box build help

tylork92
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Veteran
yes i used the search function and cant find wat i need. Well i just finished cutting all my pieces. and went to go get my screws to find i dont have any more and really dont want to go all the way to town to get them but i have my liquid nails Wood and can get clamps REALLY close to home from a friend...will clamps be ok with liquid nails and clamps or do i need screws too..guess i could get screw in the morning.

 
Wood Glue is what nearly all "quality" box builders use.

For the most part, we only use screws so they act as clamps, so we can continue with the rest of the box with out stopping and waiting for that part to dry so we can use those clamps.

I haven't personally used liquid nails... but I hear it's bad quality. I think your best bet is to go into town and get Wood Glue and screws.

 
Wood Glue is what nearly all "quality" box builders use.For the most part, we only use screws so they act as clamps, so we can continue with the rest of the box with out stopping and waiting for that part to dry so we can use those clamps.

I haven't personally used liquid nails... but I hear it's bad quality. I think your best bet is to go into town and get Wood Glue and screws.
would the Wood kind not be the same as wood glue?

 
WHAT !!!! Of the hundreds of boxes I've built, the only time I use screws is to hold an access panel OR if its a REALLY BIG box with multiple drivers. Of all the boxes I've built I have never had one blow apart at the seams - period ! I use generic Elmers on the seams, then follow up with a good QUALITY silicone caulk. All joints are air nailed with 2" nails every 3-4 ". The enclosure I have in my theatre housing an 18" is powered by a Peavey PV 1.3K (1300 REAL watts !! - Not the over rated power of todays car-fi amps) my Peavey blows 20 amp breakers just powering on !

IF you insist on using screws (IE: like to split every hole) AT least pre-drill and counter sink the screws with the proper bit ! The length of screw will be determined by the thickness you are screwing through and the type of material you use. For MDF, plywood and particle board use coarse thread. rule of thumb is softwoods use coarse, hardwoods use fine. ALLWAYS pre-drill !!

do it once and do it right.

 
WHAT !!!! Of the hundreds of boxes I've built, the only time I use screws is to hold an access panel OR if its a REALLY BIG box with multiple drivers. Of all the boxes I've built I have never had one blow apart at the seams - period ! I use generic Elmers on the seams, then follow up with a good QUALITY silicone caulk. All joints are air nailed with 2" nails every 3-4 ". The enclosure I have in my theatre housing an 18" is powered by a Peavey PV 1.3K (1300 REAL watts !! - Not the over rated power of todays car-fi amps) my Peavey blows 20 amp breakers just powering on !
IF you insist on using screws (IE: like to split every hole) AT least pre-drill and counter sink the screws with the proper bit ! The length of screw will be determined by the thickness you are screwing through and the type of material you use. For MDF, plywood and particle board use coarse thread. rule of thumb is softwoods use coarse, hardwoods use fine. ALLWAYS pre-drill !!

do it once and do it right.
actually the proper way to do it without using screws would be to lay a bead of glue down and then clamp ur piece and let dry then remove clamps.. screws are only there to hold the wood tight tell the glue drys not for structrural support

 
actually the proper way to do it without using screws would be to lay a bead of glue down and then clamp ur piece and let dry then remove clamps.. screws are only there to hold the wood tight tell the glue drys not for structrural support
so just using some bar clamps would be until glue is dry...ill go get Titebond tomorrow.

another question the countersink bit i have has a pilot bit on it as well but its not very long...maybe like an inch long before the actual countersink. would i need to get a regular drill bit and drill further or wat? if someone could hit me up on AIM that knows there shit plese do so........ chiodosbpb

 
WHAT !!!! Of the hundreds of boxes I've built, the only time I use screws is to hold an access panel OR if its a REALLY BIG box with multiple drivers. Of all the boxes I've built I have never had one blow apart at the seams - period ! I use generic Elmers on the seams, then follow up with a good QUALITY silicone caulk. All joints are air nailed with 2" nails every 3-4 ". The enclosure I have in my theatre housing an 18" is powered by a Peavey PV 1.3K (1300 REAL watts !! - Not the over rated power of todays car-fi amps) my Peavey blows 20 amp breakers just powering on !
IF you insist on using screws (IE: like to split every hole) AT least pre-drill and counter sink the screws with the proper bit ! The length of screw will be determined by the thickness you are screwing through and the type of material you use. For MDF, plywood and particle board use coarse thread. rule of thumb is softwoods use coarse, hardwoods use fine. ALLWAYS pre-drill !!

do it once and do it right.
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif maybe if you buy boss audio or some shit

 
i use clamps for the most part and screws. the glue is the main bonding agent here. a good wood glue like titebond II or III will work fine bro. if you can only use clamps i suggest that you use alot of them as well as 90degree corner clamps. do not i repeat do not remove the corner clamps untill the bar clamps have been removed. and make sure you let the glue FULLY dry. i dont advise not using screws but you can do it

 
i use clamps for the most part and screws. the glue is the main bonding agent here. a good wood glue like titebond II or III will work fine bro. if you can only use clamps i suggest that you use alot of them as well as 90degree corner clamps. do not i repeat do not remove the corner clamps untill the bar clamps have been removed. and make sure you let the glue FULLY dry. i dont advise not using screws but you can do it
y would u not advise using screws?

 
Liquid Nails Wood isn't the same as Wood Glue. LNW is probably something that is more porous that will get into the fibers of wood better. However, Wood Glue actually melds the fibers of the wood together to create a strong piece. In fact, most pieces glued with wood glue, the actual wood breaks before the glue seam does. (That is when sheared, not when linear downward force is exerted.)

tightbond 2 and 1 5/8 coarse thread drywall screws
This

y would u not advise using screws?
x2.

The only reason why not to is the likeliness that the wood might splint... but even then, a proper pre-drilled hole would work fine. Not to mention you can save quite a bit by using screws vs buying a lot of clamps, seeing how you can go a lot faster when building a box.

But if you plan on building a lot, lots of clamps is the way to go.

 
i use clamps for the most part and screws. the glue is the main bonding agent here. a good wood glue like titebond II or III will work fine bro. if you can only use clamps i suggest that you use alot of them as well as 90degree corner clamps. do not i repeat do not remove the corner clamps untill the bar clamps have been removed. and make sure you let the glue FULLY dry. i dont advise not using screws but you can do it
re read it

and just got back form Walmart with screws....box of 370 1 5/8 drywall. didnt have titebond tho...anybody kno of a place other than Lowes or Home Depot that sales Titebond.....perhaps Ace Hardware?

 
re read it
and just got back form Walmart with screws....box of 370 1 5/8 drywall. didnt have titebond tho...anybody kno of a place other than Lowes or Home Depot that sales Titebond.....perhaps Ace Hardware?
Oh, fail. HD and Lowes usually have it. Ace Hardware should, too.

 
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