Building NEW ported box for my OLD Alpine gear

I liked my type R better than the W6. It seemed a lot warmer or something. Answer me this, why do people double baffle the box, but then only install the sub on one layer of the double baffle. It makes zero sense to me. I would install it on top of the double baffle for more support.
I think your taste is more for output than SQ. The W6 sounded much better to me than the R but the R had that extra output. Both are great subs with the R being much more affordable.
 
I've already stated the specifics of why it's a non issue. Do you understand what it means when two objects couple together? What exactly is your premise, that the stress does not transfer to the second baffle board? You do realize that MDF itself is actually a bunch of little separate particles that have been coupled together, right?

technically will never be as strong

This is you backpedaling. Nobody said it was as strong, I said it was such a minute difference that you will never be able to realistically tell the difference.

You mentioned a code/housing inspector, because you are attempting to fit this into terms you understand, simple weight transfer (such as a header beam). We aren't building a house.


Everybody's an engineer these days.

I have a degree and was a mechanical engineer specifically for about 10 years before moving on. How about you?
 
I've already stated the specifics of why it's a non issue. Do you understand what it means when two objects couple together? What exactly is your premise, that the stress does not transfer to the second baffle board? You do realize that MDF itself is actually a bunch of little separate particles that have been coupled together, right?



This is you backpedaling. Nobody said it was as strong, I said it was such a minute difference that you will never be able to realistically tell the difference.

You mentioned a code/housing inspector, because you are attempting to fit this into terms you understand, simple weight transfer (such as a header beam). We aren't building a house.




I have a degree and was a mechanical engineer specifically for about 10 years before moving on. How about you?
I simply stated that a sub sitting on ¾" of MDF will never be supported as much as it would be if it were installed on both layers of the ¾". And, with subs weighing as much as 80 plus pounds, I don't understand why people don't install on top of the double ¾". I'm a field guy, not a pencil pusher in an office type. I'm the one who the engineer would ask, "well, what do you think will work?" That's why the blueprints would usually say, "engineer not responsible for drawings", "not for construction purposes", and "field verify all dimensions." Engineers wouldn't even take responsibility for their own drawings. So, being an engineer doesn't mean jack to me. I build the shiit, and, I know what works and why it works. Because, I've built it, repeatedly. I don't scribble on vellum in an office and call myself an engineer. Most engineers can't even hang a picture.
 
I simply stated that a sub sitting on ¾" of MDF will never be supported as much as it would be if it were installed on both layers of the ¾". And, with subs weighing as much as 80 plus pounds, I don't understand why people don't install on top of the double ¾". I'm a field guy, not a pencil pusher in an office type. I'm the one who the engineer would ask, "well, what do you think will work?" That's why the blueprints would usually say, "engineer not responsible for drawings", "not for construction purposes", and "field verify all dimensions." Engineers wouldn't even take responsibility for their own drawings. So, being an engineer doesn't mean jack to me. I build the shiit, and, I know what works and why it works. Because, I've built it, repeatedly. I don't scribble on vellum in an office and call myself an engineer. Most engineers can't even hang a picture.
Im not sure how this thread became about your personal narcissism, but your question of curiosity was asked and answered. Have a great evening.
 
If the sub is heavy enough I would want more than 3/4" of MDF to screw into. I would say anything over 750 rms do a double mounting baffle and then a third flush layer if you wanted.
 
Let's summarize. First you attempted to dismiss my points by accusing me of pretending to be an engineer. Then, when you realized you were the only one here who isn't an engineer, you shifted to suggesting you know more than engineers. Finally you attempt to save face by taking issue with my wording, as if I dont know what the F stands for in mdf. And you end it by whining about me responding to the question you posed on a public forum. This is the thanks I get for trying to explain the answer to your question.

I'm the one who the engineer would ask, "well, what do you think will work?"

You sound more like the guy that the boss keeps having to send out maintenance calls on due to you altering the design "in the field" because you think you know better than the guy who designed the system.

By your logic, none of us can really say we're actually getting the full 3/4" of mdf out of our panels, since we are countersinking the screw heads.
 
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Welcome to the Shitshow....

Mdf may have fibers or particles, depending on the quality IME.

It CAN be HDF... who cares?

A single baffled 20lb sub or even heavier on a single baffle.. countersunk or not as long as its braced and not noodly... will work.

Jmo

(ya... noodly... its a word... 🤣)
 
Let's summarize. First you attempted to dismiss my points by accusing me of pretending to be an engineer. Then, when you realized you were the only one here who isn't an engineer, you shifted to suggesting you know more than engineers. Finally you attempt to save face by taking issue with my wording, as if I dont know what the F stands for in mdf. And you end it by whining about me responding to the question you posed on a public forum. This is the thanks I get for trying to explain the answer to your question.



You sound more like the guy that the boss keeps having to send out maintenance calls on due to you altering the design "in the field" because you think you know better than the guy who designed the system.

By your logic, none of us can really say we're actually getting the full 3/4" of mdf out of our panels, since we are countersinking the screw heads.
I'm the guy catching all the engineer's mistakes. Because, engineers won't take responsibility for their drawings and never draw **** up to code. It's the framers job to build up to code regardless of the garbage that engineers scribble on vellum. They honestly won't take responsibility for anything they draw. Blueprints always say, "engineer not responsible for drawings", "not for construction purposes", and "field verify all dimensions." So, I have to fix your **** and build it up to code
Because, you pencil pushers are lazy office fuckks! Popcorn time!
 
Has anyone ever told you that you don't take criticism well? lol
I don't take peoples ******** well. Especially, from a guy who says he's an engineer and says that MDF is made up of particles. That's particle board Mr. engineer. Engineers like to baffle people with ******** and pretty pictures. "Engineer not responsible for drawings!" Wtf is that? Then, who is? Engineers are worthless, except to get permits.
 
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