How to wire 6x9s with active subwoofer

[james_90]

Hi everyone

I have a Vibe active subwoofer and a Pioneer MVH-AV290BT head unit (images below) to install in my 2005 Mercedes c220. I think I understand how to wire these. I'm also looking to get a pair of 6x9s to go on the parcel shelf.

The amp is built into the back of the subwoofer and there seem to be no outputs like a stand alone amp. Would it be a good idea to get an amp or could I wire the 6x9s straight to the head unit? If I can wire them to the head unit, can someone please advise which wire connects to which or link me to an easy guide? Also, if I can wire directly to the head unit, would I need to choose 6x9s or a particular power/resistance?

Thanks!

Click to read more...

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

Bruh WTF?

 

[james_90]

Bruh WTF?

I knew I had no idea what I'm doing but guess it's even worse than I thought

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

I knew I had no idea what I'm doing but guess it's even worse than I thought

Is that black plug specific for your car, or did it come with the radio? Your 6x9s AND sub setup can be connected concurrently. Are there factory wires at the parcel shelf?

 

[james_90]

Is that black plug specific for your car, or did it come with the radio? Your 6x9s AND sub setup can be connected concurrently. Are there factory wires at the parcel shelf?

The black plug is the wiring harness I got for my specific car. Ok great, how would I go about doing that? There are no speakers/wiring there at present

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

how would I go about doing that?

From the back of the radio, you have to run 2 sets of speaker wires to the back shelf, 1 set of RCAs for the powered subwoofer, and a blue wire for amp remote turn on. Splice speaker and amp wires using diagram below. The radio may have subwoofer out RCA plugs, plug RCA cables into those. If it does not, use the rear RCA outputs.

Now run a 4 AWG power cable from battery to the trunk with a 100 amp fuse within 1 foot of the battery. Leave fuse out till the end. In the trunk, look for a nut to pinch a negative 4 AWG wire with terminal. Make sure ground point is sanded to clean metal. After this, wiring powered sub is straight forward.

 

[james_90]

From the back of the radio, you have to run 2 sets of speaker wires to the back shelf, 1 set of RCAs for the powered subwoofer, and a blue wire for amp remote turn on. Splice speaker and amp wires using diagram below. The radio may have subwoofer out RCA plugs, plug RCA cables into those. If it does not, use the rear RCA outputs.View attachment 33216
Now run a 4 AWG power cable from battery to the trunk with a 100 amp fuse within 1 foot of the battery. Leave fuse out till the end. In the trunk, look for a nut to pinch a negative 4 AWG wire with terminal. Make sure ground point is sanded to clean metal. After this, wiring powered sub is straight forward.

From the back of the radio, you have to run 2 sets of speaker wires to the back shelf, 1 set of RCAs for the powered subwoofer, and a blue wire for amp remote turn on. Splice speaker and amp wires using diagram below. The radio may have subwoofer out RCA plugs, plug RCA cables into those. If it does not, use the rear RCA outputs.View attachment 33216
Now run a 4 AWG power cable from battery to the trunk with a 100 amp fuse within 1 foot of the battery. Leave fuse out till the end. In the trunk, look for a nut to pinch a negative 4 AWG wire with terminal. Make sure ground point is sanded to clean metal. After this, wiring powered sub is straight forward.

Thanks for your help

To clarify:

- Power cable with fuse from battery to sub
- Ground cable from sub to chassis
- RCAs from RSW out on head unit to RCA in on sub
- 2 sets of speaker wires by tapping into the rear R/L +/- wires behind the HU leading to back shelf - Do these then connect straight to the 6x9s? What do you mean be splicing the speaker and amp wires?
- Remote wire from sub to blue wire behind HU by tapping in - I was orginially planning to wire this from the sub straight to the fuse box which I think is located in the trunk using an 'add-a-fuse'. Is the other method better?

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Power cable with fuse from battery to sub
- Ground cable from sub to chassis
- RCAs from RSW out on head unit to RCA in on sub
- 2 sets of speaker wires by tapping into the rear R/L +/- wires behind the HU leading to back shelf - Do these then connect straight to the 6x9s?

Yes to all.

What do you mean be splicing the speaker and amp wires?

Splicing means wiring/tapping into.

Remote wire from sub to blue wire behind HU by tapping in

Yes.

I was orginially planning to wire this from the sub straight to the fuse box which I think is located in the trunk using an 'add-a-fuse'. Is the other method better?

It is better because you will not add a load to the OEM cable leading back there. Also, you may get hooked on bass and want to go bigger in the future. That is how most of us in this forum got started. The gateway "I only need a little bass" setup.

 

[DRBOOM]

IMHO, If you plan to use your stock unit ,then seriously think about getting a audison bit 10, or even a bit 1 as it will increase voltage from your puny head unit power. If you decide to use the stock radio and just tap into the rear speaker for audio signal, the outcome would be weak bass, as the voltage from the head unit feeds the signal to the external amplifier and it will not be enough. Consequently, you will need to crank up the gain to get some volume. Give it a go but if you are not satisfied, then it may be an option to consider.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

If you plan to use your stock unit

I have a Vibe active subwoofer and a Pioneer MVH-AV290BT head unit

 

[james_90]

Yes to all.

Splicing means wiring/tapping into.

Yes.

It is better because you will not add a load to the OEM cable leading back there. Also, you may get hooked on bass and want to go bigger in the future. That is how most of us in this forum got started. The gateway "I only need a little bass" setup.

Ok great, thanks again for all the advice.

Can definitely see that happening!

Going to wire in the sub and HU tomorrow and install the wiring to the rear shelf, then next step will be to choose the 6x9s

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

then next step will be to choose the 6x9s

AudioLegion.com has some pretty nice ones on sale right now.

 

[james_90]

AudioLegion.com has some pretty nice ones on sale right now.

AudioLegion.com has some pretty nice ones on sale right now.

Thanks for that but i'm based in the UK so will need to look for some a bit closer..

I finished wiring the sub and the HU today. The bass sounds great Also got the wiring in place ready to install the 6x9s to the shelf.

Made a black trim to fill the gap around the HU with a plastic 'drain guard' Had the perfect curvature!

Couple of things I'm not sure about:

- The 12v ignition switch wire (pink one) was not getting power at all. Apparently this is normal for this car, so I tapped into the cigarette lighter wire for this. I used an 8 amp cable as it said it was suitable for cigarette lighters on the box. However, it wasn't very thick and I'm wondering if 8 amp wire is enough? Or does the HU take its power from the 12v constant wire once turned on?

- The specs of this HU say 4x50w. I understand I will need to choose 6x9s as close to this power as possible. However, I'm guessing the current 'rear' wires that I tapped into leading to the back shelf power the read door speakers. So would I need to choose the 6x9s so that the sum of each door speaker and 6x9 is around 50w? Or would I be better of just disconnecting the rear door speakers leaving all the power to the 6x9s?

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Made a black trim to fill the gap around the HU with a plastic 'drain guard' Had the perfect curvature!

When I saw the first picture I thought, "Looks good, OEM".

wondering if 8 amp wire is enough?

Yes, it only powers a solid state relay. The main power comes from the yellow wire.

4x50w. I understand I will need to choose 6x9s as close to this power as possible.

Yes. Another main specification to look for is that sensetivity is 90db and above. The higher the better.

I'm guessing the current 'rear' wires that I tapped into leading to the back shelf power the read door speakers. So would I need to choose the 6x9s so that the sum of each door speaker and 6x9 is around 50w? Or would I be better of just disconnecting the rear door speakers leaving all the power to the 6x9s?

The plot thickens. The radio will not able to handle two sets of speakers per channel. Are the rear door speakers lacking? I would instead upgrade the front speakers and leave the parcel shelf as is. It lets the sub's sound travel easier into the cabin. I thought you were lacking a rear stage.

 

[james_90]

When I saw the first picture I thought, "Looks good, OEM".

Yes, it only powers a solid state relay. The main power comes from the yellow wire.

Yes. Another main specification to look for is that sensetivity is 90db and above. The higher the better.

The plot thickens. The radio will not able to handle two sets of speakers per channel. Are the rear door speakers lacking? I would instead upgrade the front speakers and leave the parcel shelf as is. It lets the sub's sound travel easier into the cabin. I thought you were lacking a rear stage.

At first I didn't think there were any rear speakers but it seems there is 2 sets in each door (2-door car). I'm guessing ones at the back of the door are powered by the 'rear' wires. These do not sound good at all and the sound fires out below the hips into the seats. What do you think about me upgrading the front 6.5" in the door, disconecing the rear door ones and having 6x9s on the rear shelf? The rear of the car is quite big and open so hopefully that would help the sound travel.