Bypassing factory sub with aftermarket sub

droopdog7

CarAudio.com Newbie
I have a Hyundai Kona with a factory sub in the trunk area. It’s okay, but I want to install my Audison Prima APBX 10 AS2. It’s a powered sub that I was using on my last car. I had an aftermarket HU with rca outs and no factory sub, so connecting was easy.

Now I have a factory head unit with a factory sub, so I’m wondering if I can redirect the wires to the sub to mine? Perhaps with an LOC? I can knock out two birds with one stone as I wouldn’t want to run both subs anyway.

Will it work? I assume the crossovers are built into the system somehow? If that’s the case, will they still work with my aftermarket? I guess they might sound bad even if they do work?

Is there a better way and how much harder would it be? I don’t want to remove the head unit and I don’t have access to hpf.

Thanks.
 
I have a Hyundai Kona with a factory sub in the trunk area. It’s okay, but I want to install my Audison Prima APBX 10 AS2. It’s a powered sub that I was using on my last car. I had an aftermarket HU with rca outs and no factory sub, so connecting was easy.

Now I have a factory head unit with a factory sub, so I’m wondering if I can redirect the wires to the sub to mine? Perhaps with an LOC? I can knock out two birds with one stone as I wouldn’t want to run both subs anyway.

Will it work? I assume the crossovers are built into the system somehow? If that’s the case, will they still work with my aftermarket? I guess they might sound bad even if they do work?

Is there a better way and how much harder would it be? I don’t want to remove the head unit and I don’t have access to hpf.

Thanks.
You should be able to tap off the sub wires. However, some systems require seeing a specific ohm load or it will not send sound to that speaker. I doubt the Hyundai will have that, but it is a possibility. If the sub output does not work, you can tap off the rear speakers. Hopefully, the amp doesn't have a low-pass filter on the rear speakers.
 
You should be able to tap off the sub wires. However, some systems require seeing a specific ohm load or it will not send sound to that speaker. I doubt the Hyundai will have that, but it is a possibility. If the sub output does not work, you can tap off the rear speakers. Hopefully, the amp doesn't have a low-pass filter on the rear speakers.
Thanks. My sub has a high level inputs, so I believe I should be able to connect the wires directly. Does this make the most sense or would an loc be better? Would low signals be passed to the aftermarket sub either way?
 
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Thanks. My sub has a high level inputs, so I believe I should be able to connect the wires directly. Does this make the most sense or would an loc be better? Would low signals be passed to the aftermarket sub either way?
If you were tagging wires behind the deck, I would recommend an LOC in case you ever upgrade your deck. But, if you're tagging off the factory sub, or rear speaker, using the high-level connection will be just fine. It will also help prevent noise in the line.
 
Tapping into the factory sub wires would work, though there's no way to know what kind of LPF is in effect. Tapping into the rear speakers works too, but you need to be ahead of the factory amp, not after it. There will no doubt be a HPF in the factory amp to protect the midrange speakers.
 
Might have to join a Kona forum or group to see what others have done. My Civic has the Bose system and I just disconnected the factory subwoofer and hooked the wiring to an LC2i pro. Rear speakers wouldn't have worked for me as they have a pretty high HPF. Using the factory subwoofer wiring I am able to play mid 20hz decently.

Some vehicles (my focus ST) you have to add diodes to the factory amp so it sees a load and doesn't self destruct. I ended up just unplugging the factory amp and going with a DSR1 DSP and all new speakers, amps, and subwoofer.
 
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droopdog7

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