Bandpass Crossover or DSP?

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SteelKiller
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I want to run my 3.5" coaxials off the front channel with a crossover of 800hz and up. Want to run the 6x9 woofers off the rear channel with frequency range of 80ish up to 800hz. First, is 800hz too high for a 6x9 woofer(not coax) and second would I be better off with a dsp or an amp with a bandpass crossover. I am leaning towards dsp but what do the pros say?
 
Go active/Dsp and if if H/U allows, narrow your signal source.. then tune the thing.
3 Way active is such a big deal around here. Jeez...
 
K.I.S.S. it as much as you can... adding equipment can introduce noise and that's so 90's with the equipment available today.
Factory sources need help usually... a Dsp and factory unequailzed signal is optimum but not what you have most times if integrating...
If you can go active with your source... 3 way allows you to really dial it in... even a 2 way crossover will let you to get those components blended well, Sq, Sql.. Spl... tuning is a lost art Imo.
Don't look at the mids supposed capabilities/range and set your x-overs there... so many do.
Bandpass where they work with your power for example/in your install with your music.
Idk your system... but keeping your signal 100% from the music source is always best.
Usually factory sux.
Know your equipment...
Jmo
 
Currently I have Kenwood KFC6903c "component" set. I know it's not a true component set but they sound pretty decent for $200!!! I have a Kenwood Excelon 706s for a deck. Rear doors are older Alpine type S 6x9 coaxials. I don't plan on powering the rear doors with anything other than deck or just deleting them altogether eventually. No subs right now but that will come as the budget allows. The 6903's have a passive crossover for both the 3.5" coaxial and another for the woofer. I can do away with both with a dsp I assume.
 
I have a Kenwood Excelon 706s for a deck. No subs right now but that will come as the budget allows.
4V /w/ time alignment and 13 band EQ /w/ 3 way active x-over capability on that deck?
I like to spend someone else's money... it don't cost me anything!
Sounds to me like you have the capability to run active. You got almost a DSP in the dash if used correctly.
I'd go with some separates up front amplified and crossed over with nothing in back or at deck power at best. Substage is something you should plan for eventually whether it be a single 10" sub or 2 15's.
Car audio is all about the bass whether it be some Sq alignment (localization), Sql or something that hurts... daily or comp. User has so much to add... some x-over and level adjustments can transform a spl setup into an almost Sq setup... install dependent.
I'd say run yours in a 2-way active/amplified setup and add a sub if possible... hey... it's YOUR vehicle and money.
Once again... it's your vehicle and know/plan YOUR equipment.
In my exp tuning is a lost art... 10+ yr member?
I'm sure you got this.
 
Yes, it has all that you mentioned. Good sound quality and features for the money!!! So, after digging around I was able to switch it to 3 way active mode. Actually it was pretty easy to do. That enabled low pass, high pass and a band pass crossover. Now the question i have is does this do me any good right now without external amplification? It seemed like it had a little more low end oomph in 3 way mode but other than that?!? I guess it's time for some sound treatment and amplifier for the front stage!!!
 
Yes, it has all that you mentioned. Good sound quality and features for the money!!! So, after digging around I was able to switch it to 3 way active mode. Actually it was pretty easy to do. That enabled low pass, high pass and a band pass crossover. Now the question i have is does this do me any good right now without external amplification? It seemed like it had a little more low end oomph in 3 way mode but other than that?!? I guess it's time for some sound treatment and amplifier for the front stage!!!
you need an amp period dude.
 
Yes, it has all that you mentioned. Good sound quality and features for the money!!! So, after digging around I was able to switch it to 3 way active mode. Actually it was pretty easy to do. That enabled low pass, high pass and a band pass crossover. Now the question i have is does this do me any good right now without external amplification? It seemed like it had a little more low end oomph in 3 way mode but other than that?!? I guess it's time for some sound treatment and amplifier for the front stage!!!
As Jeffdachef said... you need an amp. I also have the DMX706S short chassis, media only head unit. You can get away with a single amp... a nice 5 channel amp. If it were me and it was my ride I would run two tweeters, two midrange drivers and a single subwoofer off a 5 channel amp with the eXcelon in active mode. This means only one power and ground wire to power the amp saves install hassle and saves room... ish. Less wiring, less noise. Spend the saved money on sound deadening material. A simple one amp, active set up that should be very loud and very clean sounding. What vehicle is it?
 
As Jeffdachef said... you need an amp. I also have the DMX706S short chassis, media only head unit. You can get away with a single amp... a nice 5 channel amp. If it were me and it was my ride I would run two tweeters, two midrange drivers and a single subwoofer off a 5 channel amp with the eXcelon in active mode. This means only one power and ground wire to power the amp saves install hassle and saves room... ish. Less wiring, less noise. Spend the saved money on sound deadening material. A simple one amp, active set up that should be very loud and very clean sounding. What vehicle is it?
It is in a 17 Ram Crew Cab. One amp sounds nice as I was planning on 2!!! I just worry about the sun channel being strong enough?
 
It is in a 17 Ram Crew Cab. One amp sounds nice as I was planning on 2!!! I just worry about the sun channel being strong enough?
If you are being realistic with what you want, how much room you have to work with and are willing to give up (bass takes space), what you can afford or what you want to spend you should be fine. Your doors hold factory 6x9's (There are speaker adapters that allow you to mount a 6.5" and a tweeter in a 6x9 location). Don't let "watts" fool you... I have a 75w peak 35w rms JBL 8" sub in my house and it shakes the place in an open room. The enclosure should be a priority, don't skimp on it.

There are several 75w x 4 + 500 x 1 and 100w x 4 + 600 x 1 RMS amps out there such as Kicker, Rockford Fosgate, Alpine and so on. If you put a 12" sub in an enclosure made for that sub and it handles 500w rms and you put a 500 or 600w rms amp on it and set the gain correctly I promise you that single 12" sub will move a lot of air and more importantly it will do it all day.
 
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SteelKiller

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