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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Okay. So. I think I talked him into powering the rear speakers off factory power... or MS8 power if I can do that.
With the rear speakers being powered off factory/ms8 power, how should I wire up the 4 channel? 2 Channels on the doors? and the other 2 on the Tweeter?

I'm unable to convince him in not upgrading the rear door. Gotta have the matching speakers, I can relate tho. So should I just have him buy 4 - 6.5" woofers and a pair of tweeters?

Also, There will be 2 - 4" dash spots that will be unused at this point with us moving the tweeters to the A-pillars. Would there be any benefit adding 4" mid bass woofers in these spots? There is also a Center speaker spot for a 4" speaker as well. There will be some 5.1 surround sound movie use, but not a primary use. Says the 5.1 would be nice to have tho. With this, how should I cross them over? If its possible, could I use MS8 power to power them and use the MS8 to tune them as well.

So his head unit rear speaker outputs will power the rear speakers, Dont waste any precious processing or amplifier power for this.

you will get a 3 way active front. AKA a pre built 3 way component set or piece together a 6.5 midbass, 4 inch mid and tweeter. You will get a 6 channel amp tweets get their own channel, 4 inch mids get their own channel, midbass get their own channel. You can also do a large 2 channel and a decent 4 channel, large 2 channel will be for midbass for this setup.

I'd recommend scanspeak if you want to piece together stuff.

On the ms-8

channel 1-2 will be for tweets, 2-3 will be for mids, 5-6 for midbass. channel 7 for the center (will power the 4" center as well) channel 8 for the subwoofer. Fully active crossovers

This should give you a magnificent front stage to the point where he will say... "why the fk did i even think i need rear speakers...." as he continually jizz his pants.

A lot of people are against 5.1 sound but If the audio processor can actually reprocess it properly, it'll sound amazing. The MS-8 is one of the very few that can actually do 5.1(or 3.1) out of a 2.1 recording and do it right.

 

[tommymilan311]

So his head unit rear speaker outputs will power the rear speakers, Dont waste any precious processing or amplifier power for this.
you will get a 3 way active front. AKA a pre built 3 way component set or piece together a 6.5 midbass, 4 inch mid and tweeter. You will get a 6 channel amp tweets get their own channel, 4 inch mids get their own channel, midbass get their own channel. You can also do a large 2 channel and a decent 4 channel, large 2 channel will be for midbass for this setup.

I'd recommend scanspeak if you want to piece together stuff.

On the ms-8

channel 1-2 will be for tweets, 2-3 will be for mids, 5-6 for midbass. channel 7 for the center (will power the 4" center as well) channel 8 for the subwoofer. Fully active crossovers

This should give you a magnificent front stage to the point where he will say... "why the fk did i even think i need rear speakers...." as he continually jizz his pants.

A lot of people are against 5.1 sound but If the audio processor can actually reprocess it properly, it'll sound amazing. The MS-8 is one of the very few that can actually do 5.1(or 3.1) out of a 2.1 recording and do it right.

Okay. The only reason I ask if I can/should run it through the processor is for the 5.1 and I won't be utilizing the internal amp of the MS8. So my logic was if it was ran of the HU wouldn't it mess with timing?

And it is best to just run each style of speaker (Full - 6.5, mid - 4.0, tweeter) on their own channel. I know it sounds like a stupid question, but I wouldn't be able to run, say the tweeters, with the MS8? Just wondering because this is another piece of equipment. Prices isn't as much of the issue as space in this aspect.

I also noticed you mention is channel 7 for center. Should I add the Center speaker? and if so what frequencies? I know reading before I was told this is only beneficial for surround sound.

Edit:

Scan-speak seems like a Euro company as all their measurements are in metric.. as an Engineer... I hate the English measuring system. This pleases me.

 

[tommymilan311]

@Jeffdachef
Researching a bit into Scan-Speak it looks like they go everything I need to fit things perfectly. It also seems as tho I'll be able to talk them down to 1 sub. Should I look into Scan-Speak there as well? Or the traditional DD, Sundown, type of woofers?
I'm looking at the Scan-Speak Silver Series speakers:
2 - Dome Tweeter - 153.99
2 - Midrange Speaker - 130.10
4 - Midwoofer Speaker - 327.60

I'm not sure if the designation of "each" is per pair or per speaker. So I'll ave to call to find this out. The good news is that these are in Middletown Wisconson, just outside of Madison. I'm in the Rockford IL, and Milwaukee WI area quite often so getting a demo shouldn't be a huge issue.

What is a good 6 channel to look into? And what would be a good 4 and 2 channel amp combo? I've been told to steer clear of Korean built full range/highs amps, but they are okay for subs. Why is this?

EDIT:
Looking back I noticed you mention the the Arc Audio XDo 1200.6. This is probably the right amp, even though the 150W RMS/Channel is a bit over kill. The Speakers are looking for 70W (6.5"), 40W (Tweet), and 15W (Mid).

Beyond that, I'm thinking the FSD-1200.1 Should cover anything I do for the Subs.. Maybe the FSD 1600.1 as it has a 950W 2 Ohm rating and a 550W 4 ohm rating.

Which brings me to another question. Is there going to be a big difference from running the subs 1 Ohm, 2 Ohm, or 4 Ohm. I know their will be when it comes to power handling, but what about Audio? Is 4 Ohm audio going to sound better than 2 Ohm or 1 Ohm? I've always heard that 1 Ohm plays deeper than 4 Ohm, but I haven't been able to tell myself.

 

[tommymilan311]

Another Question, Kinda moving onto the whole treating thing.

So, I went with Stinger Deadener, and I'll steer him that way. But Via his own research he is thinking going with RAAMmat BXT II. He's wanting complete cover, Floor, Headliner, Doors, Trunk. The web page had a "recommended" amount based on vehicle. So, when doing this it recommends About 81 sqft of Deadener, and 153 sqft of Ensolite. That'd be and order of Package #1 , Package #2 , and 4 additional yards of Ensolite. Thats roughly 93.75 sqft of Deadener, and 159 sqft of Ensolite, totaling about $480.

But in addition to this, shouldn't you have some sort of sound insulation in the doors?

Using KHA's Accord build as a guide, I used fiberglass ceiling tile wrapped in thin painter drop sheets for sound insulation. This isn't going to cut it for my buddy. It isn't "clean" or "professional" enough for him. What is a good product that is used for this type of application? I think he'll still be okay with Denim insulation as a filler for the trunk and certain parts of the interior.
@keep_hope_alive maybe you can give me an answer on an alternate solution here, more "professional" solution to tickle my buddies fancy.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

[quote name='tommymilan311']Another Question, Kinda moving onto the whole treating thing.

So, I went with Stinger Deadener, and I'll steer him that way. But Via his own research he is thinking going with RAAMmat BXT II. He's wanting complete cover, Floor, Headliner, Doors, Trunk. The web page had a "recommended" amount based on vehicle. So, when doing this it recommends About 81 sqft of Deadener, and 153 sqft of Ensolite. That'd be and order of Package #1 , Package #2 , and 4 additional yards of Ensolite. Thats roughly 93.75 sqft of Deadener, and 159 sqft of Ensolite, totaling about $480.

But in addition to this, shouldn't you have some sort of sound insulation in the doors?

Using KHA's Accord build as a guide, I used fiberglass ceiling tile wrapped in thin painter drop sheets for sound insulation. This isn't going to cut it for my buddy. It isn't "clean" or "professional" enough for him. What is a good product that is used for this type of application? I think he'll still be okay with Denim insulation as a filler for the trunk and certain parts of the interior.
@keep_hope_alive maybe you can give me an answer on an alternate solution here, more "professional" solution to tickle my buddies fancy.[/QUOTE]


No viable alternative exists. I'm the only one to develop a functional sound absorption solution. Nothing else on the market performs (despite vague website claims that lack data). All other DIY solutions used closed cell foam which is nearly useless for sound absorption.

Rich V.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

You can tell him the professional solution is one recommended by a licensed professional engineer who works in the field of acoustics. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

http://www.csemag.com/events-and-awards/40-under-40/2015-40-under-40-winners/single-profile/2015-40-under-40-richard-vedvik-pe-36/a7edb7aacd7cc4b766a8c06ce5ac1e1a.html

my solution mimics what companies use in areas subject to moisture - but the solutions are designed for large rooms, not small doors. there aren't commercial acoustics products made small enough to fit inside a door. If you want a more professional look, wrap the PVC encased fiberglass panel in a more aesthetic fabric - like nylon sailcloth.

Rich V.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

[quote name='tommymilan311']@Jeffdachef
Researching a bit into Scan-Speak it looks like they go everything I need to fit things perfectly. It also seems as tho I'll be able to talk them down to 1 sub. Should I look into Scan-Speak there as well? Or the traditional DD, Sundown, type of woofers?
I'm looking at the Scan-Speak Silver Series speakers:
2 - Dome Tweeter - 153.99
2 - Midrange Speaker - 130.10
4 - Midwoofer Speaker - 327.60

I'm not sure if the designation of "each" is per pair or per speaker. So I'll ave to call to find this out. The good news is that these are in Middletown Wisconson, just outside of Madison. I'm in the Rockford IL, and Milwaukee WI area quite often so getting a demo shouldn't be a huge issue.

What is a good 6 channel to look into? And what would be a good 4 and 2 channel amp combo? I've been told to steer clear of Korean built full range/highs amps, but they are okay for subs. Why is this?

EDIT:
Looking back I noticed you mention the the Arc Audio XDo 1200.6. This is probably the right amp, even though the 150W RMS/Channel is a bit over kill. The Speakers are looking for 70W (6.5"), 40W (Tweet), and 15W (Mid).

Beyond that, I'm thinking the FSD-1200.1 Should cover anything I do for the Subs.. Maybe the FSD 1600.1 as it has a 950W 2 Ohm rating and a 550W 4 ohm rating.

Which brings me to another question. Is there going to be a big difference from running the subs 1 Ohm, 2 Ohm, or 4 Ohm. I know their will be when it comes to power handling, but what about Audio? Is 4 Ohm audio going to sound better than 2 Ohm or 1 Ohm? I've always heard that 1 Ohm plays deeper than 4 Ohm, but I haven't been able to tell myself.[/QUOTE]

To be honest the goal here is to do the front stage so well that he wont hear the rears at all so it wont affect anything. OR have the rears sound bad enough that he says fk it, take em out. OR just fade to the front. All rears do is hurt the sound stage anyways so there should be ZERO focus on the rears processing and power wise at all ABSOLUTELY ZERO. It'll take your amazing sounding system and make it sound mediocre. You do not waste precious output channels on rears.

For scanspeak, i only had amazing experiences (demos) with the relevator series, many MECA national finalist cars used the scanspeak relevators. I cant say for the rest of the lines but they are known to be pretty solid all around even down to their discovery lines per recommendations on DIYMA forums.
Its just power with the amp. Run at 1 ohm. For subs, if he likes it loud and sounding relatively decent then keep with normal competition brands. If he wants a more elegant sound then go with whatever SQ brand. Not really sure how scanspeak subs sound, never got any recommendations on them at all. There's incriminator flatlyne and SSA Xcons if he wants both SQ and loud.

thats the arc audio amp. You can actually go with full arc audio if he wants it all matching. Arc audio black series 3 way comps are pretty bad@ss as well. You'll be ditching the crossover tho. Arc audio subs are decent as well but kinda weak in power handling. So if you want you can just do a different sub setup.

 

[tommymilan311]

You can tell him the professional solution is one recommended by a licensed professional engineer who works in the field of acoustics. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Consulting-Specifying Engineer*|*single profile

my solution mimics what companies use in areas subject to moisture - but the solutions are designed for large rooms, not small doors. there aren't commercial acoustics products made small enough to fit inside a door. If you want a more professional look, wrap the PVC encased fiberglass panel in a more aesthetic fabric - like nylon sailcloth.

Rich V.

Holy cow!! Congrats on the success and you are the real deal! I think he'll take it to heart showing him where the info is coming from.

To be honest the goal here is to do the front stage so well that he wont hear the rears at all so it wont affect anything. OR have the rears sound bad enough that he says fk it, take em out. OR just fade to the front. All rears do is hurt the sound stage anyways so there should be ZERO focus on the rears processing and power wise at all ABSOLUTELY ZERO. It'll take your amazing sounding system and make it sound mediocre. You do not waste precious output channels on rears.
For scanspeak, i only had amazing experiences (demos) with the relevator series, many MECA national finalist cars used the scanspeak relevators. I cant say for the rest of the lines but they are known to be pretty solid all around even down to their discovery lines per recommendations on DIYMA forums.

Its just power with the amp. Run at 1 ohm. For subs, if he likes it loud and sounding relatively decent then keep with normal competition brands. If he wants a more elegant sound then go with whatever SQ brand. Not really sure how scanspeak subs sound, never got any recommendations on them at all. There's incriminator flatlyne and SSA Xcons if he wants both SQ and loud.

thats the arc audio amp. You can actually go with full arc audio if he wants it all matching. Arc audio black series 3 way comps are pretty bad@ss as well. You'll be ditching the crossover tho. Arc audio subs are decent as well but kinda weak in power handling. So if you want you can just do a different sub setup.

We'll be looking into a plethora of decently available products that we can demo. Scanspeak is one of them because we are up in that area often. The goal is to check out a car audio show in Chicago too. I'll look into where we can get our hands on some physical arc audio equipment for a demo, or hopefully find someone that will be demoing their arc audio system in the spring.