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Advice on large(ish) scale project
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<blockquote data-quote="keep_hope_alive" data-source="post: 8914311" data-attributes="member: 576029"><p>It's a misconception that you need different size subwoofers for different ranges. Besides the complexity of needing different amplifiers and different DSP channels to try to tune the different pairs, it's only going to cause phasing issues and you'll spend time and money being disappointed with the end result without A LOT of tuning effort.</p><p></p><p>I'm guessing you're trying to use the 10's as midbass drivers instead of putting the midbass up in the doors or kicks where it belongs. If you're looking for dedicated midbass drivers (dedicated amp channels and dedicated DSP) it has been done before, usually with 8" or 10" midbass drivers (not subwoofers). This is usually done when you have large, low frequency subwoofers, not typical 12's. A pair of typical 12's can play midbass just fine. For example, if you were using the Dayton Audio Ultimax for sub duty, and wanted dedicated midbass drivers, that can make sense since the Ultimax rolls off pretty quickly and they need a lot of midbass to pair well. People typically turn to a pro audio midbass driver in 8" or 10" size in these applications. If you're looking for a good pair of pro audio midbass, B&C is top tier. </p><p></p><p>A typical car audio system has 3 or 4 speaker ranges. Tweeter, Woofer, Subwoofer or Tweeter, Midrange, Midbass, Subwoofer. You need to consider frequency range you want each driver to play. Tweeters want to be above 3kHz and subwoofers want to be below 80Hz, typically. What happens between 80Hz - 3kHz varies wildly. When running high-output midbass drivers, the sub crossover point can drop below 60Hz. Where the midbass and midrange transition happens varies wildly in each build and largely depends on the capability of the midrange. </p><p></p><p>If you'd like to see what a multiple sub stage setup looks like when tuned, this video series explains how to setup two subwoofer stages (essentially a 5-way system): [MEDIA=youtube]BCUaiL3dpJs[/MEDIA]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="keep_hope_alive, post: 8914311, member: 576029"] It's a misconception that you need different size subwoofers for different ranges. Besides the complexity of needing different amplifiers and different DSP channels to try to tune the different pairs, it's only going to cause phasing issues and you'll spend time and money being disappointed with the end result without A LOT of tuning effort. I'm guessing you're trying to use the 10's as midbass drivers instead of putting the midbass up in the doors or kicks where it belongs. If you're looking for dedicated midbass drivers (dedicated amp channels and dedicated DSP) it has been done before, usually with 8" or 10" midbass drivers (not subwoofers). This is usually done when you have large, low frequency subwoofers, not typical 12's. A pair of typical 12's can play midbass just fine. For example, if you were using the Dayton Audio Ultimax for sub duty, and wanted dedicated midbass drivers, that can make sense since the Ultimax rolls off pretty quickly and they need a lot of midbass to pair well. People typically turn to a pro audio midbass driver in 8" or 10" size in these applications. If you're looking for a good pair of pro audio midbass, B&C is top tier. A typical car audio system has 3 or 4 speaker ranges. Tweeter, Woofer, Subwoofer or Tweeter, Midrange, Midbass, Subwoofer. You need to consider frequency range you want each driver to play. Tweeters want to be above 3kHz and subwoofers want to be below 80Hz, typically. What happens between 80Hz - 3kHz varies wildly. When running high-output midbass drivers, the sub crossover point can drop below 60Hz. Where the midbass and midrange transition happens varies wildly in each build and largely depends on the capability of the midrange. If you'd like to see what a multiple sub stage setup looks like when tuned, this video series explains how to setup two subwoofer stages (essentially a 5-way system): [MEDIA=youtube]BCUaiL3dpJs[/MEDIA] [/QUOTE]
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