This is a follow up to a previous post I put out... Going to do the big 3 upgrade.
I have a 2004 Sentra. I have 1 alpine m-1000 powering 2 cvr comp 10's (kicker) that run 400w rms each. I have a 1 zx-350.4 powering 4 speakers all of which are 60w rms. My lights dim and I need more power.
I have a new starter battery. I have the original alternator.
I will do the big 3 and if that doesn't take care of things I will install a second, deep cycle battery in the trunk.
Questions:
1. From what I can find online the original alt puts out about 60 amps. If that's the case why do I need 1/0 gauge wire like everyone recommends? I have some 2 gauge welding cable that has an amp capacity of 190 amps, won't that work just fine?
2. I see that there a lot of different types of battery terminals for car audio installation. Are they all made of the same materials? Are any made of better materials than others? Can I just go to my local tool store and get a terminal that will accomodate the larger cable or do I need to buy the expensive ones made by audio companies?
3. Nissan grounds the battery to the engine block not the chassis. I should change that to ground on the chassis, correct? Isn't the original configuration just creating a longer path for the current to find it's way back to the battery negative? (from the amp neg to the chassis to the block to the battery neg, instead of amp neg to chassis to battery neg.) Am I understanding this right?
4. Any tips on reattaching the fuse box line from the positive battery terminal after I've created a new battery terminal for the alternator attachment? I'm attempting to leave all cables untouched and attached so that when I sell this car it will be easy to revert it back to factory condition.
Thanks again to anyone who takes the time to weigh in on this.
I have a 2004 Sentra. I have 1 alpine m-1000 powering 2 cvr comp 10's (kicker) that run 400w rms each. I have a 1 zx-350.4 powering 4 speakers all of which are 60w rms. My lights dim and I need more power.
I have a new starter battery. I have the original alternator.
I will do the big 3 and if that doesn't take care of things I will install a second, deep cycle battery in the trunk.
Questions:
1. From what I can find online the original alt puts out about 60 amps. If that's the case why do I need 1/0 gauge wire like everyone recommends? I have some 2 gauge welding cable that has an amp capacity of 190 amps, won't that work just fine?
2. I see that there a lot of different types of battery terminals for car audio installation. Are they all made of the same materials? Are any made of better materials than others? Can I just go to my local tool store and get a terminal that will accomodate the larger cable or do I need to buy the expensive ones made by audio companies?
3. Nissan grounds the battery to the engine block not the chassis. I should change that to ground on the chassis, correct? Isn't the original configuration just creating a longer path for the current to find it's way back to the battery negative? (from the amp neg to the chassis to the block to the battery neg, instead of amp neg to chassis to battery neg.) Am I understanding this right?
4. Any tips on reattaching the fuse box line from the positive battery terminal after I've created a new battery terminal for the alternator attachment? I'm attempting to leave all cables untouched and attached so that when I sell this car it will be easy to revert it back to factory condition.
Thanks again to anyone who takes the time to weigh in on this.