Best 6.5 Speaker

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Aside from sealing up the doors which I will have done much better in the future, I found a set of hertz 163 for $400. I’ve always thought good things about them but never heard them, would they be worth it?

if you like midbass, you should see cscstang's mustang setup. His crescendo pwx 8s literally make your shorts fly with the amount of air/pressure they put out with those 60-150hz notes. Literally sounds like he has a sub in his car with his subs completely off.

properly deadened even with dirt cheap drivers ran active creates great results.

 

[kcr357 10+ year member]

from midbass alone, try both plastic door panel and door flex lol. The rear wave absorption also mellowed out the muddiness you get in the 300hz range naturally without any need to lower the EQ for it. Sealing the gaps and holes with mlv alone got me from 100hz down to 60hz response. From CLD it made my mids reach from 60hz down to 50hz. I did lag on the install and did stuff step by step and was able to notice slight nuances with every step.

Have you even seen turf/footpad material for jetskis? It's a 1/4" thick closed cell foam with an adhesive layer on back. Im a dealer for one of the manufacturers and can get a 4x8 foot sheet for like 40 bucks...any chance it would work as deadener or barrier?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Have you even seen turf/footpad material for jetskis? It's a 1/4" thick closed cell foam with an adhesive layer on back. Im a dealer for one of the manufacturers and can get a 4x8 foot sheet for like 40 bucks...any chance it would work as deadener or barrier?

closed cell foam alone does nothing. its just there to prevent stuff from rubbing against eachother, basically rattle prevention, nothing else.

 

[kcr357 10+ year member]

Ok , ****

 

[kcr357 10+ year member]

Holy shlt.....

So in that link the dynamat is for reducing resonance, the fiberglass ceiling tile is used to absorb the backwave, and he used the mlv to seal the panel, right?

And "decoupling" means fixing rattles....

you might be having some misconceptions here. If you think stock speakers have better midbass, you are mislead. Stock speakers actually play sub bass aka down to 40-50hz strong because they are full range drivers. Midbass takes a lot of door prep, literally turning the door into a proper speaker enclosure via deadening, mass loaded vinyl, CCF and even some plastic filled acoustic insulation to absorb the back wave. Afterwards the midbass response is a powerful snap and thud that punches your chest, not the boom you get from your stock speakers.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Holy shlt.....So in that link the dynamat is for reducing resonance, the fiberglass ceiling tile is used to absorb the backwave, and he used the mlv to seal the panel, right?

And "decoupling" means fixing rattles....

yup.

Decoupling means making making sure two hard surfaces dont vibrate against eachother so yes its pure rattle treatment/prevention. You'll want all the prevention you can because when you do it right, its globs of midbass that will flex doors and shake mirrors even without the sub.

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

[quote name='Papermaker85']Matter fact @denim shoot me an e-mail/pm so I can buy a pair it's not sweat off of my back I got the money and my birthday is Monday so I'll just buy some because I want them.[/QUOTE]

21st.

 

[kcr357 10+ year member]

yup.
Decoupling means making making sure two hard surfaces dont vibrate against eachother so yes its pure rattle treatment/prevention. You'll want all the prevention you can because when you do it right, its globs of midbass that will flex doors and shake mirrors even without the sub.

Thanks dude, i really appreciate it.

Theres a possibilty i wouldve just thrown some anarchy mids into the stock speaker holes and slapped the door panel back on without all that info.

 

[BassDrop]

I know this is a very broad title, but I'm quite unsure of what would be the best application for my car. I am currently running 6.5" coaxial Alpine type R speakers in my car off of an Arc Audio KS300.4. I like the speakers but now that I have upgraded my subwoofers, they don't seem to be able to blend as well. Are there any 6.5" speaker sets that have the capability to get really loud without blowing or really having to worry, with good midbass also?
A local dealer recommended having custom door panels made and simply running two sets of alpine type r coaxials in the fronts. If this were the case I imagine I would need a new amplifier.

Any suggestions?

If you want some door speakers that get pretty loud get Crescendos Ultra Neos they get LOUD AS **** but have no midbass lol

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

21st.

No way. What time. You not a scorpio..

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

If you want some door speakers that get pretty loud get Crescendos Ultra Neos they get LOUD AS **** but have no midbass lol

actually man they do have good 80hz and up. just nothing underneath that. Door treatments do wonders. They thump decently well in that range but require at least 150 rms.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

actually man they do have good 80hz and up. just nothing underneath that. Door treatments do wonders. They thump decently well in that range but require at least 150 rms.

I can't wait to hear my mids. Hope they smash off 250..

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

No way. What time. You not a scorpio..

1:43 am

 

[BassDrop]

actually man they do have good 80hz and up. just nothing underneath that. Door treatments do wonders. They thump decently well in that range but require at least 150 rms.

Ithen I guess Its just that i Xovered them at 160hz lol

 

[denim 5,000+ posts]

[quote name='Papermaker85']Matter fact @denim shoot me an e-mail/pm so I can buy a pair it's not sweat off of my back I got the money and my birthday is Monday so I'll just buy some because I want them.[/QUOTE]

Best email address to use?