Advice on large(ish) scale project

cumsock991

CarAudio.com Newbie
im rather inexperienced in the field of car audio but i do everything myself

i have some ambitious plans for my car, as i have some money laying around and im tired of my lone skar subs.

i already have 0 gauge big 3 done, along with 1/0 power cable and a 180amp fuze along with a pdb and pgb

im planning on buying a high output alternator, but im only finding ones around 180amps, i found one for 600$ thats 320amps, is that reasonable or needed?

i want to run dual 800rms 12's in the trunk and 800rms 10s on rear seat deck, into a 2 channel 4000 rms amp

6.5s and tweeters on front doors 150rms, 8's on rear doors 300rms, both into a 4 channel 1000rms amp

i know ill need a dsp, along with probably more reliable pdb and pgb and an external battery

im not being ignorant in the aspect of sound deadening or fiberglassing, im more in the workshopping phase of this, just to see if its possible, and what i need to do, sort of getting a shopping list down, and an installation guide

the alternators im finding are like 300$ for 180amp or 600$ for 320amp, could a 180amp alternator plus an external battery be sufficient? im pretty uneducated in this aspect


is this overkill? im trying to save as much money as possible without cutting corners

the 2 800rms 12's in the trunk
the 2 800rms 10's on rear seat deck
the 2 150rms 6.5s on front doors
the 2 300rms 8's on rear doors
the dsp
additional battery?
alternator 320amp?
4000rms dual channel amp
1000 rms 4 channel amp
 
fam what is that gif. its a civic, i want full range, i like edm, hardcore shit, need full range.
It's a misconception that you need different size subwoofers for different ranges. Besides the complexity of needing different amplifiers and different DSP channels to try to tune the different pairs, it's only going to cause phasing issues and you'll spend time and money being disappointed with the end result without A LOT of tuning effort.

I'm guessing you're trying to use the 10's as midbass drivers instead of putting the midbass up in the doors or kicks where it belongs. If you're looking for dedicated midbass drivers (dedicated amp channels and dedicated DSP) it has been done before, usually with 8" or 10" midbass drivers (not subwoofers). This is usually done when you have large, low frequency subwoofers, not typical 12's. A pair of typical 12's can play midbass just fine. For example, if you were using the Dayton Audio Ultimax for sub duty, and wanted dedicated midbass drivers, that can make sense since the Ultimax rolls off pretty quickly and they need a lot of midbass to pair well. People typically turn to a pro audio midbass driver in 8" or 10" size in these applications. If you're looking for a good pair of pro audio midbass, B&C is top tier.

A typical car audio system has 3 or 4 speaker ranges. Tweeter, Woofer, Subwoofer or Tweeter, Midrange, Midbass, Subwoofer. You need to consider frequency range you want each driver to play. Tweeters want to be above 3kHz and subwoofers want to be below 80Hz, typically. What happens between 80Hz - 3kHz varies wildly. When running high-output midbass drivers, the sub crossover point can drop below 60Hz. Where the midbass and midrange transition happens varies wildly in each build and largely depends on the capability of the midrange.

If you'd like to see what a multiple sub stage setup looks like when tuned, this video series explains how to setup two subwoofer stages (essentially a 5-way system):
 
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cumsock991

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