Build Log 01 taurus Fi Rockford

[tez4life Premium Member]

I think you will be fine with that fuse, I had a 200amp on my setup (Orion 1200d) and it worked fine.

 

[emd2260 10+ year member]

finished the box today.. came out pretty good for my first one //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

now i just have to wait for my T1000 and it'll be in

any suggestions what i should do about my fuses?

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/yumyum.gif.0556df42231b304b9c995aefd13928a8.gif

the port pieces werent exactly "touching" so i threw some BEATnails on it...

 

[basshedz06 10+ year member]

looks awesome man u did a good job on it love the baffle touch my next box will have this same touch too it i like the flush mounted look

 

[rollerdj 10+ year member]

not to bad for your first box.

 

[Colt9699 10+ year member]

Good luck replacing the strock hu in the car........

I ahve an 2001 Taurus and I was going to replace the stocker with something nicer for my wife till I saw how much the **** dash kit costs. stupid intergrated heating controls.

 

[luvinthebass 5,000+ posts]

Good luck replacing the strock hu in the car........
I ahve an 2001 Taurus and I was going to replace the stocker with something nicer for my wife till I saw how much the **** dash kit costs. stupid intergrated heating controls.

So do i! the stock speakers **** man. the dash kit cost me $90, took forever to get the heating and all the climate control wires hooked up again. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/furious.gif.fc81ca146dbff91fede3ed290dbc4f4c.gif

 

[emd2260 10+ year member]

thanks for the comments guys! and yeah..the stock head unit was a pain in my a$$, took a good 2 hours to just get it out and switched with the new one...not to mention the driver side bracet on it was broken, so every now and then i hit a hard bump it comes poppin out on that side...but everything stayed in luckily... and i dont plan on changing the stock speakers, im going to be getting rid of it in a few months so i said fock it and just wait until i get a new car...did you guys stay with the stock alts in your taurus?

 

[luvinthebass 5,000+ posts]

thanks for the comments guys! and yeah..the stock head unit was a pain in my a$$, took a good 2 hours to just get it out and switched with the new one...not to mention the driver side bracet on it was broken, so every now and then i hit a hard bump it comes poppin out on that side...but everything stayed in luckily... and i dont plan on changing the stock speakers, im going to be getting rid of it in a few months so i said fock it and just wait until i get a new car...did you guys stay with the stock alts in your taurus?

yeah mines 135 amp one.

 

[emd2260 10+ year member]

so some guys on smd.com realized that i screwed up...RF says that the terminals are 2 or 1/0 awg wire, and i have 4, so really i got too small of an amp kit and too big of a fuse huh?

should i just return this wiring kit and get (2 - amp and big 3) 1/0 kits from knukonceptz?....or will i still be good with this?

 

[emd2260 10+ year member]

anyone have any suggestions please?? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 

[tRidiot 10+ year member]

It's always better to be bigger when it comes to wire, but 4g should only carry about 100A according to this page:

https://weldingsupply.securesites.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?Next::1:UNDEF:OR:terms:A

Not sure how much current that RF amp will draw, but remember, the fuse is in the wire to protect the WIRE... the amp should always be fused separately. Not sure if those RF T-series amps are fused or if you're supposed to do it externally.

To calculate more things about your amp, wire gauge, speaker wire size, etc., go here:

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/wire_calculator.asp

I just used that, and it's a pretty nifty little tool they've got.

When I checked your amp's output power and efficiency on that RF page, I saw that it will draw about 130+ amps, I think... so you'll need a bigger wire, I'm guessing.

BTW, those battery terminals you got at Autozone... do they accept 1/0? Or are those two larger openings for 4g? How much was the pair? I might consider some of those. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[emd2260 10+ year member]

thanks for the help tRdoc, finally haha..i know they accept 4 awg, and possibly 2, i cant really remember, and it was like 24.99 for a pack with + and -...hell, considering i need to probably sell those, ill sell em to ya if you want them, because that wire is basically no good to me now //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 

[tRidiot 10+ year member]

Sorry, I need dual 1/0 with 1-2 other spots as well. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif Sorry. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 

[emd2260 10+ year member]

aah its cool man, im sure i can still use them somehow haha...so do you think i should just maybe try to get my money back for this 4awg kit..bought it from a local shop...and get 1/0? maybe get 2 kits for knukonceptz...cuz i need one for doing the big 3 as well..

 

[tRidiot 10+ year member]

I don't see why you need a whole other 1/0 kit for the Big Three unless you just really want to. It will have alotta stuff in it that you won't need.

Maybe just buy some extra 1/0 and ring terminals from weldingsupply.com ?