Adding amp and speakers to stock HU.

[v1ks_]

+1 for Kingston. I have a Kingston DT R3.0 G2, that's enclosed in rubber and is shock and waterproof. Has even seen a whole washing machine cycle, when I forgot it in my jeans pocket. Sadly, it seems they no longer manufacture these.

Here another part idea, part question.

What would happen if the stock head unit was wired to amp via high level inputs and in order to correct the stock HU equalizer that's applied to match factory speakers, an equalizer in the source is used (in my case Galaxy S7) to cancel out stock HU equalization and achieve a flat(-ter) signal? Yeah, I know it sounds like crazy talk...

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Hmm....not sure that's even possible Jeff may know...

I'll have to look into a USB...you guys been very helpful. Wait...is this your thread or mine? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 

[v1ks_]

Hey, happy to help while being helped.

In theory, if your HU has that 24bit DAC and supports FLAC, ALAC, APE, or some other form of lossless audio (at work/a little lazy to Google search your HU), you could, in theory, even rip SACD's or vinyl and get even better SQ than your CDs from that USB connection. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

+1 for Kingston. I have a Kingston DT R3.0 G2, that's enclosed in rubber and is shock and waterproof. Has even seen a whole washing machine cycle, when I forgot it in my jeans pocket. Sadly, it seems they no longer manufacture these.
Here another part idea, part question.

What would happen if the stock head unit was wired to amp via high level inputs and in order to correct the stock HU equalizer that's applied to match factory speakers, an equalizer in the source is used (in my case Galaxy S7) to cancel out stock HU equalization and achieve a flat(-ter) signal? Yeah, I know it sounds like crazy talk...

doesnt work that way. You cant get a flat signal nor can you get any actual audio fidelity through high level inputs straight to the amp. Its still subjected to the headunit's horrible 12-16 bit dacs. You wont have any bass either no matter how much you play with the EQ, all you will do is distort and dirty the signal which can lead to blown equipment, otherwise you'll just have horrible weak sound at all times. High level inputs to an amp is not anywhere close to a good clean signal.

All your crazy ideas, i've been there done that or fixed a lot of people's ghetto rigged setup thats done the same. All are horrible results. Only way for anywhere close to decent sound is the single din head unit idea.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Hey, happy to help while being helped.In theory, if your HU has that 24bit DAC and supports FLAC, ALAC, APE, or some other form of lossless audio (at work/a little lazy to Google search your HU), you could, in theory, even rip SACD's or vinyl and get even better SQ than your CDs from that USB connection. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

That's weird...it has 24 bit DA Converter..?!

Clarion U.S.A. | CZ702

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

That's weird...it has 24 bit DA Converter..?!
Clarion U.S.A. | CZ702

yeah your clarion has a 24 bit dac. Most of anything half decent has a 24 bit dac nowadays, its the minimum standard.

 

[v1ks_]

Your thoughts on MVH-X580BT and UTE-92BT?

EDIT: Add in X5900BT to the list.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

yeah your clarion has a 24 bit dac. Most of anything half decent has a 24 bit dac nowadays, its the minimum standard.

Either I did know and just forgot or didn't. Either way, that's a +. I knew this HU had a lot of features.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

we get a lot of people with cheap and expensive line out convertors coming on here with problems or having poor sound/bass performance all the time and the root cause is the line out convertor with stock head unit combo.
Stock head units have a built in EQ curve and agressive high pass filter to protect the speakers from blowing along with trying to make them sound better with the built in EQ since the Stock speakers are crappy. With a line out convertor, you subject ALL your aftermarket equipment to that horrible factory tuning.

i did a install recently and ended up bypassing his radio and using his phone it was so bad..

 

[v1ks_]

Thanks once more for the help guys.

One more question regarding aftermarket headunits.

I've looked around and checked some prices (have a friend working in an online store) and here's pretty much what I have available/can afford:

- Alpine CDA-192R (100 euros)

- Pioneer DEH-X5900BT (115 euros)

- Kenwood KDC-X5100BT (120 euros)

Now, all three have 24bit DACs, time delay, 3x RCA and 13 band EQ. However, only Kenwood has 4V pre-out. Alpine has 2V and I can't find info about the Pioneer on their own website. I'll assume it's 2V, like the Alpine.

The headunit would be paired with a Pioneer D8604, which has already been bought, if that matters.

Does anyone have recommendation? Is 2V on pre-out an absolute deal-breaker?

 

[nativefx]

I'm kind of in the same boat as far as wanting to keep my stock hu and add speakers, amp and subs. I saw the Audison Bit 10 was recommended and I will look into that, but I was recommended to use the JL Audio Fix 86 from a guy I bought audio equipment from in the past. Can anyone tell me the difference between the 2 and give me input as to which would be better? This is going into my commuter car which is a Camry. I didn't want to put to much money into it, but I also wasn't sure I would like how a double din would look while also having the stock buttons around it and not function.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Thanks once more for the help guys.One more question regarding aftermarket headunits.

I've looked around and checked some prices (have a friend working in an online store) and here's pretty much what I have available/can afford:

- Alpine CDA-192R (100 euros)

- Pioneer DEH-X5900BT (115 euros)

- Kenwood KDC-X5100BT (120 euros)

Now, all three have 24bit DACs, time delay, 3x RCA and 13 band EQ. However, only Kenwood has 4V pre-out. Alpine has 2V and I can't find info about the Pioneer on their own website. I'll assume it's 2V, like the Alpine.

The headunit would be paired with a Pioneer D8604, which has already been bought, if that matters.

Does anyone have recommendation? Is 2V on pre-out an absolute deal-breaker?

that alpine is an absolute no, thats only a 3 band EQ.

The kenwood is good if you just want to keep things simple just using components or coaxials and do a regular rear and front speaker setup.

If you plan on doing an active network setup with only front mids and tweeters then go pioneer.

 

[v1ks_]

that alpine is an absolute no, thats only a 3 band EQ.
The kenwood is good if you just want to keep things simple just using components or coaxials and do a regular rear and front speaker setup.

If you plan on doing an active network setup with only front mids and tweeters then go pioneer.

Thanks, Jeff!

You're right, I had models mixed up completely. Instead of 192R, that should've been 193BT, but that one is nowhere near 100 euros.

So it's down to KDC-X5100BT and DEH-X5900XT.

While active network setup sounds all fancy and nice, I was planning for something more simple, like I said, I already have DSK165.3 for front (woofer+tweeter+crossover) and am still debating, weather to initially add a sub in the trunk and later swap out stock 6x9" in rear deck, or start by swapping out rear deck 6x9" and add a sub later.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Thanks, Jeff!You're right, I had models mixed up completely. Instead of 192R, that should've been 193BT, but that one is nowhere near 100 euros.

So it's down to KDC-X5100BT and DEH-X5900XT.

While active network setup sounds all fancy and nice, I was planning for something more simple, like I said, I already have DSK165.3 for front (woofer+tweeter+crossover) and am still debating, weather to initially add a sub in the trunk and later swap out stock 6x9" in rear deck, or start by swapping out rear deck 6x9" and add a sub later.

6x9 last. kenwood is the ideal choice then,

 

[v1ks_]

6x9 last. kenwood is the ideal choice then,

Purely out of curiousity. Was the Pioneer a better bet for a network setup, because of the better built in crossover? Pioneer had 6th order on subwoofer channel and 4th order on remaining channels, while Kenwood managed only 4th and 2nd respectively.

Got a few more questions now. Am I right that it's better to use crossover on the HU, instead of HPF/LPF on the amp?

Is there any "rules of thumb" when it comes to power of sub relative to the power on front components? In other words, how much W of sub power, for every W of mid/tweeter power.

Last but not least... does anyone know a good write-up for a noob in car audio, that isn't exactly born yesterday? Most stuff I come across is either a) written for complete idiots, that need to taught was sound is or b) to specific or advanced. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Cheers!