Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Enclosure Design & Construction
box build help
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="stereo dave" data-source="post: 6515874" data-attributes="member: 615282"><p>WHAT !!!! Of the hundreds of boxes I've built, the only time I use screws is to hold an access panel OR if its a REALLY BIG box with multiple drivers. Of all the boxes I've built I have never had one blow apart at the seams - period ! I use generic Elmers on the seams, then follow up with a good QUALITY silicone caulk. All joints are air nailed with 2" nails every 3-4 ". The enclosure I have in my theatre housing an 18" is powered by a Peavey PV 1.3K (1300 REAL watts !! - Not the over rated power of todays car-fi amps) my Peavey blows 20 amp breakers just powering on !</p><p></p><p>IF you insist on using screws (IE: like to split every hole) AT least pre-drill and counter sink the screws with the proper bit ! The length of screw will be determined by the thickness you are screwing through and the type of material you use. For MDF, plywood and particle board use coarse thread. rule of thumb is softwoods use coarse, hardwoods use fine. ALLWAYS pre-drill !!</p><p></p><p>do it once and do it right.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="stereo dave, post: 6515874, member: 615282"] WHAT !!!! Of the hundreds of boxes I've built, the only time I use screws is to hold an access panel OR if its a REALLY BIG box with multiple drivers. Of all the boxes I've built I have never had one blow apart at the seams - period ! I use generic Elmers on the seams, then follow up with a good QUALITY silicone caulk. All joints are air nailed with 2" nails every 3-4 ". The enclosure I have in my theatre housing an 18" is powered by a Peavey PV 1.3K (1300 REAL watts !! - Not the over rated power of todays car-fi amps) my Peavey blows 20 amp breakers just powering on ! IF you insist on using screws (IE: like to split every hole) AT least pre-drill and counter sink the screws with the proper bit ! The length of screw will be determined by the thickness you are screwing through and the type of material you use. For MDF, plywood and particle board use coarse thread. rule of thumb is softwoods use coarse, hardwoods use fine. ALLWAYS pre-drill !! do it once and do it right. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Enclosure Design & Construction
box build help
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list