Calculating Aero Port Length

[Wiz Khalifla_85]

Would it be ok for the inside flare to be near the driver like in the pic? Actually it's going to be an inch closer to the driver. 18"

If it's ok then I'm just going to go this route. The 90 elbow is going to be a pita..

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

That will be fine. Honestly I'd skip the inside flare. You have a nice big port and low power, the flares aren't necessary. That pic I took of the 90 elbow on the port tube is 17.5 inches down the center, pretty much the same size as what you need. I would push the sub as far to the left as it will go and push the outer flare as far to the right and put them on the same face, but either configuration will work fine. The nice thing about box designing and building is that it doesn't have to be 100% perfect. 

 

[2RZ-FE 10+ year member]

What is foam core PVC? Looking for 4" and that seems to be the white stuff and is foam core. 

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

What is foam core PVC? Looking for 4" and that seems to be the white stuff and is foam core. 

Foam core has to do with the plumbing industry and how the pipe is designed to be used. It's pretty much the standard type of pvc out there in hardware stores and isn't designed to carry more than 5psi of pressure inside. It's not something important to worry about for car audio installs. 

 

[Wiz Khalifla_85]

Just finished the build.. Is it okay to have the inside port facing the corner like in the image below? Only way to keep as far as possible from the driver.

View attachment 2090

 

[Jcsaudio]

nope, it has to be at least the same distance away from the opening of the port as the diameter is. Example: 4" port must be at least 4" away from obstructions. Turn that ***** around and face it into the box. 

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

Spin it around, it will be fine below the woofer. Every build has a compromise somewhere along the way. 

Make sure the flare is sealed well. I think I see some areas that might leak.

 

[Wiz Khalifla_85]

Flare is sealed up good. I'd have to cut the dowel to swing the port around. What I have now is a no no?

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

Spin it around until it hits the dowel and post up a pic. Its definitely too choked off in the corner as it currently sits.

 

[YukonXL04]

Looks like the screws for the outside flare aren't really grabbing any wood. You might put some adhesive under the outer lip

 

[Wiz Khalifla_85]

Looks like the screws for the outside flare aren't really grabbing any wood. You might put some adhesive under the outer lip

I had one mounting hole way too close to the edge. That's the one in the pic. All others are solid. Here's the port spun around.

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

I would say leave it as it, mount the woofer, see how it sounds and if you dont like it, remove the brace and spin the port more then add 2 braces on either side of the port or just skip the bracing in that area. You're only running 400w, the box should be strong enough as is. If it was 1000w or more then I'd say to use the bracing for sure but it should be fine on the power level you're using.

 

[Wiz Khalifla_85]

Well, threw the enclosure in the trunk and tuned to a clean 50hz tone. Played a bunch of tracks (XCLSV & DJ Russticals)..

Conclusion: sounds terrible. All I hear is exaggerated boomy bass. 30,31,32,33,34,35 etc etc all sounds alike..

 

[shredder2]

You're trying to play rebassed with a 50hz tune?

Maybe I'm misunderstanding

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

You're trying to play rebassed with a 50hz tune?

Maybe I'm misunderstanding

That port opening is also rather crowded into the wall.   That port will not perform properly