Amp not putting out what it should? plz help

RF's CP amps are only CP-rated at 1-2 ohms, above that they drop. JL's CP amps are CP-rated from 1-4 ohms (or maybe 1.5-4?).
yeah they say 1500 at 4 ohms which is still higher than the 800 i'm getting. 2500 at 2 ohms is still higher than what i'm getting right now too. Might be easier than experimenting over and over with enclosures. JL only has a 1200.1, if they have something bigger i'd actually be all over that.

 
it makes me wonder if I should switch out the DC for a constant power amp like a rockford 2500.1 bdcp
Or...

Wire your DC to .25 daily and beef your electrical //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/up2something.gif.dd110ecf3ae4b76050d87598f2f8de7c.gif

 
Not gonna chance it. No set of big ballz on me.
I might wire my M4a to .25 daily after I get another alternator on, and maybe a couple more batteries. I'll have to see what rise is first.

I talked to a tech from DD, and he said that would be fine with my electrical, and a repair wouldn't be expensive if anything did go wrong.Driver boards are the main failure when wired low. The power supply is beefy enough for a 10k amp, but the driver board can't handle that much current.

You just have to keep voltage up, and it will be stable.

 
I'll definitely do it if I have a spare amp on me just in case i need to send the DC in for repair. Just looking for amps on sale atm. Worse thing is being bassless.
Ya I hear ya, I put in my old prefab box with 2 12"s in while I'm waiting for my 18"s. Totally impressed by this 3800 on what I remember what these subs used to sound like.

In this prefab boxes defense - it is a 4th order lol

 
yeah they say 1500 at 4 ohms which is still higher than the 800 i'm getting. 2500 at 2 ohms is still higher than what i'm getting right now too. Might be easier than experimenting over and over with enclosures. JL only has a 1200.1, if they have something bigger i'd actually be all over that.
Dynamic rating.

 
Gonna try and keep this short.
I just received My new DD m3b. Should be around 2500 RMS at 12v , upwards of 4k at 14.4.

Its not. I can tell it sounds like my T1000 i just replaced it with. Wont clamp anything above 800 watts.

I have no clue whats wrong. I originally thought my filters could be holding back power, iv tried every variable between the head unit and amp, no luck. Have set gain with scope and DDs method with just watching tthe clip indicator.

Now you may say maybe voltage isnt good enough. Well, i dont drop below 13.8 even on big burps. Specs are in my sig. What the fucc is going on? ???

I actually bought a different M3b off eBay and returned it for the same reason, thought it may have had some blown output transistors. Now, i either got a brand new amp with a switched out board, or im doing something seriously wrong (which is my guess, nobody can be that unlucky to buy 2 burnt amps back to back with the same issue. )

I need help. Im lost. Iv never ran into this issue in all my years. Im not a n00b, but not a pro either. I need y'alls help!
I've seen many setups with bad grounds do this, start your car, test the voltage at idle on your underhood battery, system off, then go to your amp, put the positive dmm on the amp input positive and the ground dmm on the actual ground where you are grounded, if its not lined up with under the hood, in your case will likely show far less than under the hood, you have a clog in your electrical due to a bad ground.

Something to try to help solve the issue

 
@FML;

If your ground does turn out to be good, why not wire to .25? Is your electrical solid? I didn't take the time to look back through this whole thread.

If your rise really is that crazy, .25 nominal would land you in a normal range on music
 
[quote name='adulbrich']@FML;

If your ground does turn out to be good, why not wire to .25? Is your electrical solid? I didn't take the time to look back through this whole thread.

If your rise really is that crazy, .25 nominal would land you in a normal range on music[/QUOTE]


Running two dual 4's. I cant.
 
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