mind.

Looks like Im also short one sheet of wood.

Cut sheet says its gonna be 2.5 sheets of MDF ,***** is gonna be heavy:crap:

might go pick up another gallon of FG for the door pods too... maybe

I dont like spending money on materials:furious: