Do caps really **** that bad ?

caps are GREAT for filtering in an SQ system where the RMS demands are not that great....... they don't hold enough usable charge to increase SPL any.

 
Info sticks with me better if im discussing it with people rather than reading it...it doesnt stick....make sense ProjectPechkin ??
They don't teach reading comprehension these days?

To answer your question, a capacitor works just fine in the applications for which it's intended...

 
you all keep saying in the rite situation they help... well would it help in my position im runnin 1200wrms and i have a sound stream 4 farad cap

 
u don't need a new alt for 1200wrms.

Get some 0/1gauge power and ground.

Do the big 3 in 0/1 gauge.

Upgrade batt up front with a deka, kinetik, or a optima.

After those upgrades u should be good and than if u have slight dimming put the cap in.

 
When used properly a capacitor can and does help, but use it improperly and you may blow your system.
No. No. Not at all! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif

Like SO MANY OTHER FUCKING THREADS will explain, a capacitor is good for burps. Where quick discharging of power is necessary. In a daily environment, they act as nothing more but an input leveler to cut out the A/C spikes.

Now, whoever posted this thread (only read part of the third page), use the Search function. Odds are your stupid question has been asked and answered at least 50 times.

 
1)u don't need a new alt for 1200wrms.
2)Get some 0/1gauge power and ground.

Do the big 3 in 0/1 gauge.

3)Upgrade batt up front with a deka, kinetik, or a optima.

4)After those upgrades u should be good and than if u have slight dimming put the cap in.
This forum is proving a pool of knowledge and expertise today..!

Let me pick it apart:

1) It depends on his alt... if he has a 50 ampere alt, yes, he'll need a new alternator.

2) I'm running about 1200RMS in my car and I'm using 2 AWG. No dimming or voltage drops at the amps. "*GASP!* YOU DON'T ALWAYS NEED 0/1 AWG?!" No. No you don't.

3) Those aren't the best batteries, you know? They're good, but not the best. I have a Duralast Gold series, and it has a lot of power. You guys over-kill, and while over kill is never bad, it is never needed.

4) So, you're suggesting, even though there's an obvious gap in supply-to-use cycle, just put in a puddle in the river... The problem with this logic is that if supply doesn't >= Use, then eventually, there will not be enough power. Maybe not. But, I'm not willing to chance that with my own equipment, nor would I suggest anyone else to do that.

 
4) So, you're suggesting, even though there's an obvious gap in supply-to-use cycle, just put in a puddle in the river... The problem with this logic is that if supply doesn't >= Use, then eventually, there will not be enough power. Maybe not. But, I'm not willing to chance that with my own equipment, nor would I suggest anyone else to do that.
because music is dynamic and he will not be trying to pull full current constantly, while the alt CAN charge full current constantly, this ratio does not need to be 1:1, but rather varies depending on the music he listens to. Even rap with long hard bass hits is probably closer to an average power of 60-70% with the exception of the songs that are nonstop sine waves pretty much

tis why I can easily get away with 1k all day everyday on my 60 amp, 10 year old alt, even at idle

the 1.5k im running right now is too much for it, but I also listen to really bassy music alot of the time

 
because music is dynamic and he will not be trying to pull full current constantly, while the alt CAN charge full current constantly, this ratio does not need to be 1:1, but rather varies depending on the music he listens to. Even rap with long hard bass hits is probably closer to an average power of 60-70% with the exception of the songs that are nonstop sine waves pretty much
tis why I can easily get away with 1k all day everyday on my 60 amp, 10 year old alt, even at idle

the 1.5k im running right now is too much for it, but I also listen to really bassy music alot of the time
Of course it doesn't NEED a 1:1 ratio. But if your lights are dimming, then use > supply. These people spew "over-kill" but rather get a battery than an alternator, and it's really hypocritical. Just because it does work doesn't mean you should do it.

 
Of course it doesn't NEED a 1:1 ratio. But if your lights are dimming, then use > supply. These people spew "over-kill" but rather get a battery than an alternator, and it's really hypocritical. Just because it does work doesn't mean you should do it.
light dimming means you need more support power, not necessarily supply power

while adding more supply power is better, it is also much more costly in most circumstances, not only the cost of an alt, but the fact that you can't resell it for much if you even can find a buyer. Plus installation can be a hassle for some cars, like mine, and it's much easier to just buy and drop in a battery which can suffice in most cases

 
This forum is proving a pool of knowledge and expertise today..!
Let me pick it apart:

1) It depends on his alt... if he has a 50 ampere alt, yes, he'll need a new alternator.

2) I'm running about 1200RMS in my car and I'm using 2 AWG. No dimming or voltage drops at the amps. "*GASP!* YOU DON'T ALWAYS NEED 0/1 AWG?!" No. No you don't.

3) Those aren't the best batteries, you know? They're good, but not the best. I have a Duralast Gold series, and it has a lot of power. You guys over-kill, and while over kill is never bad, it is never needed.

4) So, you're suggesting, even though there's an obvious gap in supply-to-use cycle, just put in a puddle in the river... The problem with this logic is that if supply doesn't >= Use, then eventually, there will not be enough power. Maybe not. But, I'm not willing to chance that with my own equipment, nor would I suggest anyone else to do that.
1. im running 1000watts and im getting slight dimming, I need to get the big3 done. DOnt u think upgrading the alt would be "overkill". When he could do what i suggested and pry not have voltage problems after.

2. He said he was having voltage drops. The 0/1 guage is only gonna help the voltage, so why not upgrade with it all around.

3. They were suggestions, never said they were the best. But they are some of the better batt companies.

4. After all those upgrades, and hes getting tiny voltage drops(.1-.3), the cap will help stablize those drops.

 
The factory battery in my 03' Nissan Altima did not keep a charge after about 2 1/2 years. Car was under waranty.My ol' lady gave me a jump,car stoped at the gas station by her house.I parked car for the night at her place,I live in Alpine 26 miles away.After the jump,I removed the positive lead to the battery terminal(while car was running) and car continued to run,so I only needed a battery,not an alternator.The factory battery was a "Nissan" battery with 400 CCA.That is not a "high power" battery.The system I had in the car was Alpine-amps= 4 channel F-450 [70 rms x 4]/ M-650 1 channel[600] rms @2 ohms pushing 2 12w3-3-4 JL subs in a vented box. My lights dimmed some,when I pushed it hard.That same day, I went to Wal - Mart and bought their most powerful/expensive battery for the Altima...780 CCA..almost twice as big as the factory...5 year free replacement,after that,they pro-rate it.What a difference...dimming is gone...I now run 2 PDX Alpine amps 1000.1 /4x150 pushing 2'R' 12" subs in a vented box...still,no dimming....all this for $73.50.They install them for free at their shop.I had to drive my shiny new yellow/black battery back to the Altima.I installed it and difference was worth every dollar.I can play my car radio at a normal volume for my 8 hour shift and get in and start the car perfectly.New,powerful battery and the big 3 is the way to go...CAPS..optional.............Alpine 50...

 
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