Do these pieces make a whole? (system planning)

[Notwerk 10+ year member]

Arc makes great amps. Even the low-end Kar amps are great.

I really think there's nothing wrong either of your designs, but I'd say that if you've heard the gear you're looking to buy and like them, go with them. Someone here might knock metal domes, but maybe you like them. I really don't like metal domes, but I've found the XRs to be pretty good for metal dome. So, it really depends on your personal preference.

Don't get the Rainbows because someone said you should; You may not agree with their preference and end up with something you don't like. When possible, always listen first-hand to the stuff you're looking at. Failing that, you should at least know what you like in a speaker and let us know what you're looking for so that we can try to think of similar sounding stuff.

Are you planning to do the install yourself? If you're not, and you can find an Arc dealer, it might be worth your while. Why? Their amps are great, their ACS components are Rainbows and their Arc series subs are built by Image Dynamics. You could go all Arc and get really good gear, and if you're looking to have it installed, you can probably work with the installer for a deal. Same goes for JL if you want to do an all-JL system.

On the other hand, if you're going it yourself, you're free to pick and choose from all the available deals.

 

[evan 10+ year member]

... When possible, always listen first-hand to the stuff you're looking at...

That's part of my problem. I'm not only a newb with little to no knowledge of the smaller more specialized car audio companies, but I live in a town with a limited number of shops who, with a few exceptions, carry the mass marketed junk.

The local shops carry:

• Pioneer
  
• Inifinity
  
• JL Audio
  
• MTX
  
• MB Quart
  
• JVC
  
• Rockford Fosgate
  
• Alpine
  
• Kicker
  
• Sony
  
• Audison
  
• Focal
  
• Boston Acoustics
  
• Audiobahn
  
• Kenwood
  
• Hertz
  

 

[JeffyZ33 10+ year member]

^^ Ouch not a whole lot of high-end variety.

JL is good for a complete setup IF you can get a decent hookup on it. Chances are if you're doing a full install a shop will cut some prices for you.

 

[evan 10+ year member]

...JL is good for a complete setup IF you can get a decent hookup on it. Chances are if you're doing a full install a shop will cut some prices for you.

I'm planning on doing the install myself. That's the main reason why I'm looking for some internet deals.

 

[JeffyZ33 10+ year member]

I'm not sure what to say then. It's too bad (for you) that Arc cracks down on internet sales like a mofo, because their amps are great. Oh well, they're one of the few (who else does it.. Memphis?) that trys to keep money in the dealers pockets.

 

[evan 10+ year member]

This is the latest combo I'm leaning toward. This does depend on me being able to find someone who sells Rainbow.

 

[JeffyZ33 10+ year member]

W6 is the best thing JL has going for them IMO, props //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif

 

[T3mpest 10+ year member]

.
Could I put the woofer in the door and the mids and tweets in a kick enclosure? My footroom is limited as it is.

What else would you look for in a head unit?

I'll keep that in mind when I'm listening to them next time.

Your hu is fine, there's soon to be a "pioneer is teh **** bandwagon", just like how TC fell off once someone aluminum cone had issues, dont' worry about it. As far as the 3 way is concerned, yes that's fine. Midbasses off axis response is exactly the same as it's on axis, so you won't have any issues not putting them in the kick. Some of the best sounding cars I've ever heard have done this, it works fantastic, just make sure to properly deaden your doors. It's the midrange and tweet you really want to get in the kicks. Plus I've always preferred metal tweets in kicks anyway. I'd skip the VR's entirely and get a 3 way going with the XR's. They are nice speakers, especially if you can find a good deal on them.

As far as amps go, JL isn't really a good choice overall. Not very effecient for the most part. If your looking for a high profile company to get your amp from, arc is a solid choice, i think someone mentioned them. Top notch quality amps, even in the lower lines. DLS might also be something to look into.

Judging from your local brands I'd say JL Audio,MB Quart,Alpine,Audison,Focal,Boston Acoustics and hertz all have something worth looking at in your price range. In terms of component speakers, try to listen to Alpine Type X's JL XR's BA Pros, and whatever speakers hertz has in that price range. I've always liked MB quartz speakers, as well as BA. The harsher metal domes of the MBQ's wont' be as bad in a kickpanel, and may just end up sounding detailed, it all just depends on your preference. Audison makes some nice amps as well, if you want a solid, local JL alternative. You have quite a few good brands in your area, take a good listen and figure out what you like best. Even if price gets you down you can always buy them online, or we can recommend a similar souding comp set from a cheaper company.

Your choice to get 1 w6 vs 2w3's is a good one, IMO.

PS. If you do decide to go with a 300/2 here's one at a GREAT price, good seller too.

http://www.elitecaraudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=137504

 

[JohnBlayz142 10+ year member]

I think you will be totally happy with the original system you picked out. It's all high quality gear and will sound awesome if installed properly. Some will disagree about the deck, but I've had my same Pioneer deh-p7300 since 2001 and it sounds awesome to this day. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[evan 10+ year member]

I was looking at the details about the MRP-F450 and on the Alpine site it says this:

Brigded 4 ohms: 350W x 2 (0.3% THD)

http://www.alpine-usa.com/en/products/product.php?model=MRP-F450
Is that the power it will be pushing in real world application or is that peak? If that is RMS, then it would be too much for the Germaniums wouldn't it?

 

[azimuth 5,000+ posts]

I was looking at the details about the MRP-F450 and on the Alpine site it says this:http://www.alpine-usa.com/en/products/product.php?model=MRP-F450

Is that the power it will be pushing in real world application or is that peak? If that is RMS, then it would be too much for the Germaniums wouldn't it?

that is rms power for that amp. i think the germaniums are only 75 rms. right?

 

[azimuth 5,000+ posts]

the Alpine MRP-F250 would work.

 

[evan 10+ year member]

that is rms power for that amp. i think the germaniums are only 75 rms. right?

The Germaniums are...

• Peak - 150W
  
• Nominal - 100W
  
• Minimum - 75W
  

So, according to the Alpine site even the MRP-F250 would be pushing it a bit with 180Wx2. How strictly should I be following these guidelines?

 

[azimuth 5,000+ posts]

The Germaniums are...

• Peak - 150W
  
• Nominal - 100W
  
• Minimum - 75W
  

So, according to the Alpine site even the MRP-F250 would be pushing it a bit with 180Wx2. How strictly should I be following these guidelines?

i thought the mrp-250 was 100 x 2 @ 4 ohms rms.

 

[azimuth 5,000+ posts]

The Germaniums are...

• Peak - 150W
  
• Nominal - 100W
  
• Minimum - 75W
  

So, according to the Alpine site even the MRP-F250 would be pushing it a bit with 180Wx2. How strictly should I be following these guidelines?

if you get a more powerful amp than your speakers are rated for, you just have to watch your gains. cranking up the gains without tuning the correct way is bad.