Do I Need a Subwoofer, or/and an amplifier, and what kind???

[coodood]

I drive a 2004 Buick Century. I recently put in 2 5.25" kicker DSC50 in the front (door panels), and 2 kicker dsc6903 in the back (rear deck). I am going to install bass blockers on the fronts becasue I listen to a lot of rap and the fronts are just being punished by trying to put out so much low frequency (also putting in dynamat around front speakers because of problems with them being in the cheap door panel). I am thinking about adding a subwoofer, and I do not know what kind I would need, what power would be necessary, etc. The 6X9's are very good with bass, which makes me question if I really do need one, but my other question is wether to add an amplifier or not. The rear Kickers (6x9) have an RMS of 90, while my head unit can push 55Wx4 RMS, which is great for a head unit alone I think, but it is less than the rear speakers could take in theory. So should I use an amp to push the rear speakers to their full potential, and while I'm at it should I add a sub? I know I would need a 2-channel amp for that (sub+ pair of speakers), but that is about all I know. I also was considering a powered sub to avoid needing to install a separate amplifier and save some money, I was looking at bass tubes for example. Would it be smart to do a 1-channel amp for the rear speakers and then a powered sub in addition? The 6x9's really do punch hard, which makes me wonder how much power I would even need from a sub... I know I am very clueless, so please help me!! I need you guys!

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[coodood]

Do I even need to make the 6x9's use their full 90 RMS potential? It is very loud already, but I want to make sure after I put in the bass blockers in front the system as a whole doesn't lose any low-end punch.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

your head unit only does 10-12 actual watts. That 55 peak watts is just bullsh*t numbers to trick noobs. Any proper head unit should have a built in high pass filter so you dont really need any bass blockers. Just get a 5 channel amp, amp every speaker and then hook the 5th channel to the subwoofer. What model head unit do you have?

 

[coodood]

@Jeffdachef it is a Sony DSX-A400BT. The 55x4 is RMS not peak, I made sure of that. Or are they still lying when they say RMS? I really don't know terribly much. The head unit isn't killing the fronts, so I assume it does have a filter, but when the volume is at 35-40 out of 50, the fronts get distorted when trying to play bass anyway. I tested it with a frequency generator and it was everything below 300 Hz that made them too rattly/distorted at high volume.

 

[coodood]

Okay, I see now that the 55x4 is only the peak... Do I really need a 5-channel amp though? It seems overkill, but I guess I should have full power to all the speakers. Also, what RMS would I be looking for in this 5-channel amp? 90x5 to cover the rms of the rears, or higher to please the potential subwoofer?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

[quote name='coodood']@Jeffdachef it is a Sony DSX-A400BT. The 55x4 is RMS not peak, I made sure of that. Or are they still lying when they say RMS? I really don't know terribly much. The head unit isn't killing the fronts, so I assume it does have a filter, but when the volume is at 35-40 out of 50, the fronts get distorted when trying to play bass anyway. I tested it with a frequency generator and it was everything below 300 Hz that made them too rattly/distorted at high volume.[/QUOTE]

nope its peak read it again. Sony DSX-A400BT Digital media receiver (does not play CDs) at Crutchfield.com


Only head unit that puts out close to 40 watts rms on the market right now is the sony mex 100bt which has a whole power supply convertor thing. Every other head unit on the market uses the same cheapo 10-12 watt chip from china, there's NO difference in any of them no matter how expensive they are or how cheap they are. You have to turn the pass filter on in the audio options. However your head unit doesnt seem to have any high pass filter options and is very limited so thats a no. Looks like you'll just need a 3 channel amp or a 4 channel amp. The amp will have a high pass filter on them so you good there, no need to waste money on bass blockers.

 

[coodood]

So I would be looking at what rms for the amp? 90 would be insanely expensive at 5-channel, so what is a realistic amp for a starter like myself? Also how many channels do I need? It's one speaker per channel? So 5 for 2 pair plus a sub right?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

So I would be looking at what rms for the amp? 90 would be insanely expensive at 5-channel, so what is a realistic amp for a starter like myself? Also how many channels do I need? It's one speaker per channel? So 5 for 2 pair plus a sub right?

you cant do a 5 channel. Your head unit only has two pairs of rca outputs thats why i said 4 or 3 channel in my last post. Since most 3 channels are expensive, i'd go with a 4 channel.

This amp should do fine for a super cheap budget. Its not a real 100 watts but should be close to 60 or so at 4 ohms. You sub should see around 200 watts if you bridge the rear channels. So you'll hook up the front to channel 1 and 2 put it on high pass filter mode. and the sub bridged on the 3 and 4 which has a high pass/low pass option which blocks vocals from reaching your sub. Leave the rears on head unit power. When you go to a concert, you dont look away from the band, you look at them. Dont even bother amping the rears bud. The front is the most important part of a car sound system.

MB Quart OA800.4 800W RMS 4-Channel Onyx Series Class SQ Full-Range Bridgeable Power Amplifier

Just get a 12 or 15 inch low rms single 4 ohm or dual 2 ohm (wired series) sub in a sealed box and you should be golden.

 

[garychoffmann 10+ year member]

I sent you a pm. You're semi local if you need help

 

[coodood]

So are the 90 rms of the rears being wasted or is that just part of the game? They're loud enough already I'm not worried. With that amp the fronts would work well I assume? They aren't cheapo ones like I used to have (scosche HD, awful). And the rears wouldn't be completely drowned out with amping the front and sub would they?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

So are the 90 rms of the rears being wasted or is that just part of the game? They're loud enough already I'm not worried. With that amp the fronts would work well I assume? They aren't cheapo ones like I used to have (scosche HD, awful). And the rears wouldn't be completely drowned out with amping the front and sub would they?

Again. Do you hear people sing and turn around and have them sing to your back? Or do you face them like a proper normal human being?

Your rears are already drowning out the fronts as it is because the rears are much bigger speakers. You need to amp the front because you need to cross them over with the high pass filter on the amp to prevent low frequencies from reaching them causing distortion and rattle. Along with having them keep up with the rears. You have two choices. Amp both front and rears and no subwoofer OR amp fronts and add a subwoofer and keep rears on head unit power. Either way your head unit is limiting your upgrade paths.

Most properly done vehicles dont even use any rears because it fks up the sound stage and realism you get from music, overall destroys sound quality. No person in their right minds run rears in sound quality comps just FYI. A properly done front stage will make you wish you never even cared about rears in the first place. You'll just need to experience it yourself... Hit up garychoffmann if you want to hear a properly done setup.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Again. Do you hear people sing and turn around and have them sing to your back? Or do you face them like a proper normal human being?
Your rears are already drowning out the fronts as it is because the rears are much bigger speakers. You need to amp the front because you need to cross them over with the high pass filter on the amp to prevent low frequencies from reaching them causing distortion and rattle. Along with having them keep up with the rears. You have two choices. Amp both front and rears and no subwoofer OR amp fronts and add a subwoofer and keep rears on head unit power. Either way your head unit is limiting your upgrade paths.

Most properly done vehicles dont even use any rears because it fks up the sound stage and realism you get from music, overall destroys sound quality. No person in their right minds run rears in sound quality comps just FYI. A properly done front stage will make you wish you never even cared about rears in the first place. You'll just need to experience it yourself... Hit up garychoffmann if you want to hear a properly done setup.

They do if they have 5.1 or more. But op don't have that option

 

[TwistedOracle]

Listen to Jeff, get a 4 channel use channel 1&2 for front mids...bridge 3&4 for sub. 6x9 off of headunit or just sell them to free up extra money for sub or amp.

 

[ashren315]

If your speakers are loud enough already for you, then there is no need to amp them. If you want more bass, get a mono block amp and run a single sub. You seem to like Kicker. Just stick with them. They are a decent enough brand for amps and subs.

 

[coodood]

Well the problem with monoblock would be the lack of power to the fronts, which is more important apparently. As it is right now I have to have the fader rear biased to not hear the front distortion on bass. As far as the 6X9's, I really like how they sound, and considering I'm not an enthusiast I want to keep them there. Don't wanna sell them if they make me happy kind of thing. Even if rears aren't used in competition, I'm a normal civilian yanno. Just wanting to enjoy my music and bother some neighbors maybe