A little Soundsplinter and Fi sub comparison

[JonJT 10+ year member]

I've been doing a little research and modeling with Unibox so that I can decide which sub I want to purchase. I have compaired 6 different woofers in ported enclosures with varing numbers of woofers.

If I've made any mistakes in my calculations, please let me know! Thanks!

First, here is the box data for each alignment:

Next we have all the response graphs for each alignment

2x Soundsplinter RL-i10 d4

Frequency Response

Cone Excursion

Port Air Speed

Speaker Impedance

Soundsplinter RL-p12 d2

Frequency Response

Cone Excursion

Port Air Speed

Speaker Impedance

Click to read more...

 

[JonJT 10+ year member]

Soundsplinter RL-p15 d2

Frequency Response

Cone Excursion

Port Air Speed

Speaker Impedance

2x Fi Q10 d1

Frequency Response

Cone Excursion

Port Air Speed

Speaker Impedance

 

[JonJT 10+ year member]

Fi Q12 d2

Frequency Response

Cone Excursion

Port Air Speed

Speaker Impedance

Fi Q15 d2

Frequency Response

Cone Excursion

Port Air Speed

Speaker Impedance

I'm really liking the combination of small size, small port area, short port length and high output of the dual Soundsplinter FL-i10 d4's. They are a little more costly than the other woofers, but I think I'll gladly pay more for the extra trunk space.

Hopefully this helps someone along with me!

JonJT

 

[jmanpc 5,000+ posts]

the downfall is.... none of that will be consistent in your car.

 

[JonJT 10+ year member]

Obviously, but the fact that everyones car is different makes your point moot. I'm going to apply a transfer function to the SPL graphs for the 2 Soundsplinter 10s and see how it works out in my car only.

This is JUST a starting point for anyone who wants to use it. I never said I was posting EXACT response curves in car at all.

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

And...

This means little to nothing in this thing called...

REAL LIFE.

Ever heard of it?

nG

 

[jmanpc 5,000+ posts]

Obviously, but the fact that everyones car is different makes your point moot. I'm going to apply a transfer function to the SPL graphs for the 2 Soundsplinter 10s and see how it works out in my car only.
This is JUST a starting point for anyone who wants to use it. I never said I was posting EXACT response curves in car at all.

No, it makes my point all the more important. All those pretty graphs mean jack outside an anechoic chamber.

 

[CRAZYCORNUTS18 10+ year member]

No, it makes my point all the more important. All those pretty graphs mean jack outside an anechoic chamber.

pwnt

 

[JonJT 10+ year member]

Good god. The transfer function that is specific to each car will not change no matter what alignment, sub or box you use. Its a scalar that is applied to whatever sub you decide to put in your car.

The anechoic response of any alignment is a good place to start looking for your perfect setup. Once you have them, you can apply said transfer function to your anechoic response and get a somewhat realistic frequency plot for your in car subwoofer.

NOT ONCE did I ever say these graphs were representative of how a sub would perform in car. EVER! These graphs are just a starting point from where a person can apply conditions specific to their application. Again, it is just a starting point comparing different subs.

Edit: This how I have been instructed to go about designing an alignment buy some people much smarter than myself. I am not providing a thread with the end results of any of these alignments in car.

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

I'd run a sim with the 15" RL-P & Q tuned to 32Hz. I've run them both at that tune and was very happy with SQ and output...

 

[T3mpest 10+ year member]

Good god. The transfer function that is specific to each car will not change no matter what alignment, sub or box you use. Its a scalar that is applied to whatever sub you decide to put in your car.
The anechoic response of any alignment is a good place to start looking for your perfect setup. Once you have them, you can apply said transfer function to your anechoic response and get a somewhat realistic frequency plot for your in car subwoofer.

NOT ONCE did I ever say these graphs were representative of how a sub would perform in car. EVER! These graphs are just a starting point from where a person can apply conditions specific to their application. Again, it is just a starting point comparing different subs.

Edit: This how I have been instructed to go about designing an alignment buy some people much smarter than myself. I am not providing a thread with the end results of any of these alignments in car.

true, if you actually know the basic transfer function of your vehicle you can plan around it.

 

[JonJT 10+ year member]

true, if you actually know the basic transfer function of your vehicle you can plan around it.

exactly, and becasue of that jmanpc's point is irrelevant.

 

[JonJT 10+ year member]

I'd run a sim with the 15" RL-P & Q tuned to 32Hz. I've run them both at that tune and was very happy with SQ and output...

One of the reasons I ran the sim was to get an idea of how much space I'd need to get acceptable performance out of each woofer combination. The 15s require too much space. I need to keep as much space as possible because I'll be moving to and from college by myself. If I was confident a single RL-i10 would satisfy me, I'd go with that!

Once I get this transfer function going I'll have a much better idea of what I want/need.

 

[req 5,000+ posts]

here is a tip.

people in the high ups of competition use math and what not to make ideas on how to begin a box design. once they make it and test it, and sadly hit lower numbers than they had before, they start to modify or rebuild.

i dont know about you, but i know people who have built 20+ enclosures until they were happy. car audio is not all about doing all the math possible until it works, its also about trial and error, because all this crap is speaker\enclosure\car specific, and i dont think you will find many people using all 3 that are the same.

so just go build something that sounds promising, and then, build another one, and then try another one. its not like you will be able to tell with the first box if it boasts the best sound and performance unless you have a basis to compare it to.

so unless you build mutiple enclosures - you dont know what is the best with that speaker anyway.

thats just my 2 cents. i say build it, and it will come.

 

[denim 5,000+ posts]

Either way you go you have a nice set of subs.