Can quality 0/1 ofc be ram from starter to battery?

Its not necessary. Normally the 8-4 ga wire used is large enough to spin the starter with plenty of power. The starter only spins and kicks in momentarily to start the vehicle/turn the motor, and stops after disingaging the ignition unless it gets stuck LOl,. Doesnt need power constantly like your electrical system does in order to work.
 
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The factory cable was oxidized like 8” from the battery, so it had to be replaced. I didn’t have enough 4ga to do it, so I had to use 0/1.
Its not necessary. Normally the 8-4 ga wire used is large enough to spin the starter with plenty of power. The starter only spins and kicks in momentarily to start the vehicle/turn the motor, and stops after disingaging the ignition unless it gets stuck LOl,. Doesnt need power constantly like your electrical system does in order to work.
 
I wouldn't do it because i prefer to keep oem wiring intact. It also depends on your connections and wire protection. I wouldn't rely on a crimped connection long-term.

I'm in the same boat as you are: i have ~100ft of 1/0 and corroded oem cables. I'm holding out for oem stuff.
 
If you do that, make sure you use really high end ring terminals. You don't want a 0 gauge wire flopping around in your engine bay if the wire comes off the starter.
I don't see this being an issue. The wire shouldn't be hot unless he has the key in the start position, and the risk of damage is probably less with a high-end 1/0 than with an oem cable due to strand size and stiffness. Sounds like another vote for OEM, however.

I disagree with the guys who say the vehicle doesn't "need" thicker cable, however. Every electrical circuit benefits from better conductors.
 
I don't see this being an issue. The wire shouldn't be hot unless he has the key in the start position, and the risk of damage is probably less with a high-end 1/0 than with an oem cable due to strand size and stiffness. Sounds like another vote for OEM, however.

I disagree with the guys who say the vehicle doesn't "need" thicker cable, however. Every electrical circuit benefits from better conductors.

Most battery to starter runs are always hot. It only gets switched inside the starter. So yea securing the 1/0 and having solid terminals can be important considering 1/0 can dump 300+ amps through whatever part it finds ground through
 
I don't see this being an issue. The wire shouldn't be hot unless he has the key in the start position, and the risk of damage is probably less with a high-end 1/0 than with an oem cable due to strand size and stiffness. Sounds like another vote for OEM, however.

I disagree with the guys who say the vehicle doesn't "need" thicker cable, however. Every electrical circuit benefits from better conductors.

Things under the hood go through many heat cycles, and I wouldn't trust just a regular cheap 0 gauge ring terminal for years and years on the starter. That's what I mean. There are different quality ring terminals, for sure.
 
Most battery to starter runs are always hot. It only gets switched inside the starter. So yea securing the 1/0 and having solid terminals can be important considering 1/0 can dump 300+ amps through whatever part it finds ground through
You're probably right. In my defense: I was working on my 1993 Ford with a starter solenoid when i posted that.
 
Things under the hood go through many heat cycles, and I wouldn't trust just a regular cheap 0 gauge ring terminal for years and years on the starter. That's what I mean. There are different quality ring terminals, for sure.
Hot as in energized, not temperature.
 
Only concern I would have is making sure the terminated ends of the wire are sealed well. Heat shrink is usually sufficient. I know here in Iowa, exposed copper wire on a cheap wire terminal would corrode quickly on the underside of an engine. I would definitely use a lug that's sealed on the end.

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