Box rise

Not only that but your head unit is putting out a certain voltage, and setting your gain is matching that voltage. So depending on the voltage your head unit is producing, 1/4 gain might be full power, or full gain.
Now as for fitting two 12's in a trunk Ported, you aren't going to do it without it taking up most of your trunk. You need a certain amount of Port area or you risk annoying port noise and compression issues. So just doing a small port isn't really an option unless you go with a bigger box. Small port and small box don't really go together, which is why designing a good box is often challenging when limited in space.

Most 12's Ported need about 4 cubes. And judging by the size of the 4ft box in my truck, good luck lol. Go check out the box I posted in the build log section for two tens in my brothers focus, that's only 2 cubes. Two tens are very practical for people worried about getting to their spares while still having a Ported box that bangs.
i might be better off just going full trunk as the trunk is basically useless as it sits now anyways and i never use the car for long trips because of the lack of space as it currently is and just forgo the spare. Leave it at home and make sure i have someone to call if the need arises. Im not sure how much of a pita it would be to get at the spare right now anyways

i did rather like it as it was before my slew of amp problems. ill probably just focus on the charging system for now and go from there

The 1/3 gain wasn't just some arbitrary level I set it Ro btw, I went to an empty parking lot, turned the deck up to the max I'd ever have it at and turned the gain up until the just a bit before the clipping light would flash on the heaviest tones. It has a bass knob with a clipping light too and it rarely, and I mean rarely even barely flickered

 
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i might be better off just going full trunk as the trunk is basically useless as it sits now anyways and i never use the car for long trips because of the lack of space as it currently is and just forgo the spare. Leave it at home and make sure i have someone to call if the need arises. Im not sure how much of a pita it would be to get at the spare right now anyways
i did rather like it as it was before my slew of amp problems. ill probably just focus on the charging system for now and go from there

The 1/3 gain wasn't just some arbitrary level I set it Ro btw, I went to an empty parking lot, turned the deck up to the max I'd ever have it at and turned the gain up until the just a bit before the clipping light would flash on the heaviest tones. It has a bass knob with a clipping light too and it rarely, and I mean rarely even barely flickered
That's better than nothing but those lights are not known for their accuracy. You were probably fine on the clipping, but yeah not on the 4g. Thats crazzzzyy lol

Did your cables melt aor anything? or did you just fry your poor amp?

 
That's better than nothing but those lights are not known for their accuracy. You were probably fine on the clipping, but yeah not on the 4g. Thats crazzzzyy lol
Did your cables melt aor anything? or did you just fry your poor amp?
dang! youre good!! there is a section under the hood closest to the fuse holder that has signs of melting, and of course i didnt notice it until after i had my first amp issue

 
Unfortunately I know from experience from when I was about 14 lol
yeah, when i got into car audio at around the same age, it was 26 years back. 2K watts was Gary Biggs and Robert Rice territory back then. We used to get away with a couple hundred watts and one 20 amp fuse LoL i recall the pro 601+ category in IASCA being the golden chalice for people to aspire to, but im approaching 41 years old, so yeah Even when i sold 12v electronics at ultimate electronics, the bd1000 was a big deal and class d was very new. Sure the old monster mosfet amps were capable of over a thousand watts, but those were rarely found outside of cars that were in the db drag lanes

 
ok, wasnt sure about that on the box rise topic. What about prolonged bass notes like what is found in many edm tracks? Thanks for your input, its always appreciated //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif i like the idea of a sealed box for a better overall response, but am thinking of going ported with a mild port for the sake of efficiency, and i guess i dont know what you mean about cutting efficiency for the sake of "getting more power from my amp"
Free air or sealed the speaker shows it's highest impedance where it resonates (is most efficient). A fair bit of the impedance you'll see is due to how efficiently the system is operating, there may be some happy medium when chasing numbers of dropping the impedance allowing the amp to make more power overcomes the loss in efficiency (making the box smaller) but personally I'd rather just use a lower impedance coil to get more power out of the amp.

http://audiojudgement.com/speaker-impedance-curve-explained/

Also this:

mh-audio.nl

What kind of music you play is not important. Ported box, assuming you get a decent design, your fundamentals are sound, and the woofer is designed to function in it will always gain you "free" output over sealed.

 
Rise isn't something to worry about unless you are chasing tenths in SPL enclosures. Even then, it is still not always the most important factor.

Now different in rise across your playable frequency band at full power can be an issue. Unloading below port tuning can absolutely zap your voltage, same with too high above tuning. Rise or lack of can cause crazy voltage dips depending on the enclosure, usually a ported issue more.

 
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