Amp for a 2ohm Alpine R (Newest one)

[Curtonamis]

Okay so after all my going back and fourth I'm getting a 12" alpine type r (1000w RMS) with a box made by Starr mountain sound. Im trying to decide what amp but my problem is I've heard that 1000w RMS is a little more than the type r can take. I was looking at a Kenwood Kac-9105D 1800-Watt Class D Mono Amplifier. And so at 2ohms I would get 900w RMS if it does rated power. Will I be fine with running that much power or will I blow my sub after a little while? This is my first system so I'm just trying to make sure I'm doing everything right the first time so I don't waste money. Trying not to spend over 200 on the Amp. I can get it for around 170 after tax and everything from amazon. I am also looking at the audiopipe 1500d (bench test indicated around 850w RMS on 2ohms) but I have heard a lot of hating on here about it so I'm not sure what to get. Very confused.

P.S.- Would I be fine with 4 gauge or should I go up to 0 gauge?

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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Well if you ever plan on going louder, i'd recommend just going for the 0 gauge OFC to save future hassles and money.

Buuut, if you really dont plan on upgrading for a long loooong time, I dont see why you can't just buy one D2 type R and run it at 1 ohm and save some costs on the amp, You can also get away with 4 gauge OFC or 0 gauge CCA

Buuuuuut if you ever plan on going louder and adding another sub or getting a stronger sub than you'd have to tell us right now so we know how to help you lol.

 

[black05alti]

everyone wants more bass after awhile.. just go ahead and get some 0 gauge ofc now. it'll save you some extra trouble in the long run. i wouldn't get the kenwood amp though..

you could run this amp at 1 ohm and set the gain conservatively.. it would also leave room for upgrades later because i've heard this amp actually puts out around 1200rms.

Precision Power PPI P1000.1 (p10001) Monoblock Phantom Car Amplifier

 

[Curtonamis]

I was actually looking at the precision power amp. And I have a tiny little mazda 3 hatch so this system should be stupid loud.. I will go with the precision power amp and 0 gauge wires most likely. Thanks guys.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Amazon.com: KnuKonceptz Kolossus: Automotive or http://www.caraudio.com/forums/audio-technix/576119-audio-technix-blowout-sale.html is the cheapest you can get. a whole amp kit with 0 gauge ofc will not be under 50$ man.

 

[SounDrive Pro Seller]

Okay so after all my going back and fourth I'm getting a 12" alpine type r (1000w RMS) with a box made by Starr mountain sound. Im trying to decide what amp but my problem is I've heard that 1000w RMS is a little more than the type r can take. I was looking at a Kenwood Kac-9105D 1800-Watt Class D Mono Amplifier. And so at 2ohms I would get 900w RMS if it does rated power. Will I be fine with running that much power or will I blow my sub after a little while? This is my first system so I'm just trying to make sure I'm doing everything right the first time so I don't waste money. Trying not to spend over 200 on the Amp. I can get it for around 170 after tax and everything from amazon. I am also looking at the audiopipe 1500d (bench test indicated around 850w RMS on 2ohms) but I have heard a lot of hating on here about it so I'm not sure what to get. Very confused.
P.S.- Would I be fine with 4 gauge or should I go up to 0 gauge?

Is the sub a dual 2 ohm I'm assuming? If so you need an amp that's 1 ohm stable.. The PPI amp suggested should work well. You could also get the AT800.1 from AudioTechnix. It puts out more power than rated. And go ahead and grab up a 0 gauge kit and maybe a big 3 kit while you're at it. AudioTechnix has them REALLY cheap right now, check out their blowout sale. Sky High car audio also has good, cheap wire available - look them up on eBay.

And there's nothing wrong with the cheaper CCA wire... Worst case scenario if you upgrade to an amp with more than 250a of fusing you can get dual inputs or a distro block/extra battery in the back and have two runs of CCA which will be about the price of OFC and carry more current more efficiently.

 

[Curtonamis]

Okay well I bought Knuconceptz because they're true 0 gauge and not that expensive

 

[Curtonamis]

Is the sub a dual 2 ohm I'm assuming? If so you need an amp that's 1 ohm stable.. The PPI amp suggested should work well. You could also get the AT800.1 from AudioTechnix. It puts out more power than rated.

Will the PPI amp blow my sub at 2ohms though? Because like I said, I heard that the type r can't really do 1000w RMS

 

[dboii313]

Will the PPI amp blow my sub at 2ohms though? Because like I said, I heard that the type r can't really do 1000w RMS

I have a pair of the new type r dual 2ohm hooked up to an alpine mrx m240 wired for a 2ohm load putting out 2400 rms and the subs are fine.

 

[Curtonamis]

I have a pair of the new type r dual 2ohm hooked up to an alpine mrx m240 wired for a 2ohm load putting out 2400 rms and the subs are fine.

Well I am also looking at the Soundqubed 1200d amp but it gives no RMS ratings on 2ohms

 

[sjv13 10+ year member]

Well I am also looking at the Soundqubed 1200d amp but it gives no RMS ratings on 2ohms

You wont be able to run your sub at 2 ohms. As described earlier in the thread, since your sub is DVC (dual voice coil) your options are either 1 ohm or 4 ohms. The new Type Rs are rated for 1000rms, so they WILL be able to take 1000rms. The older ones (like mine) are rated for 600rms. You will be fine running at 1000rms. The AudioQue (soundqubed) q-1200d would be a great amp. You just will need to set your gain with a DMM so you know you wont damage the sub. A DMM is digital mulit-meter and will allow you to set the gain knob/screw on the amp to a setting which will effectively/safely make the amp put out exactly any wattage at or below its rated power. You could run a 1 million watt amp, as long as you set the gain safely and properly. Hope this helps.

 

[Curtonamis]

Well what's going to be the difference if I set it to one ohm instead of 4? Is it better sq at 4 and louder at 1?

 

[sjv13 10+ year member]

Well what's going to be the difference if I set it to one ohm instead of 4? Is it better sq at 4 and louder at 1?

You achieve different ohm levels by the way in which you wire the sub and its voice coils to the amp. Most people with 1-ohm capable amps buy subs that allow them to run their stuff at 1 ohm. Not all amps are 1 ohm stable though, so some wire them at 2 ohms. This is for sub stages. Most car speakers are wired to the amp at 4 ohms or in some cases 8 ohms. It offers minimal difference in SQ (one that you most likely wouldnt even notice) to run at a high impedance (more ohms). Ohms are unit of the amount of resistance in an electrical circuit, so as you can imagine, the less resistance = the more free flowing power. I'd recommend you to run your subs at 1-ohm. There isnt really any difference in SQ that you would notice until you get into the Jedi level of audio.

 

[Curtonamis]

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[Curtonamis]

Okay well should I get the precision power 1000w RMS amp or should I go with the soundqubed? I don't see that the precision power amp is one ohm stable but I Haven't heard of any problems people having with it running on one ohm. And I would save around $90.

And is there a way to run less power to the sub then what the amp is pushing to the sub? Like isthere a way to run at 800w RMS instead of 1000? I know it is probably a stupid question haha