Amp still popping fuses..

I suppose theoretically it could be the head unit. But does that actually explain the fuse popping? I'm out of ideas. I just wanna enjoy my system //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
man could be any wire is bad or pinched somewhere i guess u need to test another mono amp, if u were in town i'd let u try my autotek maybe worth it for u to buy a cheap amp to test if u can't borrow 1.. i never heard of hu blowing amp fuses i mean i guess if wire touching somewhere around hu maybe, pull hu check wires and rcas (if u have ones with metal ends make sure they not on metal) other than that u may end up needing to look at every inch of power wires etc make sure jacket not cut anywhere.. and yes agm batts are better..

 
man could be any wire is bad or pinched somewhere i guess u need to test another mono amp, if u were in town i'd let u try my autotek maybe worth it for u to buy a cheap amp to test if u can't borrow 1.. i never heard of hu blowing amp fuses i mean i guess if wire touching somewhere around hu maybe, pull hu check wires and rcas (if u have ones with metal ends make sure they not on metal) other than that u may end up needing to look at every inch of power wires etc make sure jacket not cut anywhere.. and yes agm batts are better..
That's just the thing, I cant test with another amp. It only does this when I turn it up. It doesn't make sense that a lower wattage amp would do it too, and on top of that, why isn't my sax blowing fuses? I'll pull my hu and check wiring, I'll also look at my wires running to the cargo, they aren't finished anyway so it wont be hard, but if that's fine, then what...?

sounds like you must be sending a clipped signal from your source causing the amp to overdraw
I'm not, Tested. And it ran fine for a long time. No clipping.

At a car show in the capital, I talked to the head engineer of a battery charger company. We shot the shit for a little bit and we got on the subject of Optima.
He confirmed everything I'd heard about them. Quality is not what it used to be.

I'm not going to argue with someone who asks for advice and then doesn't take it. It's your money. You can buy whatever you want.
I'm not really asking for advice on the battery rn man. I already got it, whats done is done. Trying to solve the issue at hand.

Says the guy who knows NOT.I have a redtop and they are great batteries.

Redo all your connections and reset your gains..
I did that already.

 
At a car show in the capital, I talked to the head engineer of a battery charger company. We shot the shit for a little bit and we got on the subject of Optima.
He confirmed everything I'd heard about them. Quality is not what it used to be.

I'm not going to argue with someone who asks for advice and then doesn't take it. It's your money. You can buy whatever you want.
I own a redtop its a 800cca. Load tested it and it definitally could be rated higher.

Reguardless over time like anything else they get depleted. Had mine for a year if you would like ill run my system for 10 seconds xar off full output(about 500 amps) and post the results.

 
That's just the thing, I cant test with another amp. It only does this when I turn it up. It doesn't make sense that a lower wattage amp would do it too, and on top of that, why isn't my sax blowing fuses? I'll pull my hu and check wiring, I'll also look at my wires running to the cargo, they aren't finished anyway so it wont be hard, but if that's fine, then what...?


I'm not, Tested. And it ran fine for a long time. No clipping.

I'm not really asking for advice on the battery rn man. I already got it, whats done is done. Trying to solve the issue at hand.

I did that already.
You have a ampmeter?

Cheap fuses have ****** tolarences. See if you can find some good fuses.

 
I can't imagine it's the head unit, but if your voltage at the amp stays up, the amp works fine on the bench and you've confirmed your speaker wires aren't shorting what else haven't you ruled out through process of elimination.

As I said it should be difficult to open 160A worth of fusing on that amp unless you're trying to drive 1/4 ohm or something.

 
Fyi. I do automation and maintenance.
Yeah on a dumbed down level that anyone with decent intelligence could be trained to do it. The narrow mindedness of their hiring process is what gets you the job over someone who may perform better but has less "experiece"

 
You have a ampmeter?Cheap fuses have ****** tolarences. See if you can find some good fuses.
I do not, I have a voltmeter, no ammeter. Are they expensive?

I can't imagine it's the head unit, but if your voltage at the amp stays up, the amp works fine on the bench and you've confirmed your speaker wires aren't shorting what else haven't you ruled out through process of elimination.
As I said it should be difficult to open 160A worth of fusing on that amp unless you're trying to drive 1/4 ohm or something.
@1ohm. Tested with voltmeter read 1.5ohm. I mean realistically, what else could it be? I honestly do not know at this point.

160 amps is good for 1300 watts at 60% efficent..He said ONE fuse pops. So apparantly the one that pops has the lower resistance.
All 4 fuses are the same type. I bought them all in the same package same brand.

 
nm see oscope with -10db test tones was used to set gains.

Not all source material is going to be averaged at -10db especially decaf and bass heavy stuff its usually mastered right up to clipping. So if you oscoped with no clipping with -10 db tones and your playing something thats not averaged at -10, your clipping. 10db is a percieved double in loudness that equivalent to going from 100 watts to ~1100 watts in power. you could easily be clipping the **** out of that amp. and it could be that your just wearing the components down and maybe it didn't do it for a while but eventually some internal components tolerance went down from the abuse and now it cant do it anymore.

 
i would have no problem with playing most classic rock with an amp gained at -10db for subs, but playing modern bass heavy music on it is going to cause problems

 
nm see oscope with -10db test tones was used to set gains.
Not all source material is going to be averaged at -10db especially decaf and bass heavy stuff its usually mastered right up to clipping. So if you oscoped with no clipping with -10 db tones and your playing something thats not averaged at -10, your clipping. 10db is a percieved double in loudness that equivalent to going from 100 watts to ~1100 watts in power. you could easily be clipping the **** out of that amp. and it could be that your just wearing the components down and maybe it didn't do it for a while but eventually some internal components tolerance went down from the abuse and now it cant do it anymore.
I theorized that, that may be the case. I would assume that it wouldn't work at near max volume though, or at max volume at all. How could I test that I am clipping it? I've always wondered this, since it doesn't have a "clipping" indicator.

 
oscope the amp output playing what you play getting the issue
I can try, I suppose. Also, last time it popped I was playing Post Malone - Congratulations. Which is primary notes are 29hz@-11.3 and 44hz@-13.2. So still below 0db. More reasoning I dont think it is the amp though is because when my local shop bench tested it they took my sub too and wired it to 1ohm and ran it for a while they said, with no issues. It doesn't make sense that it just happens in my tahoe, I could try to hook it back up to my taurus and see if the issue persists.

 
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