Darth_Immitis
CarAudio.com Elite
Hamburgalur that b!tch!you can use some penetrating fluid and put your screwdriver in and tap it with a small hamburger lightly a dozen or so times to break it up should come out pretty easily after that
Hamburgalur that b!tch!you can use some penetrating fluid and put your screwdriver in and tap it with a small hamburger lightly a dozen or so times to break it up should come out pretty easily after that
I was going to edit it but it was just too good..Hamburgalur that b!tch!
Okay pretty sure 242 is blue. I’ll pick some up and apply a generous amount then.I used the 242..Yea it's about the surface area for bonding.
The 242 is a medium strength if you want the high-strength use the 272 but basically the threadlocker is just to keep the screws from backing out under vibration the top played on the 9500 and most larger drivers is used by the answer so you got plenty of surface area
And for good reason...not tryin' to burn up my tinsel leads or clip anything....oh why you may ask? Because I don't drive my stuff hard. Is this thread about me or tinseleadburner here?Then again, you're not loud and you're not really trying too hard.
Now why do we have to resort to name calling right away? I’m not trying to burn anything either. Hence the reason I order durable PSI soft parts for my woofers that I can abuse with almost no concern. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gifAnd for good reason...not tryin' to burn up my tinsel leads or clip anything....oh why you may ask? Because I don't drive my stuff hard. Is this thread about me or tinseleadburner here?
Oh it's bound to happen...in do time. You keep treating subs the way you are now without ANY more power....yeah it's bound to happen.Now why do we have to resort to name calling right away? I’m not trying to burn anything either. Hence the reason I order durable PSI soft parts for my woofers that I can abuse with almost no concern. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
He's just mad cuz you got to love shity 2500 that can't even push his SubsNow why do we have to resort to name calling right away? I’m not trying to burn anything either. Hence the reason I order durable PSI soft parts for my woofers that I can abuse with almost no concern. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
I'll sell you my 3500 for cheap bro I've been telling you I would sell it to you for cheap and it would push those subs hard esp at half ohm.So....it's funny that everyone is bitching about how I'm not running enough power but I'm the only one not complaining. I run with what I can afford. Yet your buying subs from DD for your own application...and you build your own drivers....the same guy who always says it's better built than bought. Now that's funny.
The problem is you will NOT have the same wind width or gauge if you have the same impedance coil. It's impossible. I repeat, aluminum should gain all things equal. Keep it in mind if you're building for numbers.Too many varibles money.. just changing the coils completely changes the woofer..And if you use the same winding height and gauge it was around 25% lighter.
As you say, spider separating would be disaster for embedded tinsels, though I don't think size would help there too much on a stitched tinsel. So you know, size isn't everything. I used to get some really small looking tinsels from Shocker Mike and he sold them to guys running crazy power and nobody ever smoked one. Sadly the company that made them has vanished and I don't know where to get comparable anymore, but the point being you don't need those thick flat ones to hang, just well made ones! And in TC's defense the power levels at which those failed were well above rated power, though it's still a shame since for only a few dollars more in cost of parts that didn't have to be the weak link.LMAO thank you. And I can totally agree that the OE TC leads are disgustingly small and the Fi Q I had had the notoriously failure prone woven leads... I haven’t personally blown DD leads. I purchased my 9518 from someone else who fried the leads out of it. The leads were actually repaired by the previous owner in a fashion very similar to what you mentioned but the sub was poorly reconed and the spider actually sepparated from the basket and ripped the tinsel leads off with it the last time. I can’t confirm that stock DD leads wouldn’t work for me as I’ve never tried them. They just look fairly small (similar to ones I’ve toasted in the past) and were already toasted once when I bought the sub so I figured I’d go ahead and get some PSI parts with the leads that have been proven to work well for me time and time again. This will be my 6th PSI cone I’ll hopefully enjoy as much as the first 5 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
I would NOT trust that. I always put a pea sized drop of CA glue on the edge of the bolt to the frame to keep it from backing out. It is easily broken with a screwdriver (used as a chisel) when you need to get the bolt off and a far more secure way to keep those bolts in place. I've seen a number of subs come from the factory with actual glue on the edge of the bolt, never found blue locktite in the threads.Off topic but it seems like the original topic has gone almost completely out the window at this point so quick question, when reuniting my basket with my motor should I just German Torque the screws down or add a little blue loctite to the mix?
I’m not sure how much power you expect it to take to fry the PSI leads in do time but I run 7k clamped daily on two TC 4hp 18s with PSI soft parts with the same triple tinsel leads and beat the hell out them all the time, just as previously stated I know when to stop playing them when they get too hot. I’ve gotten more than my money’s worth out of those recones now and they still sound great. Never had a problem yet.Oh it's bound to happen...in do time. You keep treating subs the way you are now without ANY more power....yeah it's bound to happen.
It’s funny how everyone is so concerned that I said in one post I clip my woofers even when I have stated that I have been able to do so reliably for years as long as I have the right soft parts.... you act like I’m frying a woofer every other day and that’s simply not the case. Stock cones usually last a while and if they do blow and get reconed (at least at this point) they have always lasted forever for me with PSI parts. Also not completely sure who this comment is addressed to but if it’s about me I’ve never said subs are always better built than bought, the most I’ve ever actually built a sub (hard parts) is making custom QCA rings for 12” TI baskets on my 4hps which wasn’t as easy process by any means but the point is I’m not tearing apart motors and making hybrid monsters or anything over here. So yes I bought a sub, technically it originated from DD but I paid les than 1/6th original retail price for this particular 9500 so I’m not that concerned that I had to recone it right away, the cone it came with was junk. From my experience I like the way PSI builds cones so yes I prefer to build my subs with their parts if a rebuild is necesssry. that doesn’t mean they are officially Better than anyone it’s just an opinion based on my experience.So....it's funny that everyone is bitching about how I'm not running enough power but I'm the only one not complaining. I run with what I can afford. Yet your buying subs from DD for your own application...and you build your own drivers....the same guy who always says it's better built than bought. Now that's funny.