Car Audio + Rims = Bad Idea?

[Enellz 10+ year member]

my 20s are fine with 3 amps, 2 subs, and a box in my trunk...

my system:

so you dont have no problems with weight

 

[Torgus 10+ year member]

none at all. i am dropped on aftermarket spring/struts fwiw. but i have 0 problems. oh and braking kinda sucks with big heavy wheels...

 

[thorshammer1 10+ year member]

Personally I stuck with 18's for my GP. I did upgrade my struts to custom air ride struts in the rear to bring my car bak up to original ride height. With all the weight I was sagging 2.5inches for so.

 

[Enellz 10+ year member]

none at all. i am dropped on aftermarket spring/struts fwiw. but i have 0 problems. oh and braking kinda sucks with big heavy wheels...

How much did your suspension work run you?

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

nice car audioholic.

Thanks bro.

 

[keiffith 10+ year member]

Think there was a Beretta "GTZ". Like in '89 maybe, can't remember for sure.

there were many beretta models

base, GT, GTU, Indy, GTZ, Z26.

GTZs were out from 90-93, overtaken by the Z26 in 94, but where essentialy the same car with just different decals.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

I have 22's and have towed a F150 on a car hauler no problem. My tires are 305/40 R22.

 

[Enellz 10+ year member]

I have 22's and have towed a F150 on a car hauler no problem. My tires are 305/40 R22.

stock springs

 

[Torgus 10+ year member]

How much did your suspension work run you?

bout $600 for parts, i did all the labor myself. pretty cheap. there's alot more out there i can buy for the maxima, suspension wise, but i'm not sure if i really want to invest any more into it...i'm already as low as i want to go...maybe if i get a good deal on some coilovers i'll pick em up just so i can adjut it more...

 

[donpisto 5,000+ posts]

OP, the answers to your question have already been mentioned...I'll quote them all in this post. I'm not sure how much more clarification you need but it's pretty black and white.

your speedometer and odometer will loose a bit of accuracy.

Get coilovers, balances what you got in the trunk and you can raise/lower any side or the front or rear. Gas mileage will decrease of course, so will your acceleration, braking, and cornering. I'm not joking either...unsprung weight is a two word reason.

speedometer should be fine if you wheel/tire combo are that same height as stock
you will notice a difference in ride due to lower profile tires

added weight of the wheel could make you use more gas

overall 20's wont hurt much

its all depends on your ride and weight from system to be real and yes the flashier your ride the more attention from unwanted folks it will bring you can match up 20 inch rim/tires to rotate the same as stock and have the same mount of revilations as stock you will need to consult your local tires shop or call up a discount tire they can walk you threw the process and explain it better than i can

with 500lbs you will squat a good bit. the only time you would really have to worry would be ruff roads and stuffing the tire into the wheel well on them

It varies depending on the amount of weight you add to the vehicle itself, and the amount of weight you add in the unsprung mass department.
You can expect longer distances to come to a complete stop from forward motion, slower acceleration and a dip in your gas milage.

There are other 'unsung' issues as well. Some vehicles (usually smaller sport compacts) will have issues with their transmissions due to the extra stress, and you will probably see some issues with camber/toe. Camber and Toe can be corrected, luckily.

CV axles will have a shorter lifespan as well.

...BUT

This depends greatly on the starting wheel weights/overall sizes, and actual vehicle.

If you can get past those issues (I have, several times...), then go for it.

It's all down to personal taste, budget and willingness.

I went from factory 15" wheels to MUCH wider 20" wheels with 225/35 tires in the front and 245/35 tires in the rear. I added a considerable amount of weight (+20lbs per corner), but really only noticed the excess on quick stops at highway speeds. I went from 27-28mpg to 24-25mpg.

Very true. Though it's hard to get the exact same, so you should focus to get a combo that will be within 3%, I try to do within 1%. My stocks were 215/55/17 and my 20's when I had them on were 245/35/20.
Here is a good calculator. Even changing the width of the tire will make a difference, it's not just the rim size or the profile of the tire. http://www.1010tires.com/tiresizecalculator.asp

That's alot of weight. Your cars rear end will sag for sure. Get coiliovers, not springs, because springs settle. Also here is something else to think about. When you get 20's, your camber is going to change and so will the toe. I went back to stock wheels because my camber was off, it was -2.0 degrees in the rear and -2.5 in the front. It should be no more than -1.0 so that you don't deal with too much inner tire wear.
If you have a bad camber, you will have to invest in a camber kit which can cost anywhere from 200 - 550 bucks for the pair without install and new alignment. And in order to know whether you need a camber kit for either the front or rear, you need alignment. Wish I knew all this stuff before I purchased 20's, I regret getting mine, in fact, I'm selling them.

SUMMARY: If you are on a stock suspension, it will sag. You will lose gas mileage due to the added weight of the rims and system, braking distance and time will decrease, acceleration will decrease, cornering will be affected (if taken at higher speeds), the size of the tires and the actual quality of the tire will make a difference in ride quality, camber and toe can be off (leading to horrible inner tire wear), it is more flashy and attracts more attention.... those are all the negative aspects. As for positive, well, only one I can think of is that it can make the vehicle look nicer.

*EDIT: Even on aftermarket suspension it can sag. Coilovers are pricey but you can adjust the height. Also aftermarket springs will sag overtime as well, so keep that in mind

 

[Enellz 10+ year member]

OP, the answers to your question have already been mentioned...I'll quote them all in this post. I'm not sure how much more clarification you need but it's pretty black and white.

I get all that. I was now asking how much suspension work would cost, which has to been answered. I wouldve got my answer quicker if didn't turn out into 'my d*ck is bigger than your thread'. Overall helpful, just too much other stuff in the thread.

 

[donpisto 5,000+ posts]

Cost varies on what you need and your vehicle. I'd recommend coilovers, again, because you won't have the issue of sagging as you can adjust the rear height or any specific side as much you need so your car is leveled.

You may need a camber kit as well if you have your camber is off by more than 1 degree. You would need to get alignment to determine that. All aspects of your suspension should be within spec, so the toe needs to be within spec as well.

Other suspension parts arent really necsesary, such as sway bars or strut bars (for your case).

 

[Torgus 10+ year member]

what kind of car is it again??

 

[Loud3 10+ year member]

Cost varies on what you need and your vehicle. I'd recommend coilovers, again, because you won't have the issue of sagging as you can adjust the rear height or any specific side as much you need so your car is leveled.
You may need a camber kit as well if you have your camber is off by more than 1 degree. You would need to get alignment to determine that. All aspects of your suspension should be within spec, so the toe needs to be within spec as well.

Other suspension parts arent really necsesary, such as sway bars or strut bars (for your case).

Depending on the brand/specifics of the coilover... if he decides to go that way...

Most 'nice' coilovers are adjustable for camber/toe as well as height and rebound.

So, that should eliminate the need for a camber kit.

I have/had KSports, which are a bit on the budget side, but they still worked fine for making the fender meet the wheel, and they kept my front end within factory spec for camber.

 

[Loud3 10+ year member]

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This thread should be cleaned up.

And stickied.