Creating a **** effect for L7 box.

[orphe 10+ year member]

You going to paint it?

as long as I get to paint it black it all good

 

[kicker06 10+ year member]

Shoulda Fiberglassed?

 

[lincolnls 10+ year member]

you do realize that when you put the subs in there and screw it in you will have to drill threw the metal too right?

also if you wnat to remove the sub you will have loads of fun //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[squeak12 10+ year member]

I would recommend high build primer, the best you can get.

 

[baseballer1100 5,000+ posts]

as long as I get to paint it black it all good

Ok just wondering.

 

[azbass 5,000+ posts]

it will probably maybe crack , and not just from the woofers. next time mix the bondo with resin, or use fiberglass.

 

[kicker06 10+ year member]

Why will he have to drill through metal? The aluminum templates are vertical to the box..

 

[yne721 10+ year member]

**** thats a lot of work.

wouldn't have been that much work had he been not so sloppy on the laying down of it...

looks nice though, what color paint?

and it seems like a lot of people on here go straight from like 120ish to 400ish.

speaking from plenty of experience(mostly high gloss black paintjobs) 120 does make scratches that 400 can't always sand out. i'm not saying everytime, but it's a good idea of getting in the habit of running over the 120 with 220 real quick. just a scuff is usually good enough...

just a tip, and it's just my .02

 

[orphe 10+ year member]

you do realize that when you put the subs in there and screw it in you will have to drill threw the metal too right?

the metal pops out. remember I used clamps to hold it in place

 

[maldecido33 10+ year member]

it would have been exponentially easier to stretch some fleece, resin it, then use a little bit of bondo to smooth it

 

[yne721 10+ year member]

it would have been exponentially easier to stretch some fleece, resin it, then use a little bit of bondo to smooth it

x2

and probably more solid too....

really thick layers of bondo that either aren't prepared correctly or given time to harden correctly usually don't work out too well.

too much hardener and the bondo could crack easily(especially in a constantly vibrating application) and if you don't let the bondo set for a good ammount of time it could still shrink the next day, then it will just look nasty

 

[baseballer1100 5,000+ posts]

So sometimes you dont even need fiberglass mat?

 

[orphe 10+ year member]

it would have been exponentially easier to stretch some fleece, resin it, then use a little bit of bondo to smooth it

bondo is waay cheaper than resin

$15*2 for 2 cans of bondo, about $12 in sandpaper

vs.

$30 fiberglass resin+ $15 bondo + fiberglass+ brushes and so on and so on and so on

 

[squeak12 10+ year member]

For just a frame, IMO, no. I would only use fiberglass for boxes and things that need a lot of structural integrity.

 

[seg_representin 10+ year member]

What are the box plans for that? and whats the size and tuning?