Alpine Type R 15"

[goingdef 10+ year member]

generally on a good amp it's 10 amps per 100 watts

 

[domdiv 10+ year member]

generally on a good amp it's 10 amps per 100 watts

And what if the amp has 3 30amp fuses?

That means it wont even hit 90 or the fuses would blow?

So it must be only pulling like 80-85 max?

 

[SpeedEuphoria 10+ year member]

you can prob run 4 gauge power to the amp if you keep the length as short as possible, like ~16' or less. But since its and older car you deff want to add 2 gauge Big 3(grounds and to alt). Then if/when your battery dies get a nicer one

 

[Mattd0344 10+ year member]

ur gonna try and run 2000 rms on a 105 amp alternator!? haha gl with that

Why not? With a good battery he will be fine. I've been doing it for a long time with no problems. My voltage doesn't ever drop below 12v.

 

[DarkScorpion 10+ year member]

@ DarkScorpion
So im installing this in my 92 Buick, so its really not worth all those extras right now ..

But do you think I could run 1000watts without the 0 gauge, HO Alternator or Deep cycle battery? I wanna get the most Watts out of my cars stock electrical system //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

I cant imagine that the amp would draw more than 80 amps even when it peeks, or am i wrong?

P.S. Thanks for all the information, i just dont think that my 92 Buick deserves all that special wiring and extras lol

Understood. Really, it isn't anything extra besides a new battery lol. That's usually the single big thing that can make a huge difference. But for only 1000w, you should be able to get away with stock everything and 4ga power wire and grounds. True 4ga wire is usually rated around 125A at 20ft, so it is fully capable of supplying the needed current.

When your amp peaks, it could be drawing much more than what the fusing is rated at; that's because a peak is exactly that - a peak of power for a very short amount of time. The fuses won't blow because it takes a little amount of time for the metal on the inside to actually melt. If your amp is drawing more current than your electrical can provide, it'll be evident by light dimming or with a simple volt meter. Overall, I think you'll be fine, but I would still suggest at least doing the big 3; I mean, cmon, it's just 3 wires that helps your electrical system - cheap and effective.

 

[domdiv 10+ year member]

@DarkScorpion

If i install this and experience voltage drops then should i do the big 3?

And do you know where i could buy a voltage meter? Not a standard voltage meter? but the kind used in car audio?

Does anyone know where i can buy like 10ft of 0gauge? and ring terminals for them?

for the big 3

Everywhere ive seen they want like $3 per foot ..

Whats decent pricing per foot?

 

[DarkScorpion 10+ year member]

@DarkScorpionIf i install this and experience voltage drops then should i do the big 3?

And do you know where i could buy a voltage meter? Not a standard voltage meter? but the kind used in car audio?

Does anyone know where i can buy like 10ft of 0gauge? and ring terminals for them?

for the big 3

Everywhere ive seen they want like $3 per foot ..

Whats decent pricing per foot?

Yup, I usually tell people to start off with the big 3. If that doens't work, upgrade the front battery. If that doesn't work, add a second battery to the back. Then on to a HO alternator and so on and so forth. But I doubt you'd need to go past the big 3 and possibly a better battery in the front.

Most 1/0 wire that is marketed towards Audio sells for $3.00 - $3.50 a foot. Why? Profit. Welding cable, on the other hand, is the EXACT same thing, just less flexible, while being only $2.00 - $2.50 per foot. Some people will tell you it's as stiff as a rod, but just like any other brand out there, "audio brand" or not, it varies from company to company. Check this out: Welding Supply; click on "Cable Welding," then scroll down to the 1/0 wiring. This stuff is CHEAP, is guaranteed to meet AWG standards (so you are definitely, 100% receiving true 1/0ga wire), and is still fairly flexible - definitely flexible enough for the big 3, for a run from your battery in the front to the amp in the back, and for grounding your amp. You get a discount when you buy 25+ and 50+ ft. of cable, so if you wanted to pick up some for the big 3 as well as for later in case you wanted to upgrade, now would be a good time to stock up just in case. But it's still cheaper either way (usually, 10-13ft. is sufficient to do the big 3). You can also buy cable lugs from them; cable lugs are usually sufficient for the big 3 since you don't have any pre-sized terminals or anything to worry about.

These wiring kits are very popular as well, but too pricey if you're using the wire just for the Big 3.

Also, check out Darvex for all your connectors, volt meters, and installation accessories in general. They are a very popular and reputable site, especially here on the forums, so don't fret purchasing from them.

 

[Linkz 10+ year member]

another good place for cheap cable is the cableyard

 

[SpeedEuphoria 10+ year member]

Advance Auto parts in my town sells 2 gauge for $1.88/ft and copper lugs that need to be soldered on, well torched/stove works

 

[domdiv 10+ year member]

@ DarkScorpion

Thanks alot dude you go above and beyond to answer the questions you are asked ..

You have been a great help, ill surely be asking you more questions in the future! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

@ Linkz

Thanks for that website ill check them out

@ SpeedEuphoria

Ill have to go check them out tomorrow seeing as its 11pm here and they are closed lol