Amp not putting out what it should? plz help

[los33 10+ year member]

Yeah, i mean im not 16. This isnt't my first go at car audio. Im actually pretty well versed in the hobby. But when things such as this occur and I've never had to troubleshoot it, it leaves me stuck.
Also doesn't help that im in the armpit of the US in Idaho. If i was still living in California, this issue would've been fixed long ago

Being well versed in car audio would have solved this issue long ago.

Not trying to bring you down nor insult you, just making you understand you still have lots to learn.

Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk

 

[negolien]

No offense but I have a hard time believing two different DD amps have the same issue. 10-1 say's it something you've done and you just haven't figured it out or you're just expecting too much from your stuff.

 

[FML 10+ year member]

No offense but I have a hard time believing two different DD amps have the same issue. 10-1 say's it something you've done and you just haven't figured it out or you're just expecting too much from your stuff.

So you're suggesting im wasting my, and 3everyone elses time by making up a false story, a thread 8 pages long?

And yeah if im wrong for "expecting more " then 800 watts out of an amp that should be doing 4k easily, then please, close this thread now.

Ridiculous

 

[FML 10+ year member]

Being well versed in car audio would have solved this issue long ago.
Not trying to bring you down nor insult you, just making you understand you still have lots to learn.

Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk

And actually yeah that IS semi offensive. Pretty obvious this isn't your typical problem. I exhausted every option and troubleshooting tactic i could before reaching out for help on here. But yeah thanks

 

[negolien]

So you're suggesting im wasting my, and 3everyone elses time by making up a false story, a thread 8 pages long?
And yeah if im wrong for "expecting more " then 800 watts out of an amp that should be doing 4k easily, then please, close this thread now.

Ridiculous

What I' am saying is obliviously there's something wrong and the chances of it only being the amp is ludacris. You put two different amps in and have the same issue so OBVIOUSLY you're missing something. The chances of you clamping two completely different DD amps of the same model and getting the same reading and it being the amp is retarded.

 

[los33 10+ year member]

And actually yeah that IS semi offensive. Pretty obvious this isn't your typical problem. I exhausted every option and troubleshooting tactic i could before reaching out for help on here. But yeah thanks

Answer me this..

What if its just your electrical setup or you clipped the amp straight on causing the subs or amps to blow.

It is not usual for two amps to be bad especially from what i hate to call a very reputable company.

"WE" cannot troubleshoot your setup unless we physically see your setup because it could be anything, but the most common issues to your concern have been addressed.

If it still hasnt been figured out then it is "your" car audio "knowledge" that has caused this.

Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk

 

[FML 10+ year member]

What I' am saying is obliviously there's something wrong and the chances of it only being the amp is ludacris. You put two different amps in and have the same issue so OBVIOUSLY you're missing something. The chances of you clamping two completely different DD amps of the same model and getting the same reading and it being the amp is retarded.

I agree 100%. Thats why its so odd

 

[FML 10+ year member]

Answer me this..
What if its just your electrical setup or you clipped the amp straight on causing the subs or amps to blow.

It is not usual for two amps to be bad especially from what i hate to call a very reputable company.

"WE" cannot troubleshoot your setup unless we physically see your setup because it could be anything, but the most common issues to your concern have been addressed.

If it still hasnt been figured out then it is "your" car audio "knowledge" that has caused this.

Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk

Ok my electrical is and has been fine, also iv used a scope for my gAins for the past 6 years. But since you cant get past mocking me and have nothing constructive to further my quest, take care.

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

Have you tested your RCA voltage? If not, rent/borrow/buy the tool to do so. Do you know your impedance plot? If not, rent/borrow/buy the tool to do so. Have you tested this amp in someone else's car? If not, do it.

This thread is a fucking mess. People just throwing anything at all out they can think of.

 

[timhof13 10+ year member]

I agree^^^^^ . Put the amp in another car, problem solved!!

 

[FML 10+ year member]

Have you tested your RCA voltage? If not, rent/borrow/buy the tool to do so. Do you know your impedance plot? If not, rent/borrow/buy the tool to do so. Have you tested this amp in someone else's car? If not, do it.
This thread is a fucking mess. People just throwing anything at all out they can think of.

Yup... have a whole set of goodies that go with my meter. Tested It all. As stated a few pages back too, i even went and bought a new HU and rca's just to be safe and eliminate another variable.

And trust me,im fruitlessly trying to find local help. Not a huge scene up here.

 

[FML 10+ year member]

And if a mod comes across this, go ahead and delete and or close it. This isn't going anywhere and people have to jump to a conclusion that im a moron. So its all good, thanks to those who shared some ideas and help.

If the thread does stay afloat, ill update when necessary.

 

[WhiteYota]

Here at my work, I have seen alternators put out the 14.4 but with half or less of the rated output, so in a way just because you are not seeing a drop in voltage at your amp does not mean that it could not be getting the power it needs. Granted that if there was a bad spot in your power or ground wires it should be warm/er or hot depending on how bad the connection was, resistance makes heat. The 1/0 wire should be good up to at least 350 amps (looking up the m3b its supposed to be fused at 250A), but it is possible there could be a bad connection.

On the ground side where you said it was to the frame, have you taken it apart and checked it? They do use salt and/or mag chloride on the roads up here and it could have deteriorated the connection.

 

[FML 10+ year member]

Here at my work, I have seen alternators put out the 14.4 but with half or less of the rated output, so in a way just because you are not seeing a drop in voltage at your amp does not mean that it could not be getting the power it needs. Granted that if there was a bad spot in your power or ground wires it should be warm/er or hot depending on how bad the connection was, resistance makes heat. The 1/0 wire should be good up to at least 350 amps (looking up the m3b its supposed to be fused at 250A), but it is possible there could be a bad connection. On the ground side where you said it was to the frame, have you taken it apart and checked it? They do use salt and/or mag chloride on the roads up here and it could have deteriorated the connection.

Yeah i check about every other day, since i have cable on the under chassis. Its actually double grounded. Intova ground block on the floor pan, and then those 2 leads from that block to the frame.

And i see your point. I have a couple prospects today. One, hoping a friend comes thru so i can get this amp into his car, see if it behaves any different. I also have a slightly different box thats nearing completion that ill try out as a last resort.

After further speculation, i honestly dont think the box is at fault. Its well within spec and I fully trust the opinion of the guy that built it.

Ill keep chipping away at it.

 

[WhiteYota]

Did you add a larger ground to the body from the battery? The stock ones are only a braided wire with spring clips. I would also try undoing the ground block from the body so that it only goes through the frame ground.

I had an older suburban that worked fine till I upped the amp then I started to have problems like what you are having, it just didnt seem like there was any more output.

Also I will mention that trying to check poor connections with an ohms meter may not always show a problem. There could be 0 (zero) ohms but when you try to run a few hundred amps through it, it just can not carry the power.

Forgot to mention that why I ask is that the body is isolated from the frame with rubber bushings.