Do us all a favor. Buy some of those mids then let us know how they are after you install them. Because right now, I know for a FACT...you've never had them and continue running thy mouth.
I know for a fact I know the physics behind loudspeakers you and the other hand I have no clue I give you a quick lesson 6 millimeters of X Max and a Well Control suspension and IB installation where the fs is close to the xover point will have the best and most stable midbass unlike a lot of those low qes and low FS drivers that will be really peaks in a small bandwidth in the midbass region around FS.
you might be having some misconceptions here. If you think stock speakers have better midbass, you are mislead. Stock speakers actually play sub bass aka down to 40-50hz strong because they are full range drivers. Midbass takes a lot of door prep, literally turning the door into a proper speaker enclosure via deadening, mass loaded vinyl, CCF and even some plastic filled acoustic insulation to absorb the back wave. Afterwards the midbass response is a powerful snap and thud that punches your chest, not the boom you get from your stock speakers.
Any links to a good deadening thread you could send my way?
yeah "some deadening" is not enough. Its not the speaker's fault 90% of the times. Its because the person has no idea what it takes to get proper midbass. You literally have to turn your door into a well insulated fully sealed, properly baffled and fully deadened speaker enclosure. Just slapping some deadener on the car doesnt do jack sh*t. Check the thread i listed. thats literally exactly what you need to do for any speaker to put out midbass. If you miss out on any part of that, say good bye to midbass because you'll never get it. Best you'll achieve is a half @ss midbass response.
You don’t have to go that far. Sealing it up is enough. If you have rattles then add CFF. If you got a lot of road noise add MLV.
Thx
from midbass alone, try both plastic door panel and door flex lol. The rear wave absorption also mellowed out the muddiness you get in the 300hz range naturally without any need to lower the EQ for it. Sealing the gaps and holes with mlv alone got me from 100hz down to 60hz response. From CLD it made my mids reach from 60hz down to 50hz. I did lag on the install and did stuff step by step and was able to notice slight nuances with every step.
