Bought 2 RE audio 18 SX's....... and....

[Bassman999 10+ year member]

my new amp Autotek MM4000.1 will benefit from one too, at that price I am going to buy one too.

 

[KINGDELL91 10+ year member]

just get that line driver i recommended. It will make you lower the gain down and improve sound quality at the same time

X2.... Lmao the strut tower not a bad idea, sounds like a bit of work. I have a Expedition mines is grounded on the bolts to my back seats which are bolted to the frame. Some say its not a good idea, but i sanded it and its all metal to metal i have no issues.

 

[Bassman999 10+ year member]

X2.... Lmao the strut tower not a bad idea, sounds like a bit of work. I have a Expedition mines is grounded on the bolts to my back seats which are bolted to the frame. Some say its not a good idea, but i sanded it and its all metal to metal i have no issues.

Should be fine as long as you cannot measure any voltage drop.

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

my new amp Autotek MM4000.1 will benefit from one too, at that price I am going to buy one too.

is it common to have one of thease things when having a big amplifier ? or is my gain settings where they are at now going to be ok when the box gets ported and everything, i have a feeling it will but i am going to get one of thease things regardless.

will have new caps in 4 days, after that will have updates on the enclosure, and also i am having them go over everything make sure all wires and connections are done propperly, and if the cost for the new box isnt to much and they can work with the fibreglass we have now, then they will likely put our kinetik hc2000 in aswell.

This is all gonna happen fast, i thought id never have my system agian i am in huge relief!

so thease must be horizontally ported correct? can the subwoofers be facing upwards but the ports be horizontal or do the subwoofers have to be facing horizontally like the ports, and should it just be 1 big port or 1 for each sub on each side of the box ?

i just want to make sure i ge tthe correct information for the next company that does thease babys i want this box to pound and i want to get the best quality out of it since it is going to be free.

 

[Bassman999 10+ year member]

ports facing the same way as the subs is best. the subs are bridged off one amp so one large port is fine. usually 12-16^2 of port per cubic foot of box is normal btw.

For example if your box is actually 10 ft^3 b4 port you might do a 10x12 port 22.5" long to tune you to 35 hz. That gives you a net volume of 8.3 ft^3

Never amplifiers can take a larger signal voltage than they used to. That is why the line driver is good to make up for the short comings of the decks we have

 

[1ndatrunk 10+ year member]

Ports/subs facing up in a trunk usually sounds like a$$, and has lots of cancellation. It may work, but it would be a rare case. Subs up/ports back or to the side works best in trunks, the best would be subs /ports rear or firing into the car, but I'm not sure of your trunk heigth and depth. Just my 2cents

 

[Bassman999 10+ year member]

Ports/subs facing up in a trunk usually sounds like a$$, and has lots of cancellation. It may work, but it would be a rare case. Subs up/ports back or to the side works best in trunks, the best would be subs /ports rear or firing into the car, but I'm not sure of your trunk heigth and depth. Just my 2cents

I dont know if they will actually build him a new box or just modify the one he has.

Now if he can get a (new) box, then I say subs and port back. and bigger than the box is now would be preferable if space allows. I doubt you can get more volume than the box is now though as the box is utilizing the spare tire area as well now.

Maybe amp and batt in spare tire area to make more room for a bigger box?

 

[BobbyDD 10+ year member]

The wiring on the subwoofers does not look like that diagram at all, it is wired up completely differantly each subwoofer has its own speaker-cable, and they go to the channels on the amp -- ++ and each speaker cable is bridged from a + to a - then goes to the woofer, connects to the - + then 2 small cables go around back and connect to the other connection points, the other subwoofer is setup the same.

Are you saying a positive and a negative are connected together on the subs? If they are I don't know how you're ending up with a 1 ohm load. When checking with your dmm are you checking the load for each sub or both together?

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

Are you saying a positive and a negative are connected together on the subs? If they are I don't know how you're ending up with a 1 ohm load. When checking with your dmm are you checking the load for each sub or both together?

each subwoofer indivudually, because i placed it on one positive terminal and one negative terminal as i was instructed.

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

I dont know if they will actually build him a new box or just modify the one he has.
Now if he can get a (new) box, then I say subs and port back. and bigger than the box is now would be preferable if space allows. I doubt you can get more volume than the box is now though as the box is utilizing the spare tire area as well now.

Maybe amp and batt in spare tire area to make more room for a bigger box?

They are going to re-do the hole trunk to make the box work, i said to them use the fibreglass if you can because i would prefer to keep the box fibreglass as it can be more moldable to my trunk and utilize more space, so the subwoofers facing outwards horizontally and a big *** port on 1 side of them correct ?

Either way, i am sure they will figure out how to make it all work it is in their hands now, I dont think it will be too too much work as my hole trunk has already been gutted, they have alot of space to work with.

Also if the amp and batt went down in the spare tire area i would loose most of my airspace that is what is opening the trunk up mostly, without that i know for a fact that there wouldnt be enough space because the trunk from lid to floor(when wheel well is covered ) is barely 18 inches.

The subwoofers are going to have to be horizontally placed where the wheel well is so that they can be placed down lower, and have the box built around them and the port built on the side.

They are probably going to be fairly close to the back end of my trunk but with this configuration they are probably going to just pound.

hopefully they do my new battery for me aswell.

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g42/Krannyman92/rmschartpm5.jpg

is this a correct graph/tutorial?

 

[mcsoul 10+ year member]

Out of phase, mis-wired in terms of impedance and

finally last but not least sealed RE SX 18's cannot sound good.

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

Ports/subs facing up in a trunk usually sounds like a$$, and has lots of cancellation. It may work, but it would be a rare case. Subs up/ports back or to the side works best in trunks, the best would be subs /ports rear or firing into the car, but I'm not sure of your trunk heigth and depth. Just my 2cents

well a member in this post said DO NOT port them upwards as it will act like a sealed enclosure is this correct?

thease SX's need the propper setup, and i am really wanting to give it to them now that i have the advantage of futureshop screwing up my first box and now owing me a free one.

So our 3 options are :

-subwoofers facing upwards towards trunk lid like they are now with vertical porting down on the side of the box, where it leads up to the face of the box, Also facing out towards the back end of the car.

Would this work ? with my trunk i think that this will probably be the easyest way to fit a ported box with 18''s in my trunk.

-Subwoofers facing upwards, ports facing upwards, if this is not going to damage the woofers and actuallly work, just not as well then it will need to be looked at as an option due to overall size restrictions in the trunk.

-subwoofers facing vertically face out towards the back end of the trunk with the box built around them and a vertical port on the right side of the box ( the most prefferable setup for myself, but will our space allow it ? )

i really need some good, detailed information on the above porting methods, and witch ones thease RE audio SX's will go along with.

I dont want a store to put blood sweat and tears into a free box for me and then have them blow because it wasnt made propperly.

my 2 favorite options are subwoofers facing upwards towards trunk lid, port vertically on the box where the box travels up to the face where the subwoofers sit, Or have the subwoofers face out and stand vertically like the port aswell.

RE audio experts where are you !

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

Out of phase, mis-wired in terms of impedance andfinally last but not least sealed RE SX 18's cannot sound good.

How can you tell that they are out of phase and mis-wired ?

 

[knowledgestick 10+ year member]

Are you saying a positive and a negative are connected together on the subs? If they are I don't know how you're ending up with a 1 ohm load. When checking with your dmm are you checking the load for each sub or both together?

The fellow at futureshop checked our voice coils for any damage, and both where good and still had all there coils the subwoofers arnt damaged.

How can i check both subwoofers together ?

 

[Bassman999 10+ year member]

Porting the subs and facing them up will not ruin them. If your trunk is not big enough to make a new box facing them backwards then u cant face em back. The guy who said it will sound like *** means that your trunk lid will take a beating from the subs and port firing directly at them and be very noisy. You will definitely need to sound dampen your lid.

Re audio recommends 5.5-8.0 ft^3 per sub ported at 35hz. So you are looking at 11-16ft^3 (net).

Your box you have presently isnt big enough to take full advantage of them. Actually your bix is just a little bigger than optimal for just one. with enough port area that box would be perfect size for one of them. You would have been better off with 2 15" subs imo.