Adding Bass to factory Systems - I'm a noob

[DJin TX]

...how would you expect 2 x 8’s to perform compared to 2 x 10’s? Assume same manufacturer and speaker series.

Any thoughts on this? Is it worlds of difference? Are the 8’s 50% of the output, or 75%? Just a ballpark impression would be helpful. Also assume both ported boxes.

 

[DJin TX]

Even if you add just a subwoofer and mono block you will still need a good loc or dsp. So either 100-125 dollars for a quality loc or 150 for the dsp if you want it for a future upgrade for the door speakers and what not.

You can get a 2 or 4 channel amplifiers like Taramps for 100 bucks and a SFB 1K for 190 or if you want Taramps they make a lower cost monoblock as well for 100-150 for your subwoofer. Plus you have to figure in a wiring kit as well, distribution block and rca cables.

If you do just a subwoofer you will need that loc or dsp, plus wiring kit, rca cables, monoblock amplifier and I would do a distribution block just for a future upgrade so it is there if you want it. Along with having a box built, you can contact buck for the design once you choose a subwoofer or he can help you there. If you want to then take that design to the local shop and have them build it for you since you said you don't want to. Don't buy some prefab junk as it won't be tuned right for the music you listen to or the subwoofer as it is just a general kind all purpose and they are never set at the hz they claim if they say 35 figure closer to 40hz or so.

Question on DSPs, in my scenario of adding an amp subs and dsp while still using the factory head unit and speakers, does the DSP output to the factory speakers as well, or just the subs?

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

does the DSP output to the factory speakers as well, or just the subs?

Output only to the amp. As for the 8" sub's sound, you can make them sound like bigger speakers. Tradeoff is that you need a bigger box AND bigger power, or more subs. An idiom amongst audio circles (and motorheads) is, "There is no replacement for displacement". An 8" sub has a rough area of 50.25 cu.in., while a 10" sub around 78.5 cu.in. That is 28.25 cu.in. of more cone area for air movement. So an 8" has to move more to accomplish the same output of a 10".

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

cu.in

Oops. I meant square inches.

 

[DJin TX]

Output only to the amp. As for the 8" sub's sound, you can make them sound like bigger speakers. Tradeoff is that you need a bigger box AND bigger power, or more subs. An idiom amongst audio circles (and motorheads) is, "There is no replacement for displacement". An 8" sub has a rough area of 50.25 cu.in., while a 10" sub around 78.5 cu.in. That is 28.25 cu.in. of more cone area for air movement. So an 8" has to move more to accomplish the same output of a 10".

This is very helpful, definitely will stick with 10’s if space permits. Now CDa question about subwoofer boxes. For under the rear seat of a truck, is it better to have one long box containing both subs, or a smaller singular box for each sub?

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

For under the rear seat of a truck, is it better to have one long box containing both subs, or a smaller singular box for each sub?

I have never pondered this before... A single box uses less material, is easier to build, easier to design, has more room than two boxes of similar external dimension, will use only 1 port, and will weigh less. All considered, a lower fabrication cost as well.

 

[DJin TX]

I have never pondered this before... A single box uses less material, is easier to build, easier to design, has more room than two boxes of similar external dimension, will use only 1 port, and will weigh less. All considered, a lower fabrication cost as well.

My thinking for considering 2 smaller boxes instead of one long one is that they would be more portable. Example: if I were to take the truck on a road trip with the family, I could more easily take the two smaller boxes out and leave them at home so I have access to underseat storage for the trip. If instead I have one long box that extends the length of the seat (similar to those JL audio stealth boxes) they would be hard to remove.

On a related note regarding sub boxes, can anyone recommend a good Car Audio shop in Houston TX that builds quality sub boxes tailored to the characteristics of specific subwoofers that won’t break the bank? I don’t want to learn the hard way that they don’t know what they’re doing.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

they would be more portable.

In that case, it makes more sense to split them. Soundwise they should sound the same.

 

[DJin TX]

Ok for my 100th question, fast-forward 1 year... I have the subs amp and dsp installed and I want to take it up a notch. At that point, is the obvious choice to add a 4 channel amp along with a pair of 6.5 inch coaxials and a pair of 1 inch tweeters? Or, since the coaxials would have built in tweeters, would just the coaxials do the job?