Acoustic Elegance AV12-X D2!

John, you have yet to come up with any explaination of why such a 'lesser' driver with 1/3 the power can do what yours wasn't doing. In the same position, in the same vehicle.
Once again you prove my point that no matter what I have stated you ignore it. Re-read the third paragraph in post #25 above. It's quite simple. Your sub to main stage is a crossover point, the same as any other crossover point in any speaker. For it to sound right and have a properly summed response the phase needs to be right.

Then other way to test for this is to actually listen for the null. Flip the polarity of the woofer and adjust until the bass really disappears at the xover point. Then flip polarity back. Sometimes it is easier to listen for the most cancellation than the most summation.

Here is an example of a 3way system. You can see the yellow curve is quite flat response with drivers all in phase. When the polarity of the mid is flipped 180degrees you have 2 very deep nulls at the crossover points. This shows that the phase was correct when the mid is wired with normal polarity.

TD12S-3way.PNG


John

 
What about cone breakup and nodes of the cone deflecting at resonance //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif..inductance is cool and all...
Just because a Mercury 2.5 EFI drag boat engine will turn 14,000rpm during a 1/4 mile pass doesn't mean it should do that all the time right?
If you take a look at the impedance curve you can see the 2 breakups. The dust has a breakup at almost exactly 1KHz and is quite minor in magnitude. The cone on the 12" has a breakup about 2.4KHz which is more significant. Even if crossing at only 12dB as high as 100hz you'd be over 40dB down by the time you got to the first minor breakup from the dustcap and over 50dB down by the cone breakup. For any subwoofer application the breakup is not even remotely an issue.

If you plan to use the drivers up to 500hz or so in a 3way home speaker then you'd need to take a little more care. You'd want to have a 24dB slope to keep these breakups suppressed. These drivers actually will reproduce the lower vocal region as well or better than most good midrange drivers. I doubt anyone on this forum needs to worry about it though. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

John

 
What about cone breakup and nodes of the cone deflecting at resonance //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif..inductance is cool and all...
Just because a Mercury 2.5 EFI drag boat engine will turn 14,000rpm during a 1/4 mile pass doesn't mean it should do that all the time right?
Point taken, however when you look at the measure response of the driver in question, IMO the most significant break up with just over 2kHz, that is a good 4.5 octaves above where I would cross over at, so really it isn't an issue.

 
Anyone who says this driver has no output past 60hz is wrong, it has more output than the Fi Q hands down in that area, the quality of this driver is amazing.

 
If you take a look at the impedance curve you can see the 2 breakups. The dust has a breakup at almost exactly 1KHz and is quite minor in magnitude. The cone on the 12" has a breakup about 2.4KHz which is more significant. Even if crossing at only 12dB as high as 100hz you'd be over 40dB down by the time you got to the first minor breakup from the dustcap and over 50dB down by the cone breakup. For any subwoofer application the breakup is not even remotely an issue.
If you plan to use the drivers up to 500hz or so in a 3way home speaker then you'd need to take a little more care. You'd want to have a 24dB slope to keep these breakups suppressed. These drivers actually will reproduce the lower vocal region as well or better than most good midrange drivers. I doubt anyone on this forum needs to worry about it though. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

John
Graphs and everything is great...theory is great as well.

But what does it actually sound like at 500Hz..1000Hz etc. In a real world either Home or Car scenario?

There is something about something being that big re-producing those frequencies that simply do not sound 'right' to the ear. Especially with aluminum...which is why you see all of the great pro sound people using ultra light paper cones and edge wound coils with 11" diameter motors.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Edit:

Also I am not talking about impedance breakups. I'm talking about actually putting the cone, on a shaker table, mounting accelerometers on it, exciting it from 1-4000Hz and recording the data and running through a dac program like MATLAB. This actually tells you where the cone has acoustic excitation and where it is dead. With nothing else coming into play, just the cone itself. Mat lab and accelerometer graphing gives you a great deal of information that is very useful...if you know how to use it. I did some stuff for Boeing a while back on some panel vibration stuff..very cool...learned a great deal about aluminum //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Modeling doesn't mean ****. Show me in-car response with an RTA.

And the silicone smeared on the cone is a nice touch //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

Subs playing above 100hz = fail. It starts getting directional, and I don't wanna hear my subs behind me.

Nice sub in theory.

 
Anyone who says this driver has no output past 60hz is wrong, it has more output than the Fi Q hands down in that area, the quality of this driver is amazing.
How could something with less linear excursion have more output in a lower octave where it takes 4 times as much displacement to be within the same output of say a nominal 100dBa?

It's very probably that a single spider more efficient floppy suspension would appear to have 'more output' on the bottom end because it is much easier to move on a per watt basis. But there are costs to this...one is durability and idiot factor of not knowing what a subsonic filter is on something that has a long coil and capable of a lot of excursion.

But laws of physics say otherwise...it could work better in a given scenario. Which is very probable. Outside of that something that moves more on a lower frequency will always have more output in a A vs. B swap, all things constant.

 
Dont ask me, all i know is that this sub fills in gaps that previous subs, Including Fi Q 12" left with more to be desired.

Im not saying its a huge difference but it is definitely noticeable.

 
Graphs and everything is great...theory is great as well.
But what does it actually sound like at 500Hz..1000Hz etc. In a real world either Home or Car scenario?
Our drivers are known specifically for their exceptional high frequency response. As I'm sure you know, inductance and change in Le vs excursion has a huge impact that becomes more significant the higher you go in frequency. All of our woofers have a full copper sleeve on the pole that greatly reduces distortion and keeps Le nearly perfectly linear throughout the excursion of the driver. This is the same that is done in all of our TD drivers which have proven over and over to be likely the lowest distortion drivers available at any cost within their intended usage. Take a look at the distortion measurements done by augerpro on AVS and DIYaudio.com of the TD12M as well as the Le(x) measurements. Then look at all the other drivers. You will see that no other drivers come close in terms of the Le linearity and low non-linear distortion of the higher orders which come from the motor.

http://sites.google.com/site/drivervault/driver-measurements/tang-band-75-1558se/ae-speakers-td12m

The AV woofers have the same characteristics as the motors are nearly the same, only with a larger 2.5" diameter coil. Since you mentioned home environment specifically, Jim Salk is using a similar custom woofer in the new speaker that is temporarily being called the HT4 or Beast and is searching for a new name.

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=1gmoda4bk8qj9aa1rr6umoac4ikq2dec&topic=67978.0

He also replaced the 10" driver formerly used in his HT3's with one we are doing for him. Our TD12 is used in his Archos speaker. Jeff Bagby had done extensive testing on the TD12 vs all other possible candidates. His credentials exceed mine. You can see his comments on the driver here:

http://www.htguide.com/forum/showpost.php4?p=398362&postcount=44

All of the testing and results are not my own, but those of others who are qualified to do the testing. I have not published this data myself as others would question it. I am very happy to see that others have finally published third party information validating our own. I don't think there is any question about the high frequency ability of our drivers.

There is something about something being that big re-producing those frequencies that simply do not sound 'right' to the ear. Especially with aluminum...which is why you see all of the great pro sound people using ultra light paper cones and edge wound coils with 11" diameter motors.
I think you may have a misunderstanding of how some things work. The size of the driver or mass of the cone has nothing to do with it's ability to reproduce higher frequencies. The only issue you get into with larger drivers is that as you go up in frequency you get more directional sound. Quite simply to play high in frequency and sound good you need linear inductance. Without it, the response will be different on the inner and outer strokes. This creates high amounts of distortion. High frequency response is also about efficiency. The higher the efficiency, the less power for a given SPL, the less flux modulation, the less thermal issues, the lower the distortion. This means that a larger driver can reproduce the same frequencies cleaner as it has to move less to get that SPL and is typically more efficient. Obviously there are exceptions as a larger driver can be less efficient than a smaller one in cases.

In general though, the "fastest" drivers or the ones with the quickest transient response are the ones with lowest inductance. Dan Wiggins posted this paper way back now that explained it quite well.

http://stereointegrity.com/docs/WooferSpeed.pdf

The Lambda paper entitled "Bl/MMS=nonsense" also talks about the "speed" of woofers and the need for low inductance to reproduce "fast" signals.

http://web.archive.org/web/20010810141852/lambdacoustics.com/library/whitepapers/bl_mms.htm

The reason the big pro companies use light cones is simply for efficiency not high end extension. On the big tours it gets very expensive to bring in more power. You pay union people to setup equipment at the large venues and are charged according to the amount of power supplied. On a big tour like the rolling stones, a difference of 2dB in efficiency on the subwoofers could cost as much at $10,000 more to setup with the union workers.

Also I am not talking about impedance breakups. I'm talking about actually putting the cone, on a shaker table, mounting accelerometers on it, exciting it from 1-4000Hz and recording the data and running through a dac program like MATLAB. This actually tells you where the cone has acoustic excitation and where it is dead. With nothing else coming into play, just the cone itself. Mat lab and accelerometer graphing gives you a great deal of information that is very useful...if you know how to use it. I did some stuff for Boeing a while back on some panel vibration stuff..very cool...learned a great deal about aluminum //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
I agree you can get a lot of good data that way on the cone itself. When you put that same cone in a woofer though, things change. If we hang a cone from a string and hit it with a hammer it can ring like a cymbal. However, once the ID of the cone is attached to a coil, a bead glue is applied to attach the dustcap, and the santoprene surround is attached, things greatly change. The santoprene as well as the various glue beads give a large amount of damping to any resonance of the cone. Any accelerometer measurements would need to be done with the cone in the full driver or they wouldn't be valid.

Also any resonance excited will show up in the impedance curve. You can verify what is going on by looking at a CSD plot of the driver and viewing the decay time at those resonance points. You can also get a stroboscope to actually view what is happening at those resonances. There are a couple videos on the LinearX page here that show both a spider resonance and cone resonance issue.

http://www.linearx.com/products/accessories/LS310/LS310_01.htm

John

 
Modeling doesn't mean ****. Show me in-car response with an RTA.
And the silicone smeared on the cone is a nice touch //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

Subs playing above 100hz = fail. It starts getting directional, and I don't wanna hear my subs behind me.

Nice sub in theory.
The curves I posted are measured curves of the driver in an open test baffle. I can easily do in car measurements if you tell me which type of vehicle and enclosure you'd like measurements of. RTA isn't really sufficient though as even a 1/12th octave RTA isn't all that telling. You can have extremely deep, but narrow dips that are masked by an RTA. Unsmoothed FFT measurements are much more sufficient as they don't have this effect. This is what was done in the in-car response of Bose301's MAGV4 that I had posted.

The "silicone smeared on the cone" is a high temperature silicone good to about 500F with a very high dielectric strength. It is painted on to insulate the lead wires from ever coming in contact with the bottom of the conductive aluminum cone. We had considered using felt like most everyone else does to eliminate lead wire tap, or a silicone rubber pad attached with silicone adhesive. It turned out that the adhesive was clearly sufficient as an insulator without the silicone foam ever being attached. It also adds some further damping to the cone resonance and brings down the magnitude of the 2.4K breakup by a good 5-6dB.

Yes, in a car I wouldn't recommend over 100hz. In most cases for an SQ system where you don't need huge levels from your midbass, I'd cross over in the 50-60hz region. We do the same in most home theater setups as long as the main LCR can handle the midbass duty appropriately.

John

 
Played the sub all day yesterday, and for a good hour today, She still sounds great //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
The "silicone smeared on the cone" is a high temperature silicone good to about 500F with a very high dielectric strength. It is painted on to insulate the lead wires from ever coming in contact with the bottom of the conductive aluminum cone. We had considered using felt like most everyone else does to eliminate lead wire tap, or a silicone rubber pad attached with silicone adhesive. It turned out that the adhesive was clearly sufficient as an insulator without the silicone foam ever being attached. It also adds some further damping to the cone resonance and brings down the magnitude of the 2.4K breakup by a good 5-6dB.
So you are trying to keep mass low...but then you say the aluminum is the best material to use...but then one brings up the frequency nodes of the cone..and then you say it adds damping for cone resonances (that otherwise with paper wouldn't be there in the first place)

Wise man would have gotten teflon tubing and encapsulated the tinsel leads if conductivity was an issue...instead of gooping the cone up.

But, carry on.

 
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probably got the gain turned waaay up. Also remember this is just a 2 ohm stable amp. Make sure your subs are wired for a 2 ohm load on the amp...
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