DD 9500G more info?

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

you wanna burn up tinsel leads, just ask this guy...he'll show ya how.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Hell I've personally never blown a sub....or burned a tinsel lead. Hate to be in the same car with you while driving if your this abusive to speakers.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Throw all that out the window and TEST! You might be surprised. If I weren't mostly playing music I would be using Aluminum. In the Shocker motors aluminum coils gain .8 to 1.5dB.


Yikes. You absolutely should NOT be burning up tinsel leads in those. That said, if you do, you may well be able to just replace them... not sure what DD uses for glue but if you're creative you can usually replace that and keep running the sub.

I'll bet It was because of the suspension stiffness increased.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Many different amps many different subs. A few off the top of my head. A Fi Q 18 on an hfi2500d, a stock TC 4hp 15 on a shark 2500, and my buddy started my spiders on fire before on my 4HP later on with a psi cone on a bc5500 buh he was being an idiot so that doesn’t really count I guess. Many of my friends have had the same problem with various setups. 2 re *** 15s got tinsels fried by an APMI 2000. If I really sat and thought about it I could probably list more but it’s more of a general issue I’ve always found with single small leads vs double or triple leads. I have never blown psi triple leads yet. I normally run 2 PSI coned TC 4HP 18s now In my wall car on 1 BC5500 @ 0.25 demoing all day long sometimes (just pausing every few demos depending on how hot outside it is to let subs cool). That setup has been super reliable and does 154.4 over and over vented at 31hz deep into clipping.

Those OEM TC spiders used a very anemic tinsel. I have had one of them fail @ 3500W. As far as DD I can't believe you burned a tinsel in one of those. This is the first time I've heard anybody doing that to a DD. Of course a spider will go a while even after that and you don't have to bury the new tinsel to repair it. You just solder onto the direct lead or push terminal, poke a hole through the cone and then clean up with coil lead (with a knife, solvent and or heat) and solder up there. I've fixed an old Audioque sub for a guy who broke a tinsel.

I'll bet It was because of the suspension stiffness increased.

Nope. Same cone and spider, changing only the coil. Shocker Mike has reported similar gains.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Hell I've personally never blown a sub....or burned a tinsel lead.

Then again, you're not loud and you're not really trying too hard.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Those OEM TC spiders used a very anemic tinsel. I have had one of them fail @ 3500W. As far as DD I can't believe you burned a tinsel in one of those. This is the first time I've heard anybody doing that to a DD. Of course a spider will go a while even after that and you don't have to bury the new tinsel to repair it. You just solder onto the direct lead or push terminal, poke a hole through the cone and then clean up with coil lead (with a knife, solvent and or heat) and solder up there. I've fixed an old Audioque sub for a guy who broke a tinsel.


Nope. Same cone and spider, changing only the coil. Shocker Mike has reported similar gains.

Too many varibles money.. just changing the coils completely changes the woofer..

And if you use the same winding height and gauge it was around 25% lighter.

 

[familyguy9877]

Then again, you're not loud and you're not really trying too hard.

LMAO thank you. And I can totally agree that the OE TC leads are disgustingly small and the Fi Q I had had the notoriously failure prone woven leads... I haven’t personally blown DD leads. I purchased my 9518 from someone else who fried the leads out of it. The leads were actually repaired by the previous owner in a fashion very similar to what you mentioned but the sub was poorly reconed and the spider actually sepparated from the basket and ripped the tinsel leads off with it the last time. I can’t confirm that stock DD leads wouldn’t work for me as I’ve never tried them. They just look fairly small (similar to ones I’ve toasted in the past) and were already toasted once when I bought the sub so I figured I’d go ahead and get some PSI parts with the leads that have been proven to work well for me time and time again. This will be my 6th PSI cone I’ll hopefully enjoy as much as the first 5 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[familyguy9877]

Off topic but it seems like the original topic has gone almost completely out the window at this point so quick question, when reuniting my basket with my motor should I just German Torque the screws down or add a little blue loctite to the mix?

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Off topic but it seems like the original topic has gone almost completely out the window at this point so quick question, when reuniting my basket with my motor should I just German Torque the screws down or add a little blue loctite to the mix?

I made a video.lol

Locktite thread locker.

Coat the threads about a quarter of the way up.

Start the screws about 2 to 3 turns and then put more Loctite between the threads and threadolet.

screw it all the way in then back it almost all the way out. check the coverage.

If the adhesive completely Colts all the thread, screw it all the way back in as tight as you can(with a screwdeiver).

wipe off any excess that way if you do go to remove the bolts you don't have to fight when removing the adhesive in the head of the boat

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Y'all some f****** Cracker Jacks

 

[familyguy9877]

I made a video.lolLocktite thread locker.

Coat the threads about a quarter of the way up.

Start the screws about 2 to 3 turns and then put more Loctite between the threads and threadolet.

screw it all the way in then back it almost all the way out. check the coverage.

If the adhesive completely Colts all the thread, screw it all the way back in as tight as you can(with a screwdeiver).

wipe off any excess that way if you do go to remove the bolts you don't have to fight when removing the adhesive in the head of the boat

Okay cool thanks. With that much loctite how hard are they to remove later?

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Okay cool thanks. With that much loctite how hard are they to remove later?

you can use some penetrating fluid and put your screwdriver in and tap it with a small hamburger lightly a dozen or so times to break it up should come out pretty easily after that

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Speech-to-text is f****** insane

 

[familyguy9877]

you can use some penetrating fluid and put your screwdriver in and tap it with a small hamburger lightly a dozen or so times to break it up should come out pretty easily after that

I meant more like with loctite spread across all the threads? They still come out decently when you want them to? And you do mean blue loctite right?

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

I meant more like with loctite spread across all the threads? They still come out decently when you want them to? And you do mean blue loctite right?

I used the 242..

Yea it's about the surface area for bonding.

The 242 is a medium strength if you want the high-strength use the 272 but basically the threadlocker is just to keep the screws from backing out under vibration the top played on the 9500 and most larger drivers is used by the answer so you got plenty of surface area