Capacitors? Where's the proof?

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

Your headlights will draw around 30A. I seriously doubt that your alt is smaller than 70A and probably closer to 100A.

 

[Subcut]

So I got it all set up, and somehow I have enough power to run the wipers, headlights, and bump the bass full blast and nothing dims whatsoever. Overall I found myself very satisfied with the whole setup, more than loud enough to meet my needs.

Also the person who owned the truck before I did had a subwoofer system installed with two ten inch subs, so it's possible that the alternator was previously upgraded.

Also @helotaxi, I got a manual for my truck specifying a 50A stock alternator, 60A stock if you opted for the premium package with power windows and all that. I mean this is Isuzu were talking about, the engine is a carbureted four cylinder, it was the last company to stop using carburetors. It's engine design for my 1992 model year is the same basic design used all the way back in the 80s only change is they switched to an electronic feedback based carb for later models. Hell the engine doesn't even have an ECM controller unit unless it was sold in California for emissions reasons.

 

[GNVINNY]

I actually came across this thread while looking up something else and figure Id give my input.Caps can help in a sense of audio but not in the way the avg person thinks.I think as far as storage capacity and discharge rate there a waste.The alternator Makes AC and converts it to DC using the diodes inside.You get alternator noise do to some Ac signal getting into the Power lines, bad grounds I even seen amps power supply freq bother other amps giving them noise.Anyway caps can help in getting that AC signal out (THEY WILL NOT HELP IN ENGINE NOISE),they help filter it out.But then you have the battery Acting as the big filter.If its ran inline with the alternator or near it then yes it has a sense to it.That's the only thing I can think about.Back in the day mid 80's amps needed the caps for the power supply and people came along turned it into something else.I just upgrade the alternator depending on what im doing and put two batteries and never have diming or any problems.Also you have to realize people want to make money doing what they do.Like when I do a bandpass in a trunk,who just wants to look at a piece of plexi and some carpet.It looks dull.The cap distribution block wires etc make it look nice.That's what people like.I added pictures not to show off or anything Just to give an idea of what Im talking about.Like a customer opens the truck and just sees 2 10's on a piece of wood,they want it flashy its the business.

 

[RAM_Designs 5,000+ posts]

I don't see how this can be worse than not having one. The amp will draw the same power whether from the cap or from the alternator.
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GTFO spammer.

 

[VWBobby 10+ year member]

Your headlights will draw around 30A. I seriously doubt that your alt is smaller than 70A and probably closer to 100A.

The stock generator for VW's was only 30A on the 12V systems and even less than that on the 6V systems. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif By '73 they finally got a real alternator that produced a whopping 50A.

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

Which is why the headlights, among other things, on those cars were a joke. IIRC it was also a generator, not an alternator, and played no part in sustaining the engine. All it needed to do was recharge the battery after the car was started and then power what few accessories the car had.

 

[VWBobby 10+ year member]

The 30A system was a generator, the 50A system was an alternator. The stock headlights are a joke. If you upgrade to H1 55w or 60w bulbs, it doesn't increase the strain at all and its as bright as a modern car. Your statement about a car's battery draining within a few weeks or a few months earlier is incorrect. On a MODERN car with clocks, ECU memory and other devices that drain power from the system - yes. On a pre-electronics car (pre-1984), the battery can last at least a year or 2 if stored indoors. Corrosion and oxidation is what kills batteries that are stored.... They don't lose current just because they haven't been drained in a few weeks/months. As long as the battery hasn't corroded, it still has the same potential energy, as long as the water hasn't evaporated which is a non-issue in an AGM battery.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

6 pages. This thread is not concise enough to warrant a sticky any longer imo.

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

I think you just need to create a thread with this link in it, then sticky & lock it.

Why Capacitors don't work. Period.