Bought 2 RE audio 18 SX's....... and....

[SPLaudio 5,000+ posts]

u had the ma audio XE's ,lol. no wonder they are rated for 550rms each. you can burp them 1200 each no probs. these were even the ol ones from 5yrs ago. the sx's are gonna be wayy louder...

 

[snoopdan 5,000+ posts]

I hate to break it to you but the RE XXX's arent SPL subs, and won't take that much power.

The SX's are allright subs. They get a bit stinky if you put more than 2k to em, but they're a good mid level sub tha'ts capable of doing good spl numbers on the meter but don't expect the world of them. I should know, I have some in my wall now.

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

u had the ma audio XE's ,lol. no wonder they are rated for 550rms each. you can burp them 1200 each no probs. these were even the ol ones from 5yrs ago. the sx's are gonna be wayy louder...

lol, they lasted for like 2-3 months like that ! was the amp wired at 1ohm can you guys tell from those videos ?

and also how is the fibre glass box ? i am a bit suspect of my installer still and need to get questions like this answered so i know if he knows what hes doing.

The big 0 gauge power cable came loose on my amp and my hole amp rack and the amp was cutting in and out i told him to check it and tighten it up and he completely ignored it.

So i have good reasons to be worried, dealing with a moderatly expensive system. Anyways, If you guys can tell me what you think of the box he did, aswell as whether or not those MA audio subwoofers where wired up at 1ohm would be great, oh and 1 last thing.

I have 2 kinetik batterys like you all saw in the videos, the 2nd one still is not installed i was waiting for my new subs, he said he wants to put a battery isolator inbetween them, so that the back one cant draw from the front, but can charge from it.

BUT in the kinetik owners manual it says that you should have = # of the battery model's to the RMS of your amp, so if you have a 2600rms amp, you should have 2 batterys that add up to 2600 in model #'s, i can pull the quote out of the manual if need be.

But this leads me to belive that the 2000 in the back on the isolator would not be the propper choice, and that he should wire it up so that it is directly connected to my other 1800 upfront so i have a total of 3800, Well over enough battery power for my amp and would probably be best for preformance correct ?

thanks guys !

P.S thats my GF chelsesa who lives with me she says hi //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Snow90 10+ year member]

nice fur jackets. lol.

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

nice fur jackets. lol.

furs nice, and i have epilepsy i shake in the cold quite easily, fur keeps me nice and warm //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif and my GF just likes it. Dont be dissing the fur

LOL i cant belive that actually came up in this post :S

anyways another question, is it normal to not be aloud to watch your installer work on your car ? because with thease woofers and the mistakes my installer has made in the past on this job, i want to be able to see what he is doing but he always says no for insurence purposes, should i call around and find someware that would let me watch the work be done on my car ? i feel i am privlaged to that since i am spending a bit of money on this system and i would like to make sure it gets done propperly.

 

[Snow90 10+ year member]

and i see in your video you keep asking if it wired to 1 ohm. You cant tell by looking at it, you need a DMM to test what your final load is.

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

lol, they lasted for like 2-3 months like that ! was the amp wired at 1ohm can you guys tell from those videos ?
and also how is the fibre glass box ? i am a bit suspect of my installer still and need to get questions like this answered so i know if he knows what hes doing.

The big 0 gauge power cable came loose on my amp and my hole amp rack and the amp was cutting in and out i told him to check it and tighten it up and he completely ignored it.

So i have good reasons to be worried, dealing with a moderatly expensive system. Anyways, If you guys can tell me what you think of the box he did, aswell as whether or not those MA audio subwoofers where wired up at 1ohm would be great, oh and 1 last thing.

I have 2 kinetik batterys like you all saw in the videos, the 2nd one still is not installed i was waiting for my new subs, he said he wants to put a battery isolator inbetween them, so that the back one cant draw from the front, but can charge from it.

BUT in the kinetik owners manual it says that you should have = # of the battery model's to the RMS of your amp, so if you have a 2600rms amp, you should have 2 batterys that add up to 2600 in model #'s, i can pull the quote out of the manual if need be.

But this leads me to belive that the 2000 in the back on the isolator would not be the propper choice, and that he should wire it up so that it is directly connected to my other 1800 upfront so i have a total of 3800, Well over enough battery power for my amp and would probably be best for preformance correct ?

thanks guys !

P.S thats my GF chelsesa who lives with me she says hi //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

could somebody answer this battery related question aswell please ?

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

and i see in your video you keep asking if it wired to 1 ohm. You cant tell by looking at it, you need a DMM to test what your final load is.

Ah ok i thought you could tell by looking at the way it was wired up if you knew the type of amp & subwoofers. Anyways can you guys please answer the battery quesiton above ? because i dont want to be upsold a battery isolater and have it installed if it is going to be what is not best for my car, because from the way the kinetik manual sounds it wants the amp to be able to draw from both batterys, I.E saying have equal or more # in model numbers compared to your RMS wattage.

 

[DownSouth954 10+ year member]

Just run the batteries in parallel and fuse correctly between the batteries. You have an HO alt?

 

[groundpound4200 5,000+ posts]

nice crops //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

 

[hornedfrog1985 5,000+ posts]

You should be allowed to watch the install. Just do some reading and do it yourself.

 

[snoopdan 5,000+ posts]

Just run the batteries in parallel and fuse correctly between the batteries. You have an HO alt?

Agreed 100% //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

 

[BobbyDD 10+ year member]

At about the 2 minute mark of the first video it look like the negative posts of the sub are connected together which assuming the subs are d4 ohm they would be at a final 1 ohm load.

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

Agreed 100% //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif

Thanks guys this helps alot ! the installer was trying to upsell me some battery isolator that is going to cost an extra 200$. I didnt think i needed it.

Anyways, the alternator is a 140amp, we are having a 160amp alt built one of the powermaster ones It is just going to take a bit, so the 140 is inplace of it for now, It is bran new.

So run the batterys together no isolater ? and i should be able to watch the install ? thanks alot guys //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif i would do it myself but i have some fairly artistic ideas for what i want done with my 2nd battery and it will need a bit more fibreglass witch i dont have acsess to or any knowledge of how to use.

I Will likely call around town and find a store that will work on it, and is willing to let me watch the install.

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

At about the 2 minute mark of the first video it look like the negative posts of the sub are connected together which assuming the subs are d4 ohm they would be at a final 1 ohm load.

on the hinfonics brutus 2600 the negatives and positives are right beside each other like this :

-- ++ the wiring if you look on the video, is crossed from 1 positive, to 1 negative, and then repeated for the other speaker wire. This is what lead me to belive it is not at 1ohm because i thought they where internally connected so it should be comming out with 1 pair of speaker wire connected strickly to the ++ and then another speaker wire connected to the -- a and run in parralell with the subwoofers or in series or somthing shouldnt it ?

This lack of ability to proove what my ohm's where is what really upset me about my installer, he wouldnt even test them when i asked him he just said

"it hammers doesnt it, dont touch anything" and didnt pull his ohm meter or w/e it is called out and test it for me.

Well those subwoofers are long gone, so there is nothing i can do about those. But i can deffinatly make sure to avoid going back to the same place, This system is starting to add up in cost and i dont want any stupid errors this install especially since my subwoofers have been custom built to D4 and NEED to be wired up propperly.