Amp not putting out what it should? plz help

[los33 10+ year member]

What gauge wire size are you using for your amp and what fuse rating do you currently have the wire fused at?

Also have you attempted seeing if headunit had a sub level settimg possibly poor pre volt?

If the amp is good, but low output it is your wiring/electrical or you have a poor headunit.

Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk

 

[FML 10+ year member]

Im not real schooled in clamp tests but from what I have read and researched wouldn't low amperage be a side effect of box rise since the formula for impedence rise gets higher the lower the amperage? I could be wrong like I said not real versed in clamping but the above statement caught my eye.

Yes you divide the voltage by amperage to calculate impedance. But something's not right and I can't use the numbers alone.

I was hanging out with some dudes yesterday messing with our builds, hes got a "wall" in a Hyundai Accent, has no clue what the tuning is or anything. I ran ano scope and clamp for him and he was doing fine with minimal rise.

Im in a custom made to spec box, so i have no clue Whats wrong.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Definitely sounds like a signal problem. So without the subs plugged in, setting gains with a digital multi-meter, can you actually get proper AC voltage out of the speaker terminals? The head unit might have been clipping the signal beforehand therefore making it look nasty on the o scope

 

[FML 10+ year member]

Definitely sounds like a signal problem. So without the subs plugged in, setting gains with a digital multi-meter, can you actually get proper AC voltage out of the speaker terminals? The head unit might have been clipping the signal beforehand therefore making it look nasty on the o scope

Proper voltage out of the amps speaker terminals? Yeah, plenty. I don't use boosr or anything, and can easily top 70 volts.

Another thing that convinced me it wasn't signal was, even if you had extremely low or poor signal from the HU, thats what amp gain compensates for, no?

But as I said, head unit is worthless to me now. I mean it operates but now wont send remote voltage to my amps. Could very easily just do.some relays, but getting a brand new head unit will help narrow things down. I personally don't think it will change a damm thing, but we'll see.

Another thought was, since i was getting proper output voltage, but not amperage off speaker cable, might have something to do with the method i wired my subs. They're direct leads. Wasn't going to twist and tape, and.didn't have solder on hand so went with binding posts.

Reads fine at final impedance but maybe something wacky is occurring. No idea guys

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Proper voltage out of the amps speaker terminals? Yeah, plenty. I don't use boosr or anything, and can easily top 70 volts.
Another thing that convinced me it wasn't signal was, even if you had extremely low or poor signal from the HU, thats what amp gain compensates for, no?

But as I said, head unit is worthless to me now. I mean it operates but now wont send remote voltage to my amps. Could very easily just do.some relays, but getting a brand new head unit will help narrow things down. I personally don't think it will change a damm thing, but we'll see.

Another thought was, since i was getting proper output voltage, but not amperage off speaker cable, might have something to do with the method i wired my subs. They're direct leads. Wasn't going to twist and tape, and.didn't have solder on hand so went with binding posts.

Reads fine at final impedance but maybe something wacky is occurring. No idea guys

Amp gain doesnt compensate for weak signals, its just there to match with the head unit signal, if the signal is too weak or dirty then its GG from the get go.

A clean signal starts from the source, IF the source is clipping already then its already going to look dirty on the wave when the signal amplified. Head unit is the source of all your signal, the brain of your system.

If a new head unit does not fix it, Then try twist and tape (for experiment purposes) Or try different wiring methods. Are you using all 4 speaker terminals on the amp or just two?

Seems like nothing is wrong with the amp if you get proper AC voltage from the terminals. Its either in the sub wiring or the pre-out signal or your Oscope going wack too early.

 

[FML 10+ year member]

What gauge wire size are you using for your amp and what fuse rating do you currently have the wire fused at?
Also have you attempted seeing if headunit had a sub level settimg possibly poor pre volt?

If the amp is good, but low output it is your wiring/electrical or you have a poor headunit.

Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk

0 gauge front to back. Just have two 250 amp fuses, one off alt cable another on the main run.

And yeah iv literally tried every single setting a dozen times. Sub level all the up, down, middle. Crossovers, SSF, etc etc etc.

 

[FML 10+ year member]

k well heres the latest.

Just dropped $200 on a new head unit to find out it's not the head unit. I actually took a much harder hit, blew out my prized JL 450/4.

Remote wiring is in parallel so no amps were turning on. But whatever ill just buy the DD 4 channel iv been waiting to get.

Back to issue at hand. Now have new head unit, new RCA's, removed the second amp. I got only 3 more amps at the clamp. Still a whole whopping 800 RMS. Coooool.

So, final 2 links to rule out: my box or how im wired with my woofers and worst case scenario, i bought another bunk amp.

Opinions?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

do different wiring configurations and get proper contact. Check your oscope to see if its messed up because if the amp puts out proper ac voltage on the multi-meter then the output is fine. Dont see how its box related either if you arent getting proper current.

Just for a quick test man, ditch the oscope play music and set the gain by ear and see if you actually get any proper output, Very short quick test, doesnt need to be longer than a minute.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

k well heres the latest.
Just dropped $200 on a new head unit to find out it's not the head unit. I actually took a much harder hit, blew out my prized JL 450/4.

Remote wiring is in parallel so no amps were turning on. But whatever ill just buy the DD 4 channel iv been waiting to get.

Back to issue at hand. Now have new head unit, new RCA's, removed the second amp. I got only 3 more amps at the clamp. Still a whole whopping 800 RMS. Coooool.

So, final 2 links to rule out: my box or how im wired with my woofers and worst case scenario, i bought another bunk amp.

Opinions?

If it's the SS4b and you have one local get it now. They are running out due to the port strike. Mine supposed to be here by the first. I think you are going to like that JL more because I'm pretty sure I am. That was my favorite amp

 

[FML 10+ year member]

do different wiring configurations and get proper contact. Check your oscope to see if its messed up because if the amp puts out proper ac voltage on the multi-meter then the output is fine. Dont see how its box related either if you arent getting proper current.
Just for a quick test man, ditch the oscope play music and set the gain by ear and see if you actually get any proper output, Very short quick test, doesnt need to be longer than a minute.

I have. Iv set the gain every which way possible. And have a clip meter that's spot on accurate, gains are set fine. Then i run my clamp with my test tone and go to the predetermined volume and get my readings.

Voltage fine anywhere from 60 to 70 volts depending on which tone i use, and amperage between 9 and 13 volts.

Which, if is accurate, and the formula is still valid, my impedance is around 6 to 7 ohms. Which is preposterous.

Oh and Jeff, im using just 2 outputs on the amp. Im rockin two dual 4 ohm, so wired down to 1. Iv talked to people including Stang about my box, the box is amazing. But I'm running DD, direct leads. So im using binding posts (nut, bolt, washer, wingnut~ ). The info im gathering is.nobody has issues with posts though? So i dunno. But i suppose next step is to wrestle the woofers out and try just a twist and tape or solder maybe?

 

[FML 10+ year member]

If it's the SS4b and you have one local get it now. They are running out due to the port strike. Mine supposed to be here by the first. I think you are going to like that JL more because I'm pretty sure I am. That was my favorite amp

Thats the amp i want, no prospects yet. I need something to hold me over though. My entire truck relies on amplifiers to run any music at all. I am.extremely disappointed my JL shat out on me. The guts look fine. Someone mentioned could just be a remote mosfet and easy fix?

But im not worried about it now, it's an awesome amp and it ***** but my main concern is the big paperweight amp i just paid $800 for....

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I have. Iv set the gain every which way possible. And have a clip meter that's spot on accurate, gains are set fine. Then i run my clamp with my test tone and go to the predetermined volume and get my readings.
Voltage fine anywhere from 60 to 70 volts depending on which tone i use, and amperage between 9 and 13 volts.

Which, if is accurate, and the formula is still valid, my impedance is around 6 to 7 ohms. Which is preposterous.

Something's out of wack with your wiring then.

 

[FML 10+ year member]

Oh and Jeff, im using just 2 outputs on the amp. Im rockin two dual 4 ohm, so wired down to 1. Iv talked to people including Stang about my box, the box is amazing. But I'm running DD, direct leads. So im using binding posts (nut, bolt, washer, wingnut~ ). The info im gathering is.nobody has issues with posts though? So i dunno. But i suppose next step is to wrestle the woofers out and try just a twist and tape or solder maybe?

Something's out of wack with your wiring then.

Which wiring?

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

It's not the post. Maybe they came undone in the box. And I feel you, pulling those out of the box *****

 

[FML 10+ year member]

It's not the post. Maybe they came undone in the box. And I feel you, pulling those out of the box *****

Posts are definitely still wired. Final ohm load measures at 1.

Well, if posts wont cause all this, guess we can rule the box and.woofers out.

Well that's pretty much it. Don't know what else I can rule out