Audiopipe APSM-1500 Protection for a few seconds?

[Quick 10+ year member]

Mine went into protect once, and it wasn't thermal. Shoot, it's never gotten all that hot... and I've played it at full tilt for hours. It was caused by two ring terminals that I forgot to grind the burrs off of after drilling them out. They weren't seated well, at all. It was a stupid thing to overlook, and it caused a bad electrical connection. Have you checked ALL of your electrical connections to make sure they're good and tight? It could be just one bad connection. That's all it takes. And if you play it hard with bad electrical, it can damage any amp..... Which may also have been what happened. Bad things happen when you you're learning how to do something as you are doing it, rather than before hand. Been there. Multiple times.

So you don't think warranty will cover this?

 

[Quick 10+ year member]

And this is where setting with a DMM at some arbitrary frequency fails. OP finds a song that has a bass note nowhere near resonance (hence not very loud to the ear) and the amp is now seeing a load at or possibly below DCR so he pushes it harder and into protect again.
Is car running when you are doing this? If your dad is an electrician does he have a "clamp" to check current?

Bass +7 on the head unit is a recipe for disaster IMO. +7db means it is trying to put out nearly 10X the voltage it would attempt to do at 0 so running into clipping FROM the head unit is very likely at half volume on your knob. Gain on the amp is NOT a volume knob, saying it's "half way" is meaningless and doesn't tell anyone anything.

Pretty sure he does have a clamp to check current, not 100% tho I'll ask tomorrow.

The +7 isn't db on bass boost, it's just the uppage in volts coming through the RCA's. I have 2 other bass boost setting that are at 0 or off.

I was playin a song tho, not a hard hitting song at all, pretty weak. Had the gain at about 15% and it still went into protect, the thing barely bumped and it still protected. Something went wrong, real bad. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 

[av83 10+ year member]

And this is where setting with a DMM at some arbitrary frequency fails. OP finds a song that has a bass note nowhere near resonance (hence not very loud to the ear) and the amp is now seeing a load at or possibly below DCR so he pushes it harder and into protect again.
Is car running when you are doing this? If your dad is an electrician does he have a "clamp" to check current?

Bass +7 on the head unit is a recipe for disaster IMO. +7db means it is trying to put out nearly 10X the voltage it would attempt to do at 0 so running into clipping FROM the head unit is very likely at half volume on your knob. Gain on the amp is NOT a volume knob, saying it's "half way" is meaningless and doesn't tell anyone anything.

He's talking about the subwoofer level, I was under the impression that this function only increased preout voltage on the sub rca's and wasn't an eq function. Am I wrong? Because, I've read this in many different posts/threads....

 

[av83 10+ year member]

So you don't think warranty will cover this?

I've heard decent things about 3 kings. That's where I got mine, too. I imagine you will be ok. Just tell them it didn't work right from the outset, which sounds about right anyway. My brother has a stock alt, stock battery, no big three, and a crap bullz audio 4 gauge power wire, and bangs the ever living shit outta his apsm1500, daily. Unless you did something REALLY wrong it's probably due to a manufacturing error, or mishandling(tossed around too hard) during shipping.

 

[jirehn 10+ year member]

How much did you get this audiopipe apsm-1500 ?

 

[av83 10+ year member]

How much did you get this audiopipe apsm-1500 ?

Mine was about $120.

 

[madcad95 10+ year member]

Turns out my dads had a multimeter for a loooong time so this weekend I'll be going home and will do it then.
Do I need to take out all 4 speaker wires that's connect to the amp and read it on any pair of pos and negatives?

Or can I just check the volts as the speaker wires are in?

Oh another question (lol sorry for so many) On my head unit I need to turn my subwoofer level to 0 or +15? Also like the bass boost on level 1,2, or off? Then there's a bass level that I have turned down to -8 because my 3 ways speakers **** and distort with too much bass. Same with treble, I have it turned up not on 0. Do I put everything on 0 or leave it where I normally have it for everyday riding around?

Lol nobody caught that he is using all 4 speaker outputs on the amp which means he has the single sub hooked up in parallel which means best case he is at 1 ohm but more then likely at .5 on a stock electrical //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 

[madcad95 10+ year member]

So much effort for nothing lol

 

[Mitch86 5,000+ posts]

Lol nobody caught that he is using all 4 speaker outputs on the amp which means he has the single sub hooked up in parallel which means best case he is at 1 ohm but more then likely at .5 on a stock electrical //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

those terminals areconnected internally... connecting both positives to positives and both negatives to negatives wouldn't change the impedance. It would be the same as running 4 speaker wires from a single vc sub and having 2 pos and 2 neg. Wouldn't make any difference. There's no way to wire a D4 sub to .5.

 

[madcad95 10+ year member]

Hmmmm when did audioque start making the hdc3 in a dual 4 ohm ? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 

[madcad95 10+ year member]

So you have the sub wired in parallel please take your multimeter and ohm out the sub with the amp turned off //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Mitch86 5,000+ posts]

Hmmmm when did audioque start making the hdc3 in a dual 4 ohm ? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

you could be right. I was assuming dual 4 because he said he has it wired @ 2ohm. Maybe he has a D1 and does in fact have it wired to .5.... either way, my point still stands that using both terminals on the amp can't result in a 1ohm load and a .5 load etc. The coil configuration of the subwoofer will determine the load at the amp.

 

[madcad95 10+ year member]

Ok goodluck I hope you get it figured out //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

He's talking about the subwoofer level, I was under the impression that this function only increased preout voltage on the sub rca's and wasn't an eq function. Am I wrong? Because, I've read this in many different posts/threads....

Yes, it's trying to boost the voltage to the subwoofer channel by about 10X (I assume +7 means +7db). Not like that function magically makes that HU capable of more voltage than it can deliver cleanly otherwise. IMO there are very few reasons to ever use any of that stuff on the HU.

Pretty sure he does have a clamp to check current, not 100% tho I'll ask tomorrow.
The +7 isn't db on bass boost, it's just the uppage in volts coming through the RCA's. I have 2 other bass boost setting that are at 0 or off.

I was playin a song tho, not a hard hitting song at all, pretty weak. Had the gain at about 15% and it still went into protect, the thing barely bumped and it still protected. Something went wrong, real bad. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

Again, not like you just discovered a magical way to make that HU produce more voltage on that subwoofer channel output. For all intents and purposes it's the same thing as the "bass boost" but over a wider bandwidth so most likely even more dangerous.

What impedence is that woofer anyway? How is it hooked up? Current clamp will help you actually see how much power you're making eventually.

Lol nobody caught that he is using all 4 speaker outputs on the amp which means he has the single sub hooked up in parallel which means best case he is at 1 ohm but more then likely at .5 on a stock electrical //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

I was looking for impedence in the first page or so and only saw "2 ohm". At this point, OP trying to run this amp at .5 ohm would explain a lot.

 

[av83 10+ year member]

What impedence is that woofer anyway? How is it hooked up? Current clamp will help you actually see how much power you're making eventually.

I was looking for impedence in the first page or so and only saw "2 ohm". At this point, OP trying to run this amp at .5 ohm would explain a lot.

Last night the same thought occurred to me... because we had all been assuming that he was working with a dual 4. i shot him a pm asking for sure. ...no answer yet.

Edit: Nevermind... found the answer. It is a d1.

Alright so I'll get the d1 and run it's rms at 1000W. Can I run on stock electrical? What gauge wire do I need to run the power you think?

found it in this thread... http://www.caraudio.com/forums/subwoofers/546977-getting-better-system-need-some-opinions-4.html

he asked how to wire it up at the end, but I don't think he got an answer before doing it.... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif