Amp still popping fuses..

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

Nope. They are still fundenmemtally the same. I have one to load test moron.

oh ok so load tests have to do with quality? do you know what cycle life is? why would you pay a premium for a battery that is exactly the same as another

optima batteries are not what they were previously built on, and they're still living on that idea of "oh yeah i have an optima must be an awesome top quality battery totally happy i spent more"

 

[JDay]

I theorized that, that may be the case. I would assume that it wouldn't work at near max volume though, or at max volume at all. How could I test that I am clipping it? I've always wondered this, since it doesn't have a "clipping" indicator.

With an oscope. You can also but a DD-1 or DD-1+ and use that to set your gains. You could also get an AMM-1 to check for clipping in real-time.

Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

lol....Get 'em wew lad, get him!!

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Says the guy who knows NOT.I have a redtop and they are great batteries.

Redo all your connections and reset your gains..

WTF? Look at my CACO build log and you'll see my connections, clearly. But....what does this stupid comment have to do with OP's issue? I know I have one myself, however that was before they went titsup.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Fyi. I do automation and maintenance.

Emptying trash cans and sweeping/mopping the floors doesn't count as maintenance.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

If it's not a low voltage issue or amp or sub, the only things left are the source unit, wiring, or you're just over-driving the hell out of it.

This or clipping. Maxing the stereo at full volume/full tilt continuously isn't always ideal. Driving the volume full blast is typically when people are demoing or at db drags, OP.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

WTF? Look at my CACO build log and you'll see my connections, clearly. But....what does this stupid comment have to do with OP's issue? I know I have one myself, however that was before they went titsup.

You are beyomd a retard.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

oh ok so load tests have to do with quality? do you know what cycle life is? why would you pay a premium for a battery that is exactly the same as another
optima batteries are not what they were previously built on, and they're still living on that idea of "oh yeah i have an optima must be an awesome top quality battery totally happy i spent more"

You are on crack. The optima is FINE. I play my system with the car off alot with 0 problem . They proform as expected. Do i need to load test it for you?

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

This or clipping. Maxing the stereo at full volume/full tilt continuously isn't always ideal. Driving the volume full blast is typically when people are demoing or at db drags, OP.

My lord you are ******* clueless. I play my system at full blast for several songs no problem.

 

[CplCuddles]

This or clipping. Maxing the stereo at full volume/full tilt continuously isn't always ideal. Driving the volume full blast is typically when people are demoing or at db drags, OP.

I suppose. Although it isn't loud enough even now so I just full tilt it. Lol. I plan on upgrading more, just money.

 

[CplCuddles]

This or clipping. Maxing the stereo at full volume/full tilt continuously isn't always ideal. Driving the volume full blast is typically when people are demoing or at db drags, OP.

My lord you are ******* clueless. I play my system at full blast for several songs no problem.

Talked to the shop that bench tested it. They ran it at 1ohm full power for like 30 min said there was no problem.

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

WOW... this is a crazy problem... this is your SECOND thread associated with this problem... and you're still nowhere with this?.. this is a reach but this guys amp was NOT fused but went into thermal overload and got really hot on the way there... just a stab in the dark...

This sounds strangely familiar... these guys had a new Skar RP 2000.1 and were running it at 1 ohm which it is supposed to be able to do... the thing was getting hot and would go to protection after 10 minutes from a cold start... he has NO issues with electrical... (god I wish I had his electrical)... but the amp would get so hot it was scary then shut down... nobody could come up with a solution... and there were at least 15 guys there... he had fans mounted at the amps but it did not help... just on a lark he took a stab in the dark... he decided to pull his subs... the 2 15's he had were playing just fine... he tested impedance while moving the cone to different positions and guess what?.. at ONE brief point the coil was shorting out... his impedance actually zeroed if he could hold the cone still enough... That's a reach I admit... I'm pretty sure you'll find an answer that's more common... but his amp got HOT and shut down after playing 10 minutes starting cold and even less when hot...

Now maybe you sub is shorting and lowering the impedance briefly... just enough to cause it to draw a bunch of current?... IDK... good luck with this...

 

[CplCuddles]

WOW... this is a crazy problem... this is your SECOND thread associated with this problem... and you're still nowhere with this?.. this is a reach but this guys amp was NOT fused but went into thermal overload and got really hot on the way there... just a stab in the dark... This sounds strangely familiar... these guys had a new Skar RP 2000.1 and were running it at 1 ohm which it is supposed to be able to do... the thing was getting hot and would go to protection after 10 minutes from a cold start... he has NO issues with electrical... (god I wish I had his electrical)... but the amp would get so hot it was scary then shut down... nobody could come up with a solution... and there were at least 15 guys there... he had fans mounted at the amps but it did not help... just on a lark he took a stab in the dark... he decided to pull his subs... the 2 15's he had were playing just fine... he tested impedance while moving the cone to different positions and guess what?.. at ONE brief point the coil was shorting out... his impedance actually zeroed if he could hold the cone still enough... That's a reach I admit... I'm pretty sure you'll find an answer that's more common... but his amp got HOT and shut down after playing 10 minutes starting cold and even less when hot...

Now maybe you sub is shorting and lowering the impedance briefly... just enough to cause it to draw a bunch of current?... IDK... good luck with this...

That seems difficult to test lol, if I only I knew someone with a sub that could handle the output of my sub id test it. But it can't be, the shop bench tested it with MY sub. No problems.

Also, idk if this is important, but without the aub hooked up to it it doesn't pop a fuse, although I dunno if it's actually producing the power to do so.

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

That seems difficult to test lol, if I only I knew someone with a sub that could handle the output of my sub id test it. But it can't be, the shop bench tested it with MY sub. No problems.Also, idk if this is important, but without the aub hooked up to it it doesn't pop a fuse, although I dunno if it's actually producing the power to do so.

Like I said it's a reach... this problem is perplexing... just park it in some experts driveway and hand them the keys and $200... I'd bet they'll fix it/find the problem quick... LOL!

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

I'm a at loss at this point. But....if you could find another amp, I would borrow it and see if it does the same thing. If not, you know what the issue is.

Oh and don't minf papermaker85....he's sorta the forum idiot/village idiot.