crossover vs equalizer

[Flipx99 5,000+ posts]

What is the difference between the two?

I am looking at active setups and what I am trying to do is have one unit that works for subs, midbass, and tweeters. The mids will have to be bandpassed, of course.

I will only be using a sub amp and another amp for mids/tweeter. I was thinking I could do this one of two ways. I could "trick" my HU and have my 'rear RCA out' be used for my mids and 'front RCA outs' for my tweeter. But how would I connect that two one amp?

Or I could split the 'front RCA out' before it got to the amp. Such as split the L/R into a tweeter / midbass. However, I don't know how I could connect this to the amp either.

So, I was thinking maybe a equalizer would help. I am unsure if it is the same thing or what. I think my biggest problem is trying to power an active setup with one 2 channel amp.

Click to read more...

 

[Johnny Drama 5,000+ posts]

You would need a crossover. An Equalizer is for general tuning of the frequencies.

However, it wont work with your current setup only using a 2 channel amp. Your only choice would be to buy or make a set of passive crossovers.

 

[mikeyboc 10+ year member]

x2 on the 2 channel. US amps has a sweet 4 channel though that would work nicely if you want to sell that and upgrade. There are also a few external crossovers out there that come with a built in EQ as well.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

crossover is needed to put the frequencies to the right speakers eqs just mold the sound after everything is set up right

 

[Flipx99 5,000+ posts]

What if you tried this:

You have a front L / R 'rca out'. You could split the L and make it 'front' then split the right and make it 'mid' then have another 'y connector' combine the signal going to the amp. It would work, but you would lose the ability to control L and R.

 

[Johnny Drama 5,000+ posts]

What if you tried this:
You have a front L / R 'rca out'. You could split the L and make it 'front' then split the right and make it 'mid' then have another 'y connector' combine the signal going to the amp. It would work, but you would lose the ability to control L and R.

You would also have a mono front stage...Not a good idea. Your only option I see would be get another amp.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

lol that is nuts

 

[Flipx99 5,000+ posts]

You would also have a mono front stage...Not a good idea. Your only option I see would be get another amp.

Not sure how/why that is bad, but I will take your word for it. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Guess I will have to get a new amp....which sucks....paging flakko for another MD22...

 

[alphakenny1 10+ year member]

are you gonna use the 3 ways slcs that include a midbass, midrange and tweet right?

 

[mikeyboc 10+ year member]

are you gonna use the 3 ways slcs that include a midbass, midrange and tweet right?

Good question. With 3 ways, you will need a total of 6 amp channels for a full active set up, or you can run a active/passive combo off of 4.

 

[Flipx99 5,000+ posts]

Good question. With 3 ways, you will need a total of 6 amp channels for a full active set up, or you can run a active/passive combo off of 4.

That depends...I won't be using the midbass or the tweeter from the SLC definitely.

The setup depends on the car.

The grand prixs have q-logic kick panels where I would place the midrange. If I buy a GP, I will have to buy a 6 channel amp (like the Diamond Audio in the classifieds). However, I would get probably the cal 26 tweeter in this app, as the cal 27 doesn't look like it would mount well in the pre-fabbed kick panel. With the midrange and tweeter in the kick and the midbass in the door.

If I buy the buick regal, I won't be using any of this SLC set. I will get either the phase cone (or the germ) + the cal 27 tweeter, both of which are in the door in factory locations.

The germ midbass vs. the profi phase cone midbass is still trying to be decided as I don't know which would sound better in a simple deadened door. I know some mids need to be is sealed or vented apps.

I have tried 'glassing door pods once and it worked okay. I don't want to do it to a nice car though.

 

[alphakenny1 10+ year member]

yea you should find out what you are going to get first then you can go on deciding on amplification and processing.

just a suggestion, if going fully active with a 3 way + sub you probably need a 4 way xover. if going with a 4 way active front stage. there are lots of ways to get it done but it is preferred to get the h701 or p9 combo as you have absolute control of each speaker.

if you are going to be using a combination of active and passive with a 3 way + sub then i'd suggest getting an HU with a 3 way xover. if going with a 2 way + sub, the i'd suggest getting an HU with a 3 way xover.

edit: also to answer the original question, the equalizer is used to fine tune a system. a crossover will let certain frequencies to each speaker pass through.

 

[Flipx99 5,000+ posts]

yea you should find out what you are going to get first then you can go on deciding on amplification and processing.
just a suggestion, if going fully active with a 3 way + sub you probably need a 4 way xover. if going with a 4 way active front stage. there are lots of ways to get it done but it is preferred to get the h701 or p9 combo as you have absolute control of each speaker.

I see. If I bought the GP and went 4 way active with the P9 combo, I would still need the following:

2 channel amp -->midbass

4 channel amp -->midrange + tweeter

1 channel amp -->sub

In the 4 way active scenario, you basically need 3 amps, or a 7 channel (if that even exists)

 

[alphakenny1 10+ year member]

I see. If I bought the GP and went 4 way active with the P9 combo, I would still need the following:
2 channel amp -->midbass

4 channel amp -->midrange + tweeter

1 channel amp -->sub

In the 4 way active scenario, you basically need 3 amps, or a 7 channel (if that even exists)

it also depends on how much power your sub needs. if it doesn't need that power to get going then you probably can use either two 4 channel amps in which obviously you bridge to channels to sub and the rest is to your speakers. or also a 5 channel amp to run sub, midrange, tweet and a nice big two channel to run the midbass.

 

[Flipx99 5,000+ posts]

it also depends on how much power your sub needs. if it doesn't need that power to get going then you probably can use either two 4 channel amps in which obviously you bridge to channels to sub and the rest is to your speakers. or also a 5 channel amp to run sub, midrange, tweet and a nice big two channel to run the midbass.

That is something to think about. I already have the MD3 and MD22.

I could keep the MD22 (BNIB) and maybe trade the MD3 (which is still BNIB) for a 5 channel and it may work out well. Do you have any that you reccomend. I am thinking 600@ 1 is all a man really needs for daily SQL.