Battery question

[RokintypeRs 10+ year member]

Is it a good idea to isolate a Kinetik HC600 to dedicate it to my car audio? I've been reading up on Kinetik's website and they all say on the FAQ's that the HC600 and HC800 should be supplemental power and no isolator is needed and it would defeat the purpose of supplemental power. Would it be better to have it be isolated? I am currently running 2 Pioneer TS-W3002D4's and a Hifonics BRX2400.1D with a 250 amp circuit breaker and running off a Power Acoustik 30 Farad capacitor and I will be soon putting in a Kinetik HC600 on the audio and I am only wondering if it is a good idea to isolate it. Any input would be nice thanks.

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[Nutdawg651]

No run it parallel with your starter up front fused near both batteries and hook up your amp to the kinetik

, only play the system when the car is on and engine is a 2000 rpm

 

[murph 10+ year member]

If you plan on demoing or running the system with the car turned off for decent periods of time than get an isolator. It's that simple.

 

[RokintypeRs 10+ year member]

If you plan on demoing or running the system with the car turned off for decent periods of time than get an isolator. It's that simple.

Yes but if I were to put an isolator on the system, would it make the car battery do all the work to the audio with the car on? My concern is if I were to put an isolator on it, while I am driving the car would the "cap killer" (KHC600) supply supplemental power and voltage to the audio equipment under load, or would the actual car battery power everything? I am trying to make the HC600 more of a capacitor and supply my amp what it needs. Is getting an isolator even worth it? By the way, I failed to mention that I have an Optima YellowTop battery in front with the Big 3.

 

[murph 10+ year member]

Both batteries will be helping to power your system. Isolators are not worth it unless as I said you plan on playing with your car turned off.

 

[bbeljefe]

When the car is running, the alternator supplies most of the current used. Batteries are there to help a large audio system, not run it. As was said already, if you're going to listen with the vehicle not running often, then use an isolator. If not, don't worry about it.

The only thing the isolator is going to do is prevent the audio system from using the main battery for power, so consider that before you buy one.

And also, ditch the circuit breaker and put a fuse on the system. Circuit breakers often don't trip fast enough during a low resistance short and can cause damage to the electrical system and/or your amplifiers. If you want to keep the CB as a quick disconnect, then that's fine but again... fuse that power line.

 

[RokintypeRs 10+ year member]

Ok thanks. I thought that it was not worth it. Thanks again I know I can come to you guys to help!

 

[RokintypeRs 10+ year member]

When the car is running, the alternator supplies most of the current used. Batteries are there to help a large audio system, not run it. As was said already, if you're going to listen with the vehicle not running often, then use an isolator. If not, don't worry about it.
The only thing the isolator is going to do is prevent the audio system from using the main battery for power, so consider that before you buy one.

And also, ditch the circuit breaker and put a fuse on the system. Circuit breakers often don't trip fast enough during a low resistance short and can cause damage to the electrical system and/or your amplifiers. If you want to keep the CB as a quick disconnect, then that's fine but again... fuse that power line.

^^ That is, if the system shorts. I just like the circuit breaker because it provides a killswitch and I don't have to keep buying a huge fuse if I need to. And I must point out that it is a TruConnex Circuit breaker so I believe it is CEA-2015 compliant and will trip fast enough to detect the short. Fuses for me right now are just a step back in the past.

 

[bbeljefe]

And you only need fire insurance if your house catches fire. Certified or not, circuit breakers trip on thermal loads and thermal devices wear and fail... especially when they're in a hostile environment like the engine compartment of a vehicle. Moreover, every time a breaker is tripped, contact resistance rises and thus, voltage drops and higher current can be expected, which becomes wasted energy in the form of heat across the breaker's contacts... which increases the probability of future failures.

Also, a properly sized anl fuse won't blow unless it's supposed to blow, so if you've had problems with fuses blowing in the past, you've been under fusing. Either that or you were using the right fuse for the wire but not the right wire for the current draw your amps need.

But I understand that whole not wanting to be in the past thing. So running a breaker might be better, because I'm sure there will be some cool new amps to buy in the future when that breaker wipes out your system. ;-)