Crossover Dilemmas

[Oldbasshead]

So I have a unique question. Well, hell, it may not be that unique these days, but it's got me a little stumped. Is anyone successfully moderating frequencies on a single crossover that is running two different sub amps in two different boxes?

Hear me out on this. I know it's stupid, but there's a method behind my madness. I installed a single 10" Kicker Solobaric and 800W Kicker amp in my little 2019 Mazda 3 about a year ago when I got back into installing aftermarket components. The Kicker actually sounds impressive for being such a tiny little beastie, but it lacked that soul-shaking deep bass that I was after. So I switched to a 1500W amp and two 12's. Got that bass that rattles your bones, but the I missed those sweet frequencies from the Kicker. So I added it back to the mix. Zero trunk space aside, it sounds absolutely insane now. People expect to see a Yukon blasting some 18's at red lights when I pull up. The look on their face when they see it's me is priceless.

Anyhow, sorry for rambling. I run my RCA's through a SSL 3-way crossover, which runs to my Memphis PRXA1500.1, then daisy chains to my Kicker 800. I'm only using the bass ins/outs on the crossover since the rest of my car is currently just a stock Bose 13-speaker system with the factory amp. I'm running into issues where the 55'ish Hz range will just about rattle your soul from your body, but the higher frequencies that my Kicker handles really well is cut off, otherwise my bass is just a muddy mess. I can't seem to find a balance and it's driving me mad.

Should I split the incoming RCA's and have my 12's running through the sub channel, and my 10 running to the rear channel? Would that make any difference? The rear channel is very limited on available functions, but at this point I'm willing to try anything to get things sounding "right" to my ears.

Also, just for the record, I'm drawing up plans for a custom enclosure, so the monstrosity that's in my trunk will eventually be tamed. But, for now, I'm trying to work with what I've got.

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[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Should I split the incoming RCA's and have my 12's running through the sub channel, and my 10 running to the rear channel?

I think this method should work. As an add on, let the Kicker play 80Hz and above and the 12s 80Hz and below. Set the slope for the Kicker at 12 dB for a wider overlap.

 

[Grimmjoww]

I think your idea will work as long as the crossover can limit higher frequency's out. You can also just get another crossover or use the Memphis amp crossover and save the the active for your kicker amp or vice versa.

 

[Oldbasshead]

I think your idea will work as long as the crossover can limit higher frequency's out. You can also just get another crossover or use the Memphis amp crossover and save the the active for your kicker amp or vice versa.

I know amps have come a loooooong way since the old school ones I used to use with much better crossovers, low pass filters, etc., but I still just really like the extra control of an active crossover. It took everything I had in my soul to NOT buy a physical EQ for my system and just use an app instead. Some habits will just never die!

I'm going to try splitting the RCA inputs and trying the bass and rear channels on the crossover. Fingers crossed.

 

[chillin 10+ year member]

A physical eq isn't the worst thing as is much easier to adjust on the fly.

 

[Oldbasshead]

A physical eq isn't the worst thing as is much easier to adjust on the fly.

If I were running custom aftermarket components like I did 20 years ago, I'd definitely have one in the loop. But now I run everything through the "infotainment" system in my car and I found that Poweramp EQ works surprisingly well. With Spotify, at least.

 

[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

I think your response curve has more to do with cabin gain then crossovers.

 

[Oldbasshead]

I think your response curve has more to do with cabin gain then crossovers.

I've got the premium version and it comes with a customizable EQ (graphic or parametric) plus a limiter. Since I'm running a LOC, the changes are made globally and since I'm still using my factory Bose system, the bass overpowers all the cabin speakers, lol, so it's essentially like having an EQ for just the subs.

 

[Jimi77 5,000+ posts]

I've got the premium version and it comes with a customizable EQ (graphic or parametric) plus a limiter. Since I'm running a LOC, the changes are made globally and since I'm still using my factory Bose system, the bass overpowers all the cabin speakers, lol, so it's essentially like having an EQ for just the subs.

Then EQ for flatter response. You didn't say what 12s you're running buy any decent 12" sub should have decent response up to ~100hz.

 

[Oldbasshead]

Then EQ for flatter response. You didn't say what 12s you're running buy any decent 12" sub should have decent response up to ~100hz.

Yep, only the highs are a bit elevated so I can at least still sort of hear the cabin speakers! The subs are Skar EVL-12's which have a really decent low-end bass response for the price but is pretty *meh* around 100Hz. The Solobaric really seems to hammer those higher frequencies which is why I have both systems installed. I know, I'm a moron and have nobody but myself to blame for the situation I'm in.