Do I Need a Subwoofer, or/and an amplifier, and what kind???

[coodood]

Planet Audio AC1200.4 ANARCHY 1200-Watt Full Range Class A/B 2 to 8 Ohm Stable 4 Channel Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HLSU6PI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_v40zybKDJH65K

Would this be suitable as well? What about attaching all 4 speakers and having the sub attached to the wiring for one of the pairs of speakers? Just in theory. They have it as an option in one of the pictures on the product page.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Planet Audio AC1200.4 ANARCHY 1200-Watt Full Range Class A/B 2 to 8 Ohm Stable 4 Channel Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HLSU6PI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_v40zybKDJH65KWould this be suitable as well? What about attaching all 4 speakers and having the sub attached to the wiring for one of the pairs of speakers? Just in theory. They have it as an option in one of the pictures on the product page.

Absolute Garbage. 20 actual watts tops with that amp along with blowing up the first month. You have junk brands you need to avoid at all cost and thats one of them. On the cheap you have ppi/precision power, mbquart that do a proper job. Theres a reason i chose that mbquart amp for you and its the adjustable crossovers and subwoofer capabilities on channel 3 and 4. Dont cheap out and choose stuff thats not right for the job bud. Thats how you waste precious money in car audio. Like with those scoshe you had...

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

If your speakers are loud enough already for you, then there is no need to amp them. If you want more bass, get a mono block amp and run a single sub. You seem to like Kicker. Just stick with them. They are a decent enough brand for amps and subs.

Its not wheter loud or not, he needs adjustable crossovers for the front distortion hes experiencing along with a bass upgrade path. Also power helps with sound quality and clarity not just loudness. Head unit power is horrible for sound quality.

 

[coodood]

Okay sounds good. So it sounds like I'd basically have the fronts for mid and high notes and the rears for mid and low notes, then add a sub eventually for the low and really low. And just a side question, using the amp for the fronts and the sub, I know the rears are not the main centerpiece or used in competition, but the fact is I'm not competing. I like my rears. Would they be drowned out?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Okay sounds good. So it sounds like I'd basically have the fronts for mid and high notes and the rears for mid and low notes, then add a sub eventually for the low and really low. And just a side question, using the amp for the fronts and the sub, I know the rears are not the main centerpiece or used in competition, but the fact is I'm not competing. I like my rears. Would they be drowned out?

Your sub wont be drowning anything out with 200 watts.

 

[coodood]

So any ~200W sub from a good brand?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Any 150 to 300 rms sub from a decent brand is fine.

For now just amp both front and rear till you have enough for the sub.

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

Jeff has a tendency to go overboard in his criticism of less than high quality gear.

Your HU's not 10-12w. There are NUMEROUS HU's that will do 16-18w rms at 1% THD or less, yours is one of them. But the point stands that it's not much power for a quality pair of aftermarket speakers.

Same thing with that Planet Audio amp. 20w is //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif . With the 30A fuse it's likely in the 250w rms range. That would break down to ~50x2 to your 4 ohm fronts and ~120 to a 4 ohm sub. That's probably not exact, but definitely in the ballpark.

How about this? Precision Power ICE1000.4 1000W Max Bridgeable 4-channel Amplifier

Probably a little over-rated, but I bet it'll give you 60-70x2 and ~200x1.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Jeff has a tendency to go overboard in his criticism of less than high quality gear.Your HU's not 10-12w. There are NUMEROUS HU's that will do 16-18w rms at 1% THD or less, yours is one of them. But the point stands that it's not much power for a quality pair of aftermarket speakers.

Same thing with that Planet Audio amp. 20w is //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif . With the 30A fuse it's likely in the 250w rms range. That would break down to ~50x2 to your 4 ohm fronts and ~120 to a 4 ohm sub. That's probably not exact, but definitely in the ballpark.

How about this? Precision Power ICE1000.4 1000W Max Bridgeable 4-channel Amplifier

Probably a little over-rated, but I bet it'll give you 60-70x2 and ~200x1.

You should watch some guts photos and videos where cheap amps love to overfuse to try fooling guys that judge by fusing. They either use a fuse waay too big(cause of poor reliability in some of these amps) or they put in fake fuses thats not even soldered to anything. for 50 dollars that planet audio amp wont make much actual power let alone clean undistorted power along with not having the crossover functions he needs.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Zapco ST line. IMO there isn't a better cheap amp out right now.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Zapco ST line. IMO there isn't a better cheap amp out right now.

its not 100 dollars anymore its 180 now. Or else i would have linked it.

Fking minimum wage increase is making EVERY fking price on everything in my amazon wishlist skyrocket.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

its not 100 dollars anymore its 180 now. Or else i would have linked it.
Fking minimum wage increase is making EVERY fking price on everything in my amazon wishlist skyrocket.

Somebody on Amazon had it for $130

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

You should watch some guts photos and videos where cheap amps love to overfuse to try fooling guys that judge by fusing. They either use a fuse waay too big(cause of poor reliability in some of these amps) or they put in fake fuses thats not even soldered to anything. for 50 dollars that planet audio amp wont make much actual power let alone clean undistorted power along with not having the crossover functions he needs.

Yeah, I've seen them.

Those are rare exceptions. I had suspicions on Lanzar's dummy fuses before pictures started showing up.

I've only seen one (maybe two?) with half a board in the chassis. One was some 20+ yr old pyramid nobody bought anyway.

The Planet's just a typical cheap over-rated amp.

 

[2twelves]

First did you run real speaker wire you hooked up these really nice sensitive speakers.the stock speaker wire is always **** .if rms is under 100 rms per channel 16 gauge but good make sure ofc if over 100 12 gauge ofc

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

First did you run real speaker wire you hooked up these really nice sensitive speakers.the stock speaker wire is always **** .if rms is under 100 rms per channel 16 gauge but good make sure ofc if over 100 12 gauge ofc

Theres no difference or benefit from between runing 12 gauge vs 16 gauge speaker wire not until you get to 300 rms per door speaker then you'll want to move up to 14 gauge but even then its not gonna be noticeable. 100-300 rms, 16 gauge does fine, any bigger gives no additional benefits.